Fitting insect mesh with board on board cladding

[eandg]

Hi, starting to batten for board on board larch cladding tomorrow and hit on a bit of an unforeseen issue. I had intended to fit insect mesh as per the video below (from 50 seconds in), with 100mm mesh lapped over my counterbattens. Boards are 150mm wide, 22mm deep with 90mm gaps between back boards. This would mean that there's a gap between the batten and the top board for insects to get in. Any advice for how to deal with?

[jamieled]

I can tell you how we did it, though I'm not going to claim it's the best way.

 

We cut small strips of mesh equal to the width of the gap. Staple one end to the underneath board, then bend the other end round so it forms a sort of roll or cylinder. When the top board gets placed over this it compressed it a bit to fill the gap. Pretty faffy, but we couldn't think of an alternative. It seems to work so far.

[eandg]

13 hours ago, jamieled said:

I can tell you how we did it, though I'm not going to claim it's the best way.

 

We cut small strips of mesh equal to the width of the gap. Staple one end to the underneath board, then bend the other end round so it forms a sort of roll or cylinder. When the top board gets placed over this it compressed it a bit to fill the gap. Pretty faffy, but we couldn't think of an alternative. It seems to work so far.

Thanks Jamie - sounds like bodging the gap is about the best you can do. Will follow your advice so lets hope it works!

[Jenki]

I am planning on using perforated angle strips, the vertical batten holds the strip in place, and the bottom ( perforated section). Covers the batten, counter batten and bottom board, (25 +25+ 22) so an 80mm wide angle will cover all the gaps, you may see a small amount of this trim on the bottom boards. But it will be neat and no faff.

 

Trim

Edited March 27, 2023 by Jenki
Link added

[PlaneIron]

I thought I'd share my approach to wire mesh with board on board cladding. I couldn't find any real detail about this is trada publications or internet. Mesh is held behind the counterbattens or under a batten at the sill level, then folded over the first boards with a couple of staples to hold it in place. Where the mesh would show it's cut away and then the top board holds everything in place. Fairly quick, simple and relatively inexpensive for a roll of stainless mesh.

[PlaneIron]

[PlaneIron]

[Flyingpig]

Hi, thanks for posting these photos, this is just what I need to do with my board on board cladding.... 

 

Question - how did you finisih at top to prevents bugs and allow ventilation? 

 

Cheers 

[Alan Ambrose]

+1 for doing this carefully. We had a mouse last winter and on investigation I found there was no mesh at the bottom of the cladding on our barn conversion. So, a hard job down on my knees for a few days and digging part of the earth away from the brick plinth in parts (the house is on sloping ground). Used ss mesh as images above and also ss brillo pad stuff for smaller holes - as it’s an old barn everything is a bit uneven and all over the place.