Chris Mills Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Moved in to our house in dec.Its not s major project but there is plenty we want to get how we want. We are currently doing a roof lantern in a flat roof which we are going to fit next weds. After that I intend to knock a wall out from the dining room to the room where the roof lantern will be. We have architect drawings and planning for a further extension to the back of the house. I intend to do most of the work myself with the help of my dad who is a carpenter. The wall I knock out obviously needs RSJ to support. I have the architects drawings with the structural calculations which I don't quite understand. Would anybody know what these numbers mean? B1 2/203* 133 UKB 30s. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitpipe Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 Welcome! It's the spec of the dimensions of the beam type - http://www.parkersteel.co.uk/Product/0851205/Universal+Beam/203+X+133+X+30KG+S355J0+Yel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Construction Channel Posted July 26, 2017 Share Posted July 26, 2017 as @Bitpipe said, 203 and 133 are dimensions in mm UKB means Universal Beam (not sure about the K) and the 30 is how many Kg it weighs per meter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMitchells Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 the one thing I learnt when we took out a wall out between our kithen and dining room, was to make sure the RSJ's are in place on the floor before setting up the accro props. it is very difficult to get then in afterwards, espcecially in a small space. sounds an exciting project - welcome to the forum and good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 27, 2017 Share Posted July 27, 2017 11 hours ago, Chris Mills said: Moved in to our house in dec.Its not s major project but there is plenty we want to get how we want. We are currently doing a roof lantern in a flat roof which we are going to fit next weds. After that I intend to knock a wall out from the dining room to the room where the roof lantern will be. We have architect drawings and planning for a further extension to the back of the house. I intend to do most of the work myself with the help of my dad who is a carpenter. The wall I knock out obviously needs RSJ to support. I have the architects drawings with the structural calculations which I don't quite understand. Would anybody know what these numbers mean? B1 2/203* 133 UKB 30s. That's a chunky steel for a load bearing wall - is it over 4m long ..?? I used something slightly larger on one of ours and it was a pig to move - as @TheMitchells say, see if you can get it roughly into place before you put the acro forest in place. alternative is to put it through an outside wall and make good - it becomes a slide through rather than an internal lift if you put it on scaffold outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Mills Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 Yes approx 4m or just under. I recently reinforced a flat roof in prep for roof lanterns. My dad sourced the pair of steels which were approx 2.7m long by 150mm wide and 14mm steel with 8 holes in each. They cost 150quid for the pair. I though that was a tad expensive? He got them from the Forest of Dean where price comp is lower. Anybody know how much roughly the steel in my last post will cost? much appreciate the advice guys chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Thanks @Chris Mills Im struggling to understand how you've got the flat roof reinforcing with those steels - are they new ..? £30 a metre isn't unreasonable for steel. The main 203x133 you mentioned - is that for a single skin wall..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Mills Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 The flat steels were put inbetween the old roof joist and a new one I added at each end of the opening. 6 inch bolts held it in place. The other steel is for an external wall because we are knocking through from an extension into the main house dining room. Thanks for reply Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted July 30, 2017 Share Posted July 30, 2017 Ok so unless the wall is a single skin, a 203x133 isn't going to work ... Ideally you will need a pair of them, and they need to be connected to each other, preferably by welded plates top and bottom as otherwise they will be a pig to keep level and square. Both will need their centre flange in line with the load to stop twisting of the top plates so you're likely to need them spaced by the cavity distance minus 35mm or so to get them lined up correctly. You could go with the outer skin with a slightly smaller depth however that may not work with such a big span, especially if the flat roof is attached to the existing brickwork. Proceed with caution ..! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Mills Posted September 21, 2017 Author Share Posted September 21, 2017 Sorry not been on for a while been busy on the garden and cycling over the alps. So much to do! Got the roof lantern in. Looks good. So much light!! I have now got to knock through from the extension where the the roof lantern is into the dining room. This wall is the external wall of the house. My question is, the architect has said I need padstones 750mm deep?? Ive have got two I beams to sit on each wall skin with the cavity in the middle. He says it's best to make some shuttering in situ and pour the concrete in?? Which seems extremely awkward to me. 750 mm pad stone seems very excessive to me and everyone I've mentioned it to. Feeback would be welcome. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 21, 2017 Share Posted September 21, 2017 Are you sure that's not a mis-type..??? I'd ask a structural engineer about the padstones, as at best I would go for a Naylor 440x215x100 under each end. The rule is that when you draw a line at 45 degrees from the centre of the beam it must pass through the side of the padstone. I would never cast in situ for a steel either as you cannot guarantee the strength - it also takes 28 days to get to full compressive strength so you would be waiting a while to set the beams ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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