Plant Room Cupboard Plans

[PeterW]

If that is a 15mm pipe coming through the wall then it needs a 22mm conduit which any decent SDS will do in about 60 seconds, 10N blocks too..! (Just not padstones..!!!)

 

Drill at 45° from the kitchen side and shove the conduit in and then feed in the pipes and it’s time for tea and biscuits

 

 

Just follow the purple line and job done 

 

[MortarThePoint]

1 minute ago, PeterW said:

If that is a 15mm pipe coming through the wall then it needs a 22mm conduit which any decent SDS will do in about 60 seconds, 10N blocks too..! (Just not padstones..!!!)

 

Drill at 45° from the kitchen side and shove the conduit in and then feed in the pipes and it’s time for tea and biscuits

 

 

Just follow the purple line and job done 

 

I presume you mean drill from the lower left which is the utility.

 

It would be no drama for a few, but having a line of holes at 40mm centres isn't so appealing. I suppose I could stagger them vertically as well to make the hole c/c about 60mm. It's still across about 1.2m of wall if going fully 1:1 radial.

 

Watched some videos of people core drilling at 45 degrees but that's with a pretty beefy jig.

[PeterW]

2 minutes ago, MortarThePoint said:

It would be no drama for a few, but having a line of holes at 40mm centres isn't so appealing

 why not ..?? Don’t need to core drill, big standard SDS is fine.

[MortarThePoint]

6 minutes ago, PeterW said:

 why not ..?? Don’t need to core drill, big standard SDS is fine.

A 25mm SDS bit would leave only 15mm of block between the holes. That's removing 63% of the material. Surely it's not a good idea to weaken a wall to that extent across 1.2m of width.

[PeterW]

Looking at the list how many need to go through the wall..?? And why have you got a mix of 10/15mm to basins ..? Make them all 10mm..!

[MortarThePoint]

2 minutes ago, PeterW said:

Looking at the list how many need to go through the wall..?? And why have you got a mix of 10/15mm to basins ..? Make them all 10mm..!

Yes, I expect 10mm would be fine for basin cold as well as hot. Also, should be OK to loo cisterns. I think a big flush these days is something like 6L and 10mm pipe can pass that over 10m at 1.5bar in 1 minute.

 

How do you feel about what I should do in terms of wall and floor finish. What's the norm there? Bare blockwork feels a bit unfinished

[TerryE]

4 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

How do you feel about what I should do in terms of wall and floor finish. What's the norm there? Bare blockwork feels a bit unfinished

Wow, that's a bit off topic.  Time for another thread maybe?

 

4 hours ago, PeterW said:

Don’t need to core drill, big standard SDS is fine.

 

We had  a 1m 15mm + 22mm SDS drills which we used for this purpose.  If we could drill through 2-300 year-old hardened Limestone then going through modern low density concrete block work would a doodle.  I once drill some 22mm holes for 15mm on the diagonal and ended up burying the 22mm drill to the chuck.  I could tell I was close one the other side so ended up using a 4ft piece of rebar to pop out the facing stone on the far side. 🤣

 

The big advantage of having your rising main and manifolds placed centrally is that its central.  😁  If it's too late, then que sera, sera.  Remember this for your next build. 

 

Your layout in your earlier post might be a compromise, but I would avoid daisy-chaining manifolds as this can really screw up dynamically balancing flows.  I would personally take the utility and main manifolds in 22mm copper directly of the CW and HW risers (with isolation valves).  The FB manifold is a toss up but again it makes sense taking it direct off the risers maybe in 15mm.  @Nickfromwales what do you think?  

[MortarThePoint]

8 hours ago, TerryE said:

I would avoid daisy-chaining manifolds as this can really screw up dynamically balancing flows

By that I assume you mean turning down the flow on loo cisterns etc so showers don't get starved.

 

I like the idea of being able to isolate the family bathroom. A conventional plumbing setup wouldn't have remote balancing. I could use a pair of lever isolation valves for the family bathroom.

[Nickfromwales]

Fully loaded / no satellite manifolds is my go-to for every plumbing installation we do. I won’t deviate from that.

 

I would drill at around a 60° angle and go for 5x 52mm core holes, with the holes ending up tight against the underside of the slab, and insert 50mm waste pipe into each hole as a sleeve. You’d leave a pier of 150mm of block remaining between each hole for ‘structural integrity’.
You’ll get a lot of individual runs through the 50mm sleeve and it’ll be easier to drill fewer, larger holes, so maybe drill 5 holes.

 

Use a 16mm or 18mm x 1000mm drill bit to get the angle correct, using it as a pilot / guide only, and have a couple of attempts ( if required ) until you get the entry and exit holes exactly where you want them. Remove the drill bit from the drill and re-insert it into the best hole, leaving it protruding by 3-400mm or more; eg so it gives you a line to use as a visual angle finder whilst you’re core drilling. You then just keep the drill at the matching angle whilst drilling, so you don’t go astray. 
 

Yes, starting off the core drill at an angle will be a bastard, so, you get a piece of 7x2” timber and pre-drill into it with a wood hole saw, 5x 52mm @ 60° and affix it to the wall. Start the 5 core holes off, drilling 100mm or so into the block for each hole, them stop and remove the timber guide. It’ll make drilling the rest of the way through easier as the dust / debris can fall out sooner.

Bingo bango. 
 

When laying the pipes through, strategise installing the 10mm pipes first, 2 or 3 per hole, so they can be dressed in into clips. Then have the 15mm pipes lay atop those to make the bottleneck of pipes on the vertical wall better organised / flush to the vertical wall (as the bigger pipes will have the longer bending radius ). 

[TerryE]

8 hours ago, MortarThePoint said:

By that I assume you mean turning down the flow on loo cisterns etc so showers don't get starved.

 

I have a single central HW and two central CW (high flow and low flow) manifolds.  The HW / HF CW  are loop fed (see Nick's posted example of how to do this) to prevent running a bath or high-flow shower "stealing" flow from another high flow fitting further down the manifold.  This can occur if you have a single end-feed.  It can be worse if you start daisy chaining manifolds.

Edited January 30, 2023 by TerryE