Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 For a faster response time, could you; drill out a 15/22mm copper reducer (with a 15mm drill) so it slides along the 15mm pipe. Solder it in position and slip the probe end in the gap? You'd be almost "cowling" the probe and keeping the heat "in". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 3 minutes ago, Onoff said: For a faster response time, could you; drill out a 15/22mm copper reducer (with a 15mm drill) so it slides along the 15mm pipe. Solder it in position and slip the probe end in the gap? You'd be almost "cowling" the probe and keeping the heat "in". The heat may melt the SPEEDFIT ya tool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 19 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: The heat may melt the SPEEDFIT ya tool Thought you were putting a bit of copper in.....or was that next time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Not on this job, did you see where I'd have had to get to, drain down and check for leaks . If someone told me it couldn't be done then that's different. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 So this is going on the "hot" to the bathroom. Where's that hot coming from? Thinking I might pilfer the idea to switch my mirror demister. I've got two "hots". The dedicated feed from the shower pump then one from the cylinder that splits to feed bath and basin. Almost wants two set ups I'm thinking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 That's why I had to put it where I did ( scroll back to see where ). That 22mm reduced to 15 to pick up the basin, then the pipes I brought up do the shower and the bath. Basically anything that draws hot will trigger the demister and it will stay on for about 45 mins after hot was drawn last. I drew hot through with the multimeter connected until the reading bottomed out at around 4.5k then timed it cooling back to ~8.5k, which took nearly an hour. Wrapped it all in rockwool to keep the residual heat there as long as possible to save having to use an overrun timer. Should be sufficient but the timer can be bolted on later if required. NOTE: The customer refuses to have a fan, and I've fitted a bigger window with huge trickle vent which they basically never shut fully ( left on night latch minimum ). That's why the demister and how it operates is so critical. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 The Spanish supplier of that kit you're ordering came back to me: "Hello retains the setting you haveThe I 108 works as a comparatorWhen the voltage returns, check the potentiometer settingAnd the tension of the NTCDepending on the setting and temperature you will connect the relay regards" So all good! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 On 10/07/2017 at 19:38, Onoff said: The Spanish supplier of that kit you're ordering came back to me: "Hello retains the setting you haveThe I 108 works as a comparatorWhen the voltage returns, check the potentiometer settingAnd the tension of the NTCDepending on the setting and temperature you will connect the relay regards" So all good! Sorry, only now seeing this. ? Cheers for the effort, I'll order that this week so it's ready for the second fix electrics ? Bingo bango. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 6 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said: Sorry, only now seeing this. ? Cheers for the effort, I'll order that this week so it's ready for the second fix electrics ? Bingo bango. De nada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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