CC45 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) Dear all, A small number of challenges for a Tuesday evening...... Challenge No 1 Picture 1 The picture below is our fire place The gap between the timber frame and the brick wall is the cavity, so any suggestions how I seal this up so that its (permanently) airtight. Would like to achieve below 2 on the airtight test. I assume some sort of timber bonded in place but I am open to any advice. Challenge number 2 Picture 2 how do I make the chimney 'ceiling' airtight (obviously not the flue) - I know now that I should have poured a slab with the flue set into it rather than use the lintels - hindsight is a great thing, shame you only acquire it after the event :-( Maybe 'plaster' it? Maybe a neat job would be to somehow fill it all in, board & then skim it all? - would look neater. Challenge No 3 Picture 3 On a similar line, the picture below shows a gap that I need to close up. The house has overhangs on both sides - looks nice on plans but they need sealing from the rest of the house since in effect they are external space. I was going to screw some supports either side and then some 1/2" ply to close the gap - would some sealing tape then do the trick with regards to airtightness? Tempted to use some silicone in there as well just for a backup. Challenge No 4 Picture 4 This is the void below our first floor - it needs insulating (otherwise it will be a condensation trap) - but how much? I've got some 140 / 150mm celotex about but its a pain to cut and install & I'd rather send it back for a refund. The other option is to use some 3" celotex (a few sheets kicking about) or since I've got to sound proof it all do I just continue the soundproofing down over the wood? This would be the easiest but I'd rather do the correct thing than something easy! Final challenge! Picture 5 Laid the UFH a week ago - the design required some cutting out - I was going to foam these when I suddenly wondered if it would react with the pipe work (Wunda pipe) - am I being OTT or should I play it safe & put something around them first. I'd prefer that each room screed is separate - hence why I want to fill the cuts up. Cheers for any help / guidance. CC Edited May 31, 2016 by CC45 Picture uploads Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Declan52 Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Pic 1. you will need to fill the gap first with maybe more insulation or even timber. To seal it you will need to use an airtight tape like you would use to bond to block work. If stuck to the bricks and the timber it can flex. Cover with plasterboard and skim it. You will always have a crack here as the timber and bricks will shrink and move differently. Pic2. If it fits you could slip in a 65mm wide concrete head cut to suit length wise.http://www.raygrahams.com/products/132974-slimline-pre-set-concrete-head-100-x-65mm.asp Pic 3. As you say ply with tape but sealing up between the joists won't be easy. Will be a time consuming job to cut all the shapes out. Pic 4. Return the celotex and buy some acoustic rock wool to suit your depth. Pic 5. You can wedge some sheet insulation off cuts in. It's only to keep the screeds separate. Don't forget to continue the edge strip down so the Screed is not against the wood. Don't want to be heating the wall up to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trw144 Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Picture 3 - do you not have a "tony tray" wrapped around the end of the joists and therefore making that area airtight? I have similar overhangs and was thinking of adding insulation into the space Edited June 1, 2016 by Trw144 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Hi Declan 52 & Trw144, Pic 1 - tape is one option I hadn't thought of - any advice with regards to which one? I was going to tape all joints iin the VCL anyway so its not really extra work. Pic 2 - and then skim the underneath to seal the chimney 'ceiling' I assume? Pic 3 - as I thought. Having insulated all the frame (which took ages) I expected that to be time consuming. There is a tony tray but since that overhang is ~ 4ft there are taped joins in there & I suspect it won't be airtight & I want a backup just in case. The insulation is under some dormers - the rest of it is under the roof so no point in insulating really. Pic 4 - will that provide adequate insulation? Pic 5 - how much pressure does the screed exert sideways? Thanks for the suggestions CC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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