Site Prep while moving Driveway?

[mike2016]

I have an option of prepping my side garden site for a new house while moving the driveway out front to align with the old house. While doing the driveway I could scrape back the topsoil from the side garden just up to where the foundations will be and cover with MOT. I'm probably going to pave the new house driveway once all is finished but I'm unsure to what depth I should scrape back to save on work later on? Should I scape to the same depth I'm doing for the new driveway on the old house next door or keep it higher than that? Trying to save work while I've a digger onsite and have grab hire coming anyway but don't want to shoot myself in the foot either! Thanks. 

[Temp]

Yeah we laid a MOT "road". In our case the site was on a slight slope and clay soil.

 

I would actually dig it out as you would for a driveway base or perhaps a bit deeper to allow another layer of MOT to be added before the final surface at the end. That's because we had quite a bit of soil migrate onto the MOT during construction. 

 

Beware MOT type 1 is not guaranteed to be water permeable. Ours was crushed limestone and the dust on it set up like concrete. I think you need MOT type 3 (?) If you want/need it to be permeable to meet a planning condition.

[Temp]

Oh and if you plan any flower beds or lawn avoid putting hadcore there as it can be difficult to remove later.

[ToughButterCup]

29 minutes ago, Temp said:

...I think you need MOT type 3 (?) If you want/need it to be permeable to meet a planning condition.

 

Yes, MoT 3 for a permeable substrate.

[Thorfun]

29 minutes ago, Temp said:

Beware MOT type 1 is not guaranteed to be water permeable. Ours was crushed limestone and the dust on it set up like concrete. I think you need MOT type 3 (?) If you want/need it to be permeable to meet a planning condition.

we used virgin type 3 for our driveway sub-base to make it permeable. bloody expensive! if I knew then what I know now I would've used crushed concrete with reduced fines. still permeable (afaik and the groundworkers used it as backfill around our basement so I hope it is!) but a lot cheaper.

[ToughButterCup]

20 minutes ago, Thorfun said:

...

I would've used crushed concrete with reduced fines. 

...

 

I wouldn't know the difference between crushed concrete with reduced fines, and crushed concrete.

( Isn't that -reduced fines-  75mm to dust ?) 

[mike2016]

Thanks All! Will consider all - there's only 9 meters from road to front of new house and I've read don't do permeable within 3 meters of house - will decide which subbase I'll use / where to avoid issues later. I'll have a bit of garden to one side so good idea about leaving that alone - will stick the portaloo on top of that!! Cheers. 

[Thorfun]

28 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:

 

I wouldn't know the difference between crushed concrete with reduced fines, and crushed concrete.

( Isn't that -reduced fines-  75mm to dust ?) 

yes, I believe it is.

 

you can also get crushed concrete 'cobbles' at some places https://robinsofherstmonceux.co.uk/supplies/aggregates/

[Temp]

1 hour ago, mike2016 said:

I've read don't do permeable within 3 meters of house

 

Don't think that can be right or you couldn't have a lawn that close.

 

Think that might be referring to a soakaway. Those are meant to be 5m away.

[mike2016]

Hopefully but I think a garden drains very different to a permeable man made driveway. I can see a lot of water pooling very quickly against the foundation especially as I've a slope down to the house. I trust nature, not artificial pathways (at least not when I build them!).