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Cedral Click going up (at last!)


NSS

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Well I've finally started putting the Marley Cedral Click cladding up and thought I'd post a shot of progress. Really pleased with how it looks and seems very easy to use.

 

IMG_20170516_1655043.jpg

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6 minutes ago, Pete said:

Nice job. like the way full pieces sit under the windows

Not quite, the next board up will need a thin strip under the cill, but the cills are easy to remove and screw back on afterwards.

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Slow progress due to a combination of learning curve around window profiles and limited time on site, but it's moving in the right direction.

 

IMG_20170520_1326460.jpg

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30 minutes ago, NSS said:

Thanks Barney, the timber cladding is Thermowood treated with a clear UV satin varnish. 

 

Ah thanks interesting. I've got s sample of Ash thermowood sat on the coffee table at the moment and I rather like the look of it. 

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A couple more pics showing window profile detail. Not sure why the cladding looks blue in the 2nd pic. It's all in fact cream white.

IMG_20170525_1756442.jpg

IMG_20170525_1756332.jpg

Edited by NSS
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 months later...

Hi, very interesting post. I am looking to instal cedral click but like you have a very limited reveal. Can you explain how you dealt with yours as you look to have a similar very small reveal. I am finding none of the off the shelf trims will work for me. Hope you can help. Simon

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1 hour ago, Gadget Buster said:

Hi, very interesting post. I am looking to instal cedral click but like you have a very limited reveal. Can you explain how you dealt with yours as you look to have a similar very small reveal. I am finding none of the off the shelf trims will work for me. Hope you can help. Simon

Hi Simon @Gadget Buster, we're using Marley Operal board in the reveals. It's available in the same colours as the Click boards but only in the smooth finish (which is fine for us as we have the smooth Click). You can order it in various widths but we've bought 300mm width and will just rip it down to suit. Let me know if I can provide any additional info. Cheers, NSS

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7 hours ago, NSS said:

Hi Simon @Gadget Buster, we're using Marley Operal board in the reveals. It's available in the same colours as the Click boards but only in the smooth finish (which is fine for us as we have the smooth Click). You can order it in various widths but we've bought 300mm width and will just rip it down to suit. Let me know if I can provide any additional info. Cheers, NSS

Thanks for your reply, i was more concerned with the mechanical fixing of your reveal. The standard way the reveal is constructed on their installation document just would not work for me as i can't batten the reveal as it is on about 10mm deep. Did you use a bought profile from Marley to finish off you window edges or did you buy from a different supplier an L shaped profiles to finish off the corners. thanks for your help

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1 hour ago, Gadget Buster said:

Thanks for your reply, i was more concerned with the mechanical fixing of your reveal. The standard way the reveal is constructed on their installation document just would not work for me as i can't batten the reveal as it is on about 10mm deep. Did you use a bought profile from Marley to finish off you window edges or did you buy from a different supplier an L shaped profiles to finish off the corners. thanks for your help

Sorry, misunderstood your query. The profiles we used around the reveal are the Marley Click external corner profile (on the vertical sides) and the lintel profile on the top. This image shows the corner profile returning into the reveal. You don't batten the reveal itself, the profile just attaches to the vertical batten placed flush to the reveal and then the clips for securing the Click boards fix through the profile into that vertical batten.

IMG_20171101_0933387.jpg

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On 01/11/2017 at 09:43, NSS said:

We'll then use the Operal board to fill the strip between the corner profile and the window frame.

Hi thanks for your help so far. I have drawn a scale drawing of what i think my installation  might look like. do you think this would work? are the cedral click boards made of something that i can router? are they made from a carcinogenic material at all? Please see the attached picture and ask any questions you like. So the part in question is the cedral board that i have coloured yellow, i am thinking that if i set the batten slightly back from the face nearest the french door (by about 6mm) then that will give me enough room to have a reveal, that would mean though that i would need to router the back of the cedral lap slightly so it fits in the gap. Do you think this would be possible. I dont think i would be able to instal the corner profile before i put the reveal board in but i could use color coded nails to fix the reveal and corner profile on that side and then fix it normally on the front.

Thanks again

IMG_20171103_074821.thumb.jpg.e23fd09a0af02f3787920e4050cc81f1.jpg

Edited by Gadget Buster
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8 hours ago, Gadget Buster said:

Hi thanks for your help so far. I have drawn a scale drawing of what i think my installation  might look like. do you think this would work? are the cedral click boards made of something that i can router? are they made from a carcinogenic material at all? Please see the attached picture and ask any questions you like. So the part in question is the cedral board that i have coloured yellow, i am thinking that if i set the batten slightly back from the face nearest the french door (by about 6mm) then that will give me enough room to have a reveal, that would mean though that i would need to router the back of the cedral lap slightly so it fits in the gap. Do you think this would be possible. I dont think i would be able to instal the corner profile before i put the reveal board in but i could use color coded nails to fix the reveal and corner profile on that side and then fix it normally on the front.

Thanks again

IMG_20171103_074821.thumb.jpg.e23fd09a0af02f3787920e4050cc81f1.jpg

Wouldn't like to say whether or not you could router the operal board, but it's only 9mm thick (ie thinner than the Click boards). I guess you could in theory construct as per your drawing, but you'd have to fit the reveal and corner profile before the Click boards, which (from my experience) would not be ideal. Why not contact Marley. They have technical people who should be better able to advise on the best solution for your situation.

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18 hours ago, NSS said:

Wouldn't like to say whether or not you could router the operal board, but it's only 9mm thick (ie thinner than the Click boards). I guess you could in theory construct as per your drawing, but you'd have to fit the reveal and corner profile before the Click boards, which (from my experience) would not be ideal. Why not contact Marley. They have technical people who should be better able to advise on the best solution for your situation.

Thanks for that, are you saying that you installed your corner profiles after you fitted the click boards?

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58 minutes ago, Gadget Buster said:

Thanks for that, are you saying that you installed your corner profiles after you fitted the click boards?

No, the corner profile must go on before the Click boards, as explained earlier in the thread, as the clips into which the boards mount will need to be screwed through the profile into the batten behind.

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  • 1 month later...

Well I went with the Cedral click system.

My first part was the front of the house where SHMBO wanted it erected vertically. PITA!!!!

The boards themselves scratch *so* easily (touch up paint purchased) ; also cutting them no matter what with always seems to chip them.

 

SO!; I am using a lot of 'connection profile' to cover up the cut ends (also allows for the expansion gap).

 

The rear of the build I decided to give myself a break and mount horizontally.

My only real issue is above windows/doorways you must have ventilation . The 'ventilation strip' is the thinnest piece of metal ever and can easily be bent/warped.

I use the 'symmetric return profile' for my edges of windows/doors because it's chunky and looks good. Tempted to use that for above windows/doors but just drill (hopefully!) accurate holes along it's entire length (PITA again!); then it will serve 2 purposes and (I think) look far neater.

 

Anyone else 'improvised' with this system??

 

We all like photo's :-); so here's the front with the pita vertical cladding.

 

 

IMG_6361.jpg

Edited by pocster
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5 hours ago, pocster said:

Well I went with the Cedral click system.

My first part was the front of the house where SHMBO wanted it erected vertically. PITA!!!!

The boards themselves scratch *so* easily (touch up paint purchased) ; also cutting them no matter what with always seems to chip them.

 

SO!; I am using a lot of 'connection profile' to cover up the cut ends (also allows for the expansion gap).

 

The rear of the build I decided to give myself a break and mount horizontally.

My only real issue is above windows/doorways you must have ventilation . The 'ventilation strip' is the thinnest piece of metal ever and can easily be bent/warped.

I use the 'symmetric return profile' for my edges of windows/doors because it's chunky and looks good. Tempted to use that for above windows/doors but just drill (hopefully!) accurate holes along it's entire length (PITA again!); then it will serve 2 purposes and (I think) look far neater.

 

Anyone else 'improvised' with this system??

 

We all like photo's :-); so here's the front with the pita vertical cladding.

 

 

IMG_6361.jpg

What are you cutting it with? We used a special fibre cement blade in the chop saw and didn't have any issue with chipping (nor scratching). Also, you're cladding before fitting windows and doors?

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22 minutes ago, NSS said:

What are you cutting it with? We used a special fibre cement blade in the chop saw and didn't have any issue with chipping (nor scratching). Also, you're cladding before fitting windows and doors?

Yep . Read a wide variety of reasons to clad before/after windows/doors . So had to choose !!

will try a fibre cement angle grinder blade . But of course no matter how good the cut it never matches the ‘ machined’ end - that does bug me ! . Hence lots of trim to make sharp edges !

Edited by pocster
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9 hours ago, NSS said:

I guess the fact that you're using grey boards means the cut ends show more than they do on our off white ones.

Yeah . You never think of these things though until you start installation. Also I noticed in a mock install video his door and window placements just happen to line up perfectly with full board heights ! . So no horizontal cuts ! . I’ve got some long runs above multiple openings so do have to cut full length boardsalong the 2.4 metre edge; chop saw no good for that :-(

still ! It does look smart . Once I’ve got a bit further with the rear I’ll stick some more photos up

 

cheers 

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