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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

To jump on the back of this thread...just installed a Geberit WC frame in my downstairs WC. I did it the wrong way round and built a tight framework first to shoehorn the frame into and then fix, but it works. The only thing is I haven't yet fitted the top 'rail' (Which can be seen on the LHS) - anyone know if this is essential? As far as I can see it doesn't do all that much and prodtrudes out the front by 2-3mm, thereby pushing the backer board off the wall slightly when I fit that, so I was thinking of leaving it out.

Thoughts please? 

 

Edit: the 'rail' is the blue bit sitting on the floor leaning against the wall, for clarity.

 

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Edited by Rick734
Posted

It does diddly squat really, but I fit them and then drill down through the wood with a 3mm drill bit, into the far left and far right ends, and fit 50x 5.0 woodscrews in to give me timber > metal fixing points. The point load rating you should be looking for is based on 80 stone of (impact) bodyweight iirc, eg someone falling / stumbling backwards and landing on the pan; possibly to compensate for the varying size and shape of the general population and encompasses some headroom for someone who likes a pie or two (or seven) 'coming in for landing' at too high a rate of knots.

 

I take the cisterns out, clips are quick-release both sides, use a wood chisel or similar. Then I drill a few holes through the steel frame, more to the top to counter where all the loads are most problematic, and the screw from the inside of the frame to the side timbers; I fortify this with some no nails or CT1, whichever is in the gun.

 

Is that a bit OTT, prob, have I ever had someone come back and say it moved, never; and I've fitted LOADS of them.

Posted
23 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

It does diddly squat really, but I fit them and then drill down through the wood with a 3mm drill bit, into the far left and far right ends, and fit 50x 5.0 woodscrews in to give me timber > metal fixing points.

 

Thanks @Nickfromwales - super helpful. I think in this case I'll leave them off then - gives me 'access' from the front to the fixing points should I ever need them.

 

Added some Sikaflex EBT and 3 chunky screws down each side, let's see what happens! Hopefully never need to get it out. Great point about the demountable cistern as well - had no idea it was so simple to remove...

  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Rick734 said:

Added some Sikaflex EBT

Yup, great stuff. Happy days.

 

10 minutes ago, Rick734 said:

had no idea it was so simple to remove...

Just make sure you get the lower tab into the correct one of the two slots available when you refit it ;) 

Posted
25 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Yup, great stuff. Happy days.

Saw you mentioned it in a previous post and it was on offer in Screwfix so... 🤷

25 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

 

Just make sure you get the lower tab into the correct one of the two slots available when you refit it ;) 

Aha will check that, thanks 👍 - don't remember seeing a lower tab so will check

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, Rick734 said:

don't remember seeing a lower tab so will check

It's under the flush water outlet, but if you fit it into the wrong tab you're then off vertical. You'll see it, but may be dependant on the frame so take with el-pincho-da-salta.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
21 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

It's under the flush water outlet, but if you fit it into the wrong tab you're then off vertical. You'll see it, but may be dependant on the frame so take with el-pincho-da-salta.

 

Thanks, got it. Don't think I ever took it out of that noggin (just leant the top half back) so should still be correct. Now onto boarding...

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Squirt some EBT or mastic onto the frame so the plasterboard is bonded tight to the metal. If you’ve installed it spot on then run a spirit level across and slowly move it down the wood work to identity if there are voids between the level and the frame. That’s where you’d want to put a continuous line of goop.

 

When you crank the pan fixings up there’s a LOT of force back onto the tiles and plasterboard where the lower edge of the pan meets it, so think logically of what could move under the weight of you dropping off U571 and make sure there’s no gaps ;)  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thanks for that @Nickfromwales - apologies for the delay! 

 

I've got some STS 12.5mm insulation board - would you normally ply behind that board as well? It does have extremely high compressive strength but maybe not so much 'bending' strength, if that makes sense...

Posted
3 hours ago, Rick734 said:

Thanks for that @Nickfromwales - apologies for the delay! 

 

I've got some STS 12.5mm insulation board - would you normally ply behind that board as well? It does have extremely high compressive strength but maybe not so much 'bending' strength, if that makes sense...

Don’t fit that where the WC frame / pan is going 👎. Use plasterboard or cement board, bonded to the frame (unless there’s zero gaps). 

  • Thanks 1

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