Radian Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 I hooked up a power logger to my fridge and soon discovered that the light was permanently on inside! Doh! How many people think to check this I wonder? Anyway, I can't see any way to repair this without extracting the built-in fridge from its cabinet. Just wondering if anyone has experience... It seems this is a replacement part: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Even if you wanted to bodge in a different switch, you are not going to get at any of the wiring without removing the fridge from the cabinet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 It's strange anyway. The replacement part above described as "K4663X0GB/42 Switch-Element" is just a dumb cam wheel with spring that presses in a button hidden within the recessed part. Well wort a tenner plus postage and a 10 day wait 😖 Although Mr Jeremy Clynes - London - 20th Feb 2013 thinks: Quote "Ransoms was the cheapest for this part Thought I would have to take the Fridge to bits, but found this switch clips in from inside the fridge, just a 5 minute job !!!" The real switch lies out of sight. And has terminals with wires etc. Brilliant. Can't believe a vendor of spare parts calls themselves 'Ransoms'. Genius. And I never bodge anything thank you very much. 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 I would take the fridge out and find out exactly what has failed before ordering parts. On the subject of bodging, there is a time and a place. I was asked to look at a failed brake light switch in a friends old Peugeot. If you laid on your back with your head down by the pedals you could look up and see it but no way reach it to change it without taking half the dash apart. But I saw an easy way to fabricate a new bracket to mount an alternative brake light switch where it could be accessed. That is what I would have done if it was my car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 Been in that position and had the blood pool in my head on a number of occasions 😝 A stupid place to put a relay with a crappy connector (under the dash, not my head). Yes as much as I'd like to get it all done in one extraction by having the parts already, I don't think I'm going to be able to this time as I can't even find anyone showing the business end of the light switch. Lots of things called Switch-Element but no part number or photo. At least two listed for my fridge. This may turn out to be a job for the 3D printer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpmiller Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 surely there's more lieklyhood of the switch being faulty than the lump of plastic? a pair of trim tools or butter knives should ease that bit out and let you see the contacts behind, I'd hope /or replace the bulb with an LED one and ignore the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: surely there's more lieklyhood of the switch being faulty than the lump of plastic? Not necessarily. There is one common design of pull switch operated fan heater, where the pull cord pulls on a plastic "see saw" pivoted in the middle and the other end pushes on a switch. the plastic part is a rubbish design, not strong enough and if you pull too hard it breaks in the middle. I have replaced a couple with a replacement sawn and filed from a sheet of metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radian Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 1 hour ago, dpmiller said: surely there's more lieklyhood of the switch being faulty than the lump of plastic? a pair of trim tools or butter knives should ease that bit out and let you see the contacts behind, I'd hope /or replace the bulb with an LED one and ignore the problem... It doesn't respond well to being prised out. I think the aperture is too small to allow an feasible switch body with de-mountable wring contacts to come through anyway. It looks big in the photo but measures just 10mm x 30mm and the plunger for the switch is innermost (where the aperture tapers down) so there's plenty more hiding behind the cam. Funny you should mention using an LED - that's what I put in there years ago. The original bulb was 15W IIRC but the smallest LED I could get to replace it was 3W. Good job too because I have no idea how many years it has been stuck on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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