Ramaya Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 Recently moved in a 1930's Upper Villa with a converted Attic (c. 2006). The size of the property is about 96m2 and is located in Edinburgh. Cavity wall stone exterior. I am looking on some advice on how to improve the thermal efficiency gradually as I go through renovating different areas of the property. It is a long term project. Current situation: - Attic conversion is insulated behind the stud walls and inside the eaves it is insulated in the floor area rather than the pitched room (wool on the floor area, kingspan between the studs) . No breathable membrane has been installed as far as I'm aware. - 3 fire places in total 2 of which have been sealed with vents at the bottom (not sure if these can be removed), 3rd has a gas fire installed into it. - A mixture of sliding and reversible old double glazed windows with pour seals. In my first steps I am going to remodel the Attic, mainly cosmetic but I can potentially look into more insulation if needed. I am also considering replacing all the windows. Would really appreciate some advice from the experts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramaya Posted January 21, 2022 Author Share Posted January 21, 2022 Any ideas ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 What is an "upper villa"? A flat or maisonette? General pictures of building and which bit is yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramaya Posted February 4, 2022 Author Share Posted February 4, 2022 Hi, it is a maisonette, see attached photos. It is the upper flat plus an attic conversion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProDave Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 Well your only options are internal insulation. What you have in the loft bit is so poorly detailed it is nowhere near as effective as it should be. Loads of air gaps for the heat to bypass the insulation for example. What is behind the plasterboard in the sloping bits? if that's not up to standard it could be a lot of work to re do it properly. It all depends how much time and effort you want to spend and how much disruption and making good afterwards you are prepared to accept. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted February 4, 2022 Share Posted February 4, 2022 I agree with @ProDave. Insulation in the eaves is simple, foam those gaps and add as much insulation as you can, add as much to the floor of that bit as well. With the sloping ceilings you could either remove the plasterboard and add to what’s there already or simply add insulated plasterboard to what’s there already. However if the original insulation is as poor as the stuff in the eaves, removing the plasterboard will give you the chance to make it better, foam gaps, add more then plasterboard and skim. I am very sure you can improve on those windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ramaya Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 Insulation between the rafters is 80mm PIR followed by 25mm PIR sheet running perpendicular to the rafters followed by plaster board. No Vapour barrier. STUD walls are the same. I can easily go behind the STUD walls and feel the gaps with foam. The sloped spaces is a different story as it needs to be fully stripped out. Rafters are 130mm deep so keeping 50mm above for airflow. I have ripped the bathroom off as I am planning on installing a new Velux (photos below). When i redo the bathroom I am thinking of using Vapour barrier around it. Also will create some cupboards into the eaves by introducing a new STUD wall at 900mm height from the rafters and taking 3 STUDS out of the original one essentially creating the same gap as the existing door. This will be insulated properly. 100mm PIR, 25mm PIR + Vapour barrier before plasterboard. I'm trying to be realistic with what I can achieve.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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