PeterW Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Lintel spaces can be done with a 600mm lintel leaving a 300mm gap if it's straight on so you shouldn't need to close it off. Also consider using rest bends at the bottom of the main stack and a Y branch to get this into the main run - using a Y with a 22.5 degree bend and not bedding it in concrete may allow it to move. It also creates 3 joins that should be where it's smoothest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNA Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Hi Peter. I was thinking more about how to close up the holes in the walls for them to be vermin proof etc. Can't think of much else except cement based board bonded onto the blockwork or something. Or next option would be to build a short section of pipe into the wall with connectors both sides to allow it to flex. Not sure if I can use rest bends now either Peter as I need to get the rodding points through to the outside. Several of my risers will sit right above the main line out of the building so I was planning to use a 45 branch 45 bend and a settlement coupler to exit the floor beam blockwork - like those below Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Can you move the main line 8" across ...?? Put the 45 into the Y and they will run parallel but 8" apart. Using a Y to drop into a run is not good practice as you get a "pile up" at the point of the drop and the water can go over the top of it. Those vertical movement joints are a waste of money - you won't get that much settlement in a B&B house floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNA Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Thanks Peter. This one always catches me out as I'm always concious of keeping lines straight through to make rodding easier. So laying the 45 Y on its side I could then revert to a rest bend to come into it. I did think about those settlement filltings Peter as if my building moves 150mm I won't be worrying about the drainage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNA Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 (edited) Hi Peter. So here's my proposed layout. Any thoughts would be appreciated guys as meeting BCO this afternoon - foul drain in blue only as I am still thinking about surface water as have to use a 6m3 attenuation tank - still working out where it should best go Final_revised_cad_drawing_8116 REVISED DRAINAGE markup for BEAM and BLOCK option Test .pdf Edited May 30, 2017 by DNA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Stack in the family room doesn't line up under the ensuite..? I would get rid of a lot of those rodding points as they aren't needed - I would run the kitchen side foul drain outside the building until you get to the garage then turn it under the garage (11 degree bend) and then join at an IC there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DNA Posted May 30, 2017 Share Posted May 30, 2017 Well spotted Peter, I was moving the ensuite to make it easier for my initial drainage plan as ensuite and dressing room are pretty interchangable right now. I was interested in you view on the garge as well as I wasn't sure how I felt about an outside drainage line coming back in if you follow me. I was also trying to keep all of the drainage inside as the outside path is going to be full of services / rainwater and if the engineers has his way a great big 600mm dia twin wall pipe to act as a tank. So here's an updated version - its getting simpler now which is good. Ive kept the main lines inside but do you think we can get rid of any more rodding points? Ensuite lines up now too!Final_revised_cad_drawing_8116 REVISED DRAINAGE markup for BEAM and BLOCK option Test2 .pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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