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A few questions including the obligatory plastic vs copper


Crofter

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22 minutes ago, Triassic said:

Where you flush the loo or turn on a bathroom tap in our soon to be demolished house to shower slows to a dribble!

 

Must be an easier way to fix it than knocking the whole house down!

 

What's the advantage of 10mm by the way? Other than getting hot water to the basin slightly quicker.

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22 minutes ago, Crofter said:

 

Must be an easier way to fix it than knocking the whole house down!

 

What's the advantage of 10mm by the way? Other than getting hot water to the basin slightly quicker.

 

Hot gets to taps quicker, cold feed to WC is slightly slower so less noise. 10mm is much easier to thread through to end points too - just have to watch out as I've never found a 10mm to 1/2" tap connector so you have to step back up to connect in 15mm

 

 

I should do my research better ...!! Hand tightened 10mm Hep2O to 1/2" tap connector ... http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/hep-o-fittings-c653/hep2o-wavin-hepworth-hep2o-polybutylene-hand-titan-tap-connector-pp21258

Edited by PeterW
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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

 

Hot gets to taps quicker, cold feed to WC is slightly slower so less noise. 10mm is much easier to thread through to end points too - just have to watch out as I've never found a 10mm to 1/2" tap connector so you have to step back up to connect in 15mm

 

 

I should do my research better ...!! Hand tightened 10mm Hep2O to 1/2" tap connector ... http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/pipe-fittings-c433/hep-o-fittings-c653/hep2o-wavin-hepworth-hep2o-polybutylene-hand-titan-tap-connector-pp21258

 

I had wondered about noise, but was sure that fast flow in a small pipe would actually be worse? But I suppose it's the fill rate of the cistern that's the cuplrit really, not the noise in the pipe.

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16 hours ago, Crofter said:

So this whole balanced feed thing...

Does the mixer shower need a dedicated cold supply? I hadn't realised or planned for that- it will be much easier to have the single cold feed as planned, so the WC and basin would tee off it. Will this cause problems?

It depends on what the difference is between your incoming mains pressure ( static ) and the pressure of the PRedV. 

If for eg the supply is giving you 4 bar and the PRedV is set to 3.5 bar then there's little to worry about, and preventing damage to the UVC from back-flow ( pressure ) from mixer taps can simply be dealt with by fitting a 22mm single check NRV on the DHW outlet of the UVC. That's applicable if you choose NOT to fit a second PRedV at the stopcock, so will have an potentially unbalanced system. 

NOTE : UVC manufacturers will stipulate all this in their respective MI's so this isn't a topic for choice, were just discussing differing ways of satisfying those requirements ;)

 

If you have multiple WC's then it's worth the effort of taking the cold feed from the unrestricted cold main ( so directly after the stopcock and supply NRV ) and, if the static incoming main is less than 5-6bar max, feeding the WC's off the unbalanced cold feed. Then you'll ideally want to fit flow restrictors in each WC to stop water hammer, reduce fill related noise and arrest the unregulated flow so as to have as little impact on the dynamic flow to the UVC and balanced house system. 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

If you have multiple WC's then it's worth the effort of taking the cold feed from the unrestricted cold main ( so directly after the stopcock and supply NRV ) and, if the static incoming main is less than 5-6bar max, feeding the WC's off the unbalanced cold feed. Then you'll ideally want to fit flow restrictors in each WC to stop water hammer, reduce fill related noise and arrest the unregulated flow so as to have as little impact on the dynamic flow to the UVC and balanced house system. 

 

^^ wot I sed... although I have seen the PReD set to a low pressure just to stop the issues @Nickfromwales highlights ...

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OK getting my head round this...

Kitchen run I think is easy- a 15mm cold and a 15mm hot, the cold will have a tee off for the washing machine and dishwasher, then both end up at the sink.

Bathroom is trickier. Looks like a dedicated hot and cold for the shower, the cold coming off the PRV on the tank. Then a separate pair of 10mm hot and cold, not balanced, feeding the basin and WC?

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Balance all the basin and shower ones - much easier and makes monoblock taps blend better. 

 

TBH with your set up is it ever likely that someone will use the shower and the sink at the same time ..?? If not just use 10mm spurs off the balanced 15mm feeds. 

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56 minutes ago, Crofter said:

Bathroom is trickier. Looks like a dedicated hot and cold for the shower, the cold coming off the PRV on the tank. Then a separate pair of 10mm hot and cold, not balanced, feeding the basin and WC?

Not quite...

Firstly, is your bathroom all in one room?

If so ( assuming you don't have a cloakroom with separate bath / sink ) it couldn't be easier. 

The 15's come off, balanced, from the UVC and multi-block, then they simply feed the shower and basin, teeing off accordingly. 

Feed the WC off the same unrestricted branch as the outside tap, and if possible also use that to feed the washine machine. 

Same balanced 15mm pair to the kitchen sink. 

Flow restriction to the WC is the main thing imo, but with only 3 bar coming in I'd not lose any sleep if you don't do anything other than tee off where easier. 

Edited by Nickfromwales
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