Dee Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 Roof is buttoned and ready to tile On past projects using timber fascias I installed them before tiling yet I've read that with plastic it goes on after tiling... Advise please Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 1, 2017 Share Posted April 1, 2017 (edited) I thought all fascias had to go on first when tiling to support the bottom row of tiles..? if you're using capping boards they go on afterwards but if it's the full 18mm ones then it goes on first. Try this for size http://www.swishbp.co.uk/installation/ Edited April 1, 2017 by PeterW Added link 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Not capping but a complete new installation.... Thanks for confirming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I use 18mm plastics but would never just use them to support tiles - I nail / screw 25mm board on first (4x1 or 6x1). Roof can be tiled then, leave the board 25mm proud of the roof timbers to give the necessary kick. Nail fascia on at your leasure, remember to tell the roofers the plan so they leave adequate tile overhang for the gutters. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 36 minutes ago, CC45 said: I use 18mm plastics but would never just use them to support tiles - I nail / screw 25mm board on first (4x1 or 6x1). Roof can be tiled then, leave the board 25mm proud of the roof timbers to give the necessary kick. Nail fascia on at your leasure, remember to tell the roofers the plan so they leave adequate tile overhang for the gutters. That's exactly how ours was done. Our roofers also fitted the fascias, so got the overhang right on the slates. The only slight problem we have is that our in-roof PV panels are fitted with the lower edges flush with the edges of the slates, but are about 20 to 30mm higher. In very heavy rain this causes water to overshoot the gutter in two places. I'm thinking about fitting wider gutters to try and alleviate the problem. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 @CC45. I get what you're saying but I've already cut the rafters to allow for the overhang and its pretty tight so I don't think I've got the distance to do it....the dormer is about 2. 4m sq at eaves so could I run a continuous wedge on top of and along the rafters to support the tiles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 @CC45 Any reason you can't just put a 25mm roof batten flush with the end of rhe rafter if you're only using it as the kicker ..? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Would the kick effect the angle of the tile against the bonnet tile? It would be a very simply solution.. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC45 Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Dee, just put a batten to give the kick. Your fascia will have to be nailed to the rafters. Peter, you can but since I wanted wood behind our plastic fascia I killed two jobs in one. Even the thick plastic fascia isnt that strong. I always use deepflow gutters, bit more cash but no more extra work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dee Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 @CC45. In the end we cut continuous wedges (one on each side) to rest the eaves tiles on and to give a kick.... Problem though.... The kick is 50mm high and today I set the first eaves tiles and the first bonnets on the first batton but the first full tiles don't hook over the batton above , the angle is either too steep or the kick really needs to be about another 20mm higher! But if I did this it would cause a dip in the felt and any water would puddle.... Does that make sense? At a loss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassanclan Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 It might be that you need to move the batten down, but if not, I wouldn't worry about it, remember that every tile for the first two rows (and then every 5th) row needs to be nailed. If need be use slightly longer nails 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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