Deeno Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Existing external door frame which is having new roof over, will it require a lintel. Cannot be concrete, would make door height to low, as wall plate runs over just above door opening what are the options Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nod Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 Steel plate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeno Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 Thanks I was probably over thinking it. And it was staring me in the face. How thick would steel plate need to be, only taking mono pitch roof Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 If roof is pitched and space is tight then a angle (L section) will work well. something like 100x50x6 should be more than enough for a single door opening Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeno Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 1 hour ago, markc said: If roof is pitched and space is tight then a angle (L section) will work well. something like 100x50x6 should be more than enough for a single door opening I reckon I can get 12mm steel plate between top of wall, and bottom of wall plate Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 5 minutes ago, Deeno said: I reckon I can get 12mm steel plate between top of wall, and bottom of wall plate Angle could turn up behind wall plate. But as you are having a wall plate, do you need a lintel at all? what size wall plate? Will truss or rafter drop towards centre of door opening or one either side? As the roof will be fairly small, the potential loading above the door is comparable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterW Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 One of these - cheaper than stealing https://condell-ltd.com/keystone-ang-k-single-leaf-lintel-1050mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeno Posted September 7, 2021 Author Share Posted September 7, 2021 4 hours ago, markc said: Angle could turn up behind wall plate. But as you are having a wall plate, do you need a lintel at all? what size wall plate? Will truss or rafter drop towards centre of door opening or one either side? As the roof will be fairly small, the potential loading above the door is comparable 4x2 wall plate I'm not doing roof it's a sip building Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus Potter Posted September 7, 2021 Share Posted September 7, 2021 10 hours ago, nod said: Steel plate Good idea from Nod. So long as the span is say only over a doorway and the loads are not too high then as a one off it can work. I digress a bit..Have used this on renovations where you have say traditional solid stone walls 2ft thick.On the inside you put a heavier lintel then on the outside you use a solid steel plate, say 100mm wide x 25 - 30mm thk to just support the outer edge of the stonework. On the stone renovations I have gone for 304 grade stainless steel flats.. expensive though but it reduces the corrosion risk to the stonework. Deeno, the other thing to look at is to see if you can put the lintel (look at timber) within the rafter depth. The principle is the same as say trimming out for a velux window. Still probably cheeper than even a short length of 25 - 30mm thk stainless bar, but a mild steel flat bar protected by galv etc is a reasonable price. I would favour trying to trim a timber or two into the rafter depth first though, just make sure you check you are not compromising the ventilation of the roof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deeno Posted September 8, 2021 Author Share Posted September 8, 2021 13 hours ago, Gus Potter said: Good idea from Nod. So long as the span is say only over a doorway and the loads are not too high then as a one off it can work. I digress a bit..Have used this on renovations where you have say traditional solid stone walls 2ft thick.On the inside you put a heavier lintel then on the outside you use a solid steel plate, say 100mm wide x 25 - 30mm thk to just support the outer edge of the stonework. On the stone renovations I have gone for 304 grade stainless steel flats.. expensive though but it reduces the corrosion risk to the stonework. Deeno, the other thing to look at is to see if you can put the lintel (look at timber) within the rafter depth. The principle is the same as say trimming out for a velux window. Still probably cheeper than even a short length of 25 - 30mm thk stainless bar, but a mild steel flat bar protected by galv etc is a reasonable price. I would favour trying to trim a timber or two into the rafter depth first though, just make sure you check you are not compromising the ventilation of the roof. Steel plate is not problem of getting hold of. The new extension is a sip pre fabricated. Company putting it up Would you need plate as thick as mentioned 20 hours ago, markc said: Angle could turn up behind wall plate. But as you are having a wall plate, do you need a lintel at all? what size wall plate? Will truss or rafter drop towards centre of door opening or one either side? As the roof will be fairly small, the potential loading above the door is comparable 4x2 wall plate I'm not doing roof it's a sip building Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markc Posted September 8, 2021 Share Posted September 8, 2021 If it’s a sip roof and 4x2 wall plate with no brickwork on the lintel then I wouldn’t bother, the wall plate will be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now