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Lintel external door


Deeno

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1 hour ago, markc said:

If roof is pitched and space is tight then a angle (L section) will work well.

something like 100x50x6 should be more than enough for a single door opening

I reckon I can get 12mm steel plate between top of wall, and  bottom of wall plate

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5 minutes ago, Deeno said:

I reckon I can get 12mm steel plate between top of wall, and  bottom of wall plate

Angle could turn up behind wall plate. But as you are having a wall plate, do you need a lintel at all? 
what size wall plate? Will truss or rafter drop towards centre of door opening or one either side? As the roof will be fairly small, the potential loading above the door is comparable

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4 hours ago, markc said:

Angle could turn up behind wall plate. But as you are having a wall plate, do you need a lintel at all? 
what size wall plate? Will truss or rafter drop towards centre of door opening or one either side? As the roof will be fairly small, the potential loading above the door is comparable

4x2 wall plate I'm not doing roof it's a sip building 

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10 hours ago, nod said:

Steel plate 

Good idea from Nod.

 

So long as the span is say only over a doorway and the loads are not too high then as a one off it can work.

 

I digress a bit..Have used this on renovations where you have say traditional solid stone walls 2ft thick.On the inside you put a heavier lintel then on the outside you use a solid steel plate, say 100mm wide x 25 - 30mm thk to just support the outer edge of the stonework. On the stone renovations I have gone for 304 grade stainless steel flats.. expensive though but it reduces the corrosion risk to the stonework.

 

Deeno, the other thing to look at is to see if you can put the lintel (look at timber) within the rafter depth. The principle is the same as say trimming out for a velux window. Still probably cheeper than even a short length of 25 - 30mm thk stainless bar, but a mild steel flat bar protected by galv etc is a reasonable price. I would favour trying to trim a timber or two into the rafter depth first though, just make sure you check you are not compromising the ventilation of the roof.

 

 

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13 hours ago, Gus Potter said:

Good idea from Nod.

 

So long as the span is say only over a doorway and the loads are not too high then as a one off it can work.

 

I digress a bit..Have used this on renovations where you have say traditional solid stone walls 2ft thick.On the inside you put a heavier lintel then on the outside you use a solid steel plate, say 100mm wide x 25 - 30mm thk to just support the outer edge of the stonework. On the stone renovations I have gone for 304 grade stainless steel flats.. expensive though but it reduces the corrosion risk to the stonework.

 

Deeno, the other thing to look at is to see if you can put the lintel (look at timber) within the rafter depth. The principle is the same as say trimming out for a velux window. Still probably cheeper than even a short length of 25 - 30mm thk stainless bar, but a mild steel flat bar protected by galv etc is a reasonable price. I would favour trying to trim a timber or two into the rafter depth first though, just make sure you check you are not compromising the ventilation of the roof.

 

 

Steel plate is not problem of getting hold of. The new extension is a sip pre fabricated. Company putting it up Would you need plate as thick as mentioned

20 hours ago, markc said:

Angle could turn up behind wall plate. But as you are having a wall plate, do you need a lintel at all? 
what size wall plate? Will truss or rafter drop towards centre of door opening or one either side? As the roof will be fairly small, the potential loading above the door is comparable

4x2 wall plate I'm not doing roof it's a sip building 

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