K-Rend: FT or K1

[djcdan]

We're currently finalising details for our render system and planning to get this on order in the next week or so.

 

We are set on having a K-Rend system laid directly on block skin, but have a few questions:

 

i) Which system, between the FT or K1, is better? I can see that K1 can be sprayed, but other than this, there doesn't seem to be much between them?

ii) We have steel lintels. I have read that render board can be secured to the face of the steel lintels and the render applied to the render board. Is this the best way to do it, and if so, what is recommended to secure the render board to the steel - fixings or an adhesive?

iii) Other than the bags of render, it is only beading required by the renderer to complete the job?

iv) Is it recommended to use K-Rend HP12 as a base coat beneath the FT or K1? I see some mentions that the top coat can be applied without the base but a thicker layer. What would be the reason not to use a base coat?

v) How thick should the layers be?

vi) Can anyone recommend any suppliers (other than the usual building merchants)?

 

 

Thanks in advance!

[Conor]

I recommend you find a renderer first. They all have their preferred systems. We've ended up with somebody that prefers Sto. Supply and fit.

 

I would recommend getting somebody that knows the system and let them decide the technical requirements. If you dictate how it should be done, and something goes wrong, you'll have no comeback. You can get fully warrantied systems through render suppliers but pricy!!!

 

Re fixing render board. 100% you need mechanical fixings. They are pretty heavy even before the render goes on. You can use EPS sheets instead.

 

My joiners shot on timber battens to the steels and I fixed on EPS with galvanised screws. For the soffits and fascias we fixed the render board with 5mm galvanized screws at 200mm centres and a bead of adhesive.

[jack]

@nod?

[nod]

K1 for directly onto block 

Though I would get them to mesh and scratch above and below windows 

I buy sprayable weather it’s being sprayed or hand applied 

and normally PH glue cement board to steel With self tappers every 600

[djcdan]

 

On 30/08/2021 at 11:43, Conor said:

I recommend you find a renderer first. They all have their preferred systems.

We have a renderer on board. We've had discussions with him who has said he has K-Rend on his house and that if we're ok with the occasional clean (algae can grow on the silicone render in our location), which we are, then we'd go with that. They have also given the option of labour only and supply & fit, hence looking in to this in greater detail. None-the-less, the control freak in me wants to understand the system down to the fine detail to ensure I also consider this best ?. We're in quite a rural location, tucked out of the way with little outside influence from other locations. Sometimes the trades here recommend things just because that is how things have always happened, with the more 'current' products not yet filtering their way through.

 

On 30/08/2021 at 11:43, Conor said:

You can get fully warrantied systems through render suppliers but pricy!!!

I've read render warranties aren't worth the paper they're written on? The manufacturer would always find a fault with installation - however small - and installer site blame on the product?

 

[djcdan]

22 hours ago, nod said:

K1 for directly onto block 

Thanks. Would you recommend with or without a HP12 base layer?

 

22 hours ago, nod said:

normally PH glue cement board to steel With self tappers every 600

Cement board - https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/10mm-cemboard-general-purpose-cement-board-2400mm-x-1200mm-8ft-x-4ft

Self-tapping screws - https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-carbon-steel-self-drilling-screws-5-5-x-75mm-100-pack/44476?tc=OB8&ds_kid=92700048793290424&ds_rl=1249413&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpreJBhDvARIsAF1_BU2hBLHaj4LBpyEkMq2xBG2YremcBsAvBR_v7zbdi7GHLEKYwCfg83gaApqMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds (or something along these lines)

PH Glue?

[nod]

If the surface is concrete block 

you don’t need a base coat 

If it’s one of the thermal blocks 

(High suction) you will need a base coat and mesh 

As I previously said It’s worth using mesh above and below windows 
 

Typo Should have read PU