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Steel Barn conversion


jen and mark

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Many thanks for the info. Background experience - several large barn conversions (working for a traditional builders firm) of stone and timber in the Cotswold - carpenter by trade. So much easier than steel!

 

Unfortunately, our designer has  been diagnosed with cancer and undergoing treatment which, rightly so, has meant he is unavailable. This was something we had not foreseen. We are now in a dilemma - do we instruct some one new? Wait and  hope he makes a speedy recovery (of course) or try and manage with help from you guys!!!!! As always with self build, budget is a major constraint - the barn is very large which in itself means more materials and we wont mention the current state of affairs with materials and prices at the moment!   

 

More late night researching - if not, get used to caravan living!

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1 hour ago, jen and mark said:

This was our original sectional drawings - no mention of any thermal issues or airtightness!sectional design.pdf

 

Is (1) the vertical timber cladding and (2) the proposed "New box section double-skin insulated vertical cladding"?

 

image.png.cb3aa0a09cca0ffcd5b6b2f4e27dfd1c.png

 

In the upper area, behind (1), is there any insulation planned between the "C" profile beams.

 

Edited by IanR
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4 hours ago, jen and mark said:

original sectional drawings

Ok I have it. they downloaded to my files, which isn't something I want to do, so next time drop onto the page please.

 

As IanR, no sign of any wall insulation, and the wall cladding is shown single skin.

 

If this was mine I would also box around the columns, and insulate at the same time. Timber, metal, whatever, and stuff with weatherproof insulation.

 

Why the block infill to columns? 

 

Also I would be nervous about the valley gutter. 

Is it new or old? I see you are having new purlins, so presumably they have wasted, and so will have the gutter.

If old, it will be well undersized for recent rainfall levels, except in gentle parts of the country.

Even if new, they are never on a slope to outlets, and seldom even flat, so the lowest point controls the depth before it overflows.

This needs expert design.

Also needs some serious sealing at the bottom of the roof profiles, or water splashes up from the other side.

The specification should include the quality and coating material of the cladding. Worcestershire isn't known for salt air or pollution, but still...best invest in good quality.

 

This drawing is not complete. The cladding needs 'cleader rails'.. and closers. then you need to join the insulation and make it airtight.

If not your thing, then I suggest you do need a designer who knows steel buildings...I am not offering......Or research it yourself for which I suggest look at Kingspan design details which cover most of this, last time I looked.

 

Cedar: you know this goes dull grey and you need particular fixings or it stains?

I always use tanalised pine, and spend a third of the saving on a coat of Sadolin Oak colour, then it stays that colour with a sheen, or use a cedar colour or any other.

But if you want dull grey, that is an opinion.

 

Spell check changed it to tantalised!!! Good job I checked.

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Love a bit of tantalised wood!

 

Cheers guys, will get a new designer - not happy with this one but he has been seriously ill - think he was in his prime in the 80s!

 

Many thanks

 

PS sorry uploading it that way - didn't want the full address and names on the web and couldn't sus out how to upload without.

 

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