Fit a cavity lintel into a temporary single skin block wall.

[epsilonGreedy]

This is another of my "can I get away with doing things in the wrong order" type questions.

 

I want to get the internal block wall of the workshop portion of my garage upto wall plate height six months before the external facing brick wall is constructed. When finished the wall will be a regular 100mm cavity wall.

 

The dilemma I face is how to fit a standard tin cavity lintel and keep it in place and the unsupported half of the lintel secure before the outer facing brick wall is built.

 

The window aperture is narrow about 550mm wide x 1100mm high.

 

My current idea is to build a wooden rectangular profile out of 2" x 3" timber that will sit on the outer footing wall facing bricks (blues). This footing wall is currently at dpc height. This will support the dangling unsupported 2/3rds of the lintel. I will brace the base of the profile around the footing wall to make sure it does not jump off during a winter gust of wind but clamping the top of the wooden profile to the lintel will be more interesting.

 

I am thinking the wood in the profile will swell during damp winter weeks but the tin lintel should be flexible enough to cope with a few mm's of up and down movement.

 

Should I consider any other solution?

 

In case any pro builders are concerned about the over all structural integrity of the single skin temporary wall, I think I am ok. The internal floor space of the workshop is 5m x 2.4m with a dividing block wall to create a 60/40 division of the space.

[Mr Punter]

Acro either end

[epsilonGreedy]

1 hour ago, Mr Punter said:

Acro either end

 

 

Thanks, not thought of using acros. I am a bit concerned that there would be no effective weight on the acros and they might fall out. I need to be careful because this window opening is alongside the path between the static caravan and the fridge freezer running inside the main house. Swmbo won't be impressed if she gets clonked by a toppling acro while returning to the static clutching a chilled bottle of wine.

[Declan52]

Use a concrete head on the inside but only bed it at the end away from the window so you leave 100mm with no motar. Then when the time comes you can slip the catnic in under the concrete head and point in the gap. 

[epsilonGreedy]

1 hour ago, Declan52 said:

Use a concrete head on the inside but only bed it at the end away from the window so you leave 100mm with no motar. Then when the time comes you can slip the catnic in under the concrete head and point in the gap.

 

 

Ooo sneaky, I thought there might be a pro trick solution for this.

 

> 100mm with no motar

 

I suppose with the minimal loading above the lintel a 100mm lintel seat rather than 150mm is ok. I think there will be 1 block course plus a course or two of coursing bricks above the lintel on the inside. This lintel will take the weight of a natural slate roof near the mid point of a hip end. 

Edited July 29, 2021 by epsilonGreedy

[Brickie]

Are you hoping to put the roof & covering on before the external skin is built?

[epsilonGreedy]

23 minutes ago, Brickie said:

Are you hoping to put the roof & covering on before the external skin is built?

 

 

I am tempted but think I will play safe and instead put on a temporary roof covering using those semi flexible corrugated roof panels.

[epsilonGreedy]

8 hours ago, Declan52 said:

Use a concrete head on the inside but only bed it at the end away from the window so you leave 100mm with no motar. Then when the time comes you can slip the catnic in under the concrete head and point in the gap. 

 

 

I forgot to ask, should this concrete head lintel be 65mm x 100 or a double height 150 x 100 jobbie?

 

I have just been out measuring and think the span will be 850mm.

[Declan52]

Either would do the job for such a small span.