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Total max weight hangable on single stud


phloaw

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I'd like to hang a gas central heating vertical radiator on a single timber stud behind a thin plasterboard wall. The stud is 38mm wide (actual size) and (presumably, difficult to measure) around 75mm deep. The radiator would weigh around 35kg in total, spread across a number of screws which can vary between four and ten (I have some freedom with that).

Would that be ok? If yes, what screw size would you recommend?

Thank you.

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A single stud should have no problem carrying the weight. The only issue I see is that if someone knocks the rad sideways the bracket might dig into the plasterboard unless its a decent area. I believe wires are meant to be at least 50mm deep in the wall so I'd use screws that penetrate the wall around 40mm. So 40mm plus the thickness of the bracket. 

 

See what others say.

 

 

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It depends on the screw type. I like to use toggle / butterfly fixings in plasterboard as they spread the load away from the hole, and a setting tool is worth the investment, to get a clean and tight fixing. (otherwise the bolt spins and the board gets damaged).

Then you can perhaps centre it to ensure some normal screw fixings go into the timber.

Once you have chosen a fixing type, the information should allow you to calculate how many you need, but best allow some safety margin, as people sit and lean on radiators.

You can find allowable loadings on the websites of suppliers and manufacturers.

For example this says that each fixing supports 20kg. 4 of these might therefore be sensible, but you must check to suit your circumstances, including the condition of the plasterboard.

https://www.diy.com/departments/fischer-steel-hollow-wall-anchor-l-37mm-pack-of-4/1161797_BQ.prd

 

 

 

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I think the stud is fine for the weight, however the fixing of the radiator to the plasterboard is not best, in my humble opinion. 

 

Lots of things to be considered:

What thickness is the plasterboard? Is the plasterboard plastered or drylined? Is the wall in a damp room? Can some of the screws fix through the plasterboard into the stud?

Is 35kg the dryweight? 

Is the radiator going to be on a wall that has passing traffic?

 

Years ago, I worked for a national timber framed house builder. One job I had was going around about 32 houses cutting open walls and putting noggins in where the radiators had been fixed to the plasterboard. The plasterboard had slowly bowed out with the weight.  

 

Best of luck

 

Marvin.

 

 

 

 

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4 hours ago, Marvin said:

I think the stud is fine for the weight, however the fixing of the radiator to the plasterboard is not best, in my humble opinion. 

 

Lots of things to be considered:

What thickness is the plasterboard? Is the plasterboard plastered or drylined? Is the wall in a damp room? Can some of the screws fix through the plasterboard into the stud?

Is 35kg the dryweight? 

Is the radiator going to be on a wall that has passing traffic?

 

Years ago, I worked for a national timber framed house builder. One job I had was going around about 32 houses cutting open walls and putting noggins in where the radiators had been fixed to the plasterboard. The plasterboard had slowly bowed out with the weight.  

 

Best of luck

 

Marvin.

 

Thanks for the answer. However, I do not intend to fix the radiator to the the plasterboard. That's why I'm asking about the stud.

 

 

Edited by phloaw
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40 minutes ago, PeterW said:

No issue with a rad onto a stud but can’t see how it will only have one set of brackets unless it’s some sort of obscure shape such as the single upright with loops type rad ..??

 

I will fix rectangular or tee steel plates centered to the stud, then the brackets will be attached to the ends of the plates. Since the vertical radiator is narrow, I hope this works.
Of course I'd be quite interested in any possible objection about this plan, before I start ;) 

Edited by phloaw
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1 hour ago, PeterW said:

TBH I would use one set of brackets onto the stud and another onto standard PB fixings of some flavour. Won’t go anywhere. 

 

Possible, but since there is a reasonable alternative to avoid plasterboard fixing, I'll try that first.

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