Best way to do 4x 22mm holes in masonry?

[Jeremy]

I'm delivering water feeds (via Speedfit 22mm) for a newly installed unvented cylinder in a cellar under the front sitting room to a utility room in the back of the house also on the ground floor. This will involve four separate 22mm feeds (cold supply, hot return, and supply/return for radiators). The most sensible route for this is under floorboards as we have suspended timber floors over bare earth in the two front rooms, and then (as the house is built into a slight slope of hillside) an earth floor with quarry tiles. I need to drill through two separate masonry walls (somewhere between 5-9" thick) to get this route to the cellar, and am thinking it would probably be wise to run pipes through a sleeve, so we're looking at four 30mm holes in a row for just over 5 inches wide.

I'm wondering if there is a more efficient way to create the gap for the pipes aside from simply drilling four adjacent holes with a 30mm SDS+ bit? Should I just remove a brick? This is my first renovation, so not really sure what options are out there! Any advice most welcome -

[Nickfromwales]

Sleeves for the hot and cold is minimum, but the heating will need to be wrapped with insulation to go through the masonry, not just sleeves. 
22mm + 18mm ( 9mm wall Armorflex insulation ) will need 40mm holes for flow and return. Ideally you should be insulating the hot and cold too if under a ventilated suspended floor space. 
I would just knock a whole brick out and then foam around the pipes after you’ve run them through to close the gaps completely. 

Edited June 18, 2021 by Nickfromwales

[Mr Punter]

Yes, take at brick out.  Could you also insulate the pipes?

 

Wot Nick said

Edited June 18, 2021 by Mr Punter
Nick beat me to it

[Jeremy]

51 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Sleeves for the hot and cold is minimum, but the heating will need to be wrapped with insulation to go through the masonry, not just sleeves. 
22mm + 18mm ( 9mm wall Armorflex insulation ) will need 40mm holes for flow and return. Ideally you should be insulating the hot and cold too if under a ventilated suspended floor space. 
I would just knock a whole brick out and then foam around the pipes after you’ve run them through to close the gaps completely. 

 

That's new (but helpful) information to me - was planning on insulating around the hot pipes at 19mm with Polyethylene Foam, but it's pretty cheap stuff, so easy to do both.

 

Is insulating cold pipes under suspended floors to prevent freezing?

 

I hadn't thought about insulating the sleeve through the wall as well. Is that absolutely necessary? 40mm is getting to be a pretty big hole! Any good ideas about what to use for sleeving? Was originally going to just do a 28mm pipe...

 

One wall is double brick, I think, so may need to think my way through how to get out a brick ...

[PeterW]

1 hour ago, Jeremy said:

newly installed unvented cylinder in a cellar

How are you venting the safety PRVs to a drain ..?? 

[Jeremy]

Heh, that's the ASHP installer's problem. I just need to bring the supply to the install location... But probably out the wall, as there's a sewer/waste pipe just outside the cellar wall

[Nickfromwales]

33 minutes ago, PeterW said:

How are you venting the safety PRVs to a drain ..?? 

You can dump that into a high temp pump in an empty F&E tank. 

[TonyT]

Sleeping pipes is good practice, 

Use the next pipe diameter up and embed this into the wall and pass the smaller diameter pipe through the sleeve.

 

[Nickfromwales]

12 hours ago, TonyT said:

Sleeping pipes is good practice, 

Use the next pipe diameter up and embed this into the wall and pass the smaller diameter pipe through the sleeve.

 

Not if they’re heating pipes. Insulation every single time.