SuperJohnG Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 There are various topics covering this question but I need a slightly different answer as most of these have the DPM inside the EPS systems whereas as mine wraps up the front and meets with the DPC. Here is an image of the build up: I seem to have two issues, which I'll deal with separately: 1) What to cover the EPS upstand with and importantly how best to attach it 2) Wall build up to reach past the Upstand. EPS Upstand: There are a good few threads on what others have done from Cement board to Ubiflex and UPVC. But they all seemed to have only the DPM folded over so seemed easier. I have a DPC from the top and the DPM from the bottom- which I have joined together (seemed to make sense) but I could cut it back. I suppose it doesn't really matter what I choose to put here but I was wondering the best way to attach it. If it is cement board should I screw through the board right into the concrete? for Ubiflex or UPVC - just try and cut back and use EPS compatible adhesive of some kind? Wall build up: I have planned a ventilated cavity with render board I'd think I need to get out past the EPS upstand so when water runs down the wall it drops past the edge to the ground. However I have just noticed that the drg the engineer has used above, has the correct 50mm thick batten (50 x 75mm to mount renderbaord) but rather than use a 12.5mm render board he has shown a 30mm thick board, which isn't correct. Hence if I do this build up it won't be as far out to clear the EPS. The actual upstand is 60mm thick, hence with a 50mm Gap and 12.5mm board (not sure of render build up depth - it'll be thin coat silicone render) I barely squeeze past the upstand but definitely clear the cladding for the EPS upstand. What's the best way to do this? I could build out the battens, but it feels like they are really big already at 50mm thick? should I add an L shaped trim to top of upstand (Like others have in aluminium) so any water drops on that then runs off? is it ok for this to sit further out than the wall finish? it feels like it shouldn't. I I've attached a picture of what it currently looks like. I've also cross referenced existing threads for anyone else in the future. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Laslett Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 @SuperJohnG, Thank you for consolidating some of the other threads. This has been exercising my mind of late, too. Even with the other solutions, the fixing options are not clear. On my Tanner drawing they have spec’d render for the Upstand, which I think will be okay. I do still wonder what to do with my DPM, fold it down over the Upstand, that creates a problem for rendering, or fold it up onto the wall, again, issue for rendering. So just cut it, which doesn’t seem right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Fix a cement board to it and render over? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 1 hour ago, Nickfromwales said: Fix a cement board to it and render over? Thats what mine says and was I was thinking of doing. But just a pain as it'll sit further out than the wall finish which is not ideal. @Nick Laslett defo fold down the way so it allows water to run down regardless. Then affix a render board above the edge of your DPM. You'll have the same issue as me though likely with that sticking further out than wall finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Laslett Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 3 hours ago, SuperJohnG said: Thats what mine says and was I was thinking of doing. But just a pain as it'll sit further out than the wall finish which is not ideal. @Nick Laslett defo fold down the way so it allows water to run down regardless. Then affix a render board above the edge of your DPM. You'll have the same issue as me though likely with that sticking further out than wall finish. Thanks, good advice. I might still have a tiny overhang as the ICF without any render is already 10mm out from the Upstand edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickfromwales Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 9 hours ago, SuperJohnG said: Thats what mine says and was I was thinking of doing. But just a pain as it'll sit further out than the wall finish which is not ideal. Lay strips of 15mm / 18mm ply over, or change the depth of the vertical battens to bring them out past the cement board and render? Somethings got to give? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Laslett Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 (edited) Just adding another short tread on the topic. New suggestions here are Eurocell soffit board and slate wall tiles with a nice picture. Edited June 13, 2021 by Nick Laslett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperJohnG Posted July 30, 2021 Author Share Posted July 30, 2021 I'm still stuck on this but rapidly approaching needing it sorted. I have priced aluminium which they will do for 800 quid for the full 70m.of the house, albeit much smaller profile with say with 70mm main horizontal bit to cover eps top surface which does the 50mm plus 20mm overhang to slip a render board under then 10mm vertical edge and that leaves 20mm to come up the sole plate and attach it to the sole plate. But what i am wondering is where people stop the battens. From what I see from pics of @Scotrock and @lizzie the battens come right down. But how do you then get the PIR upstand in easily? Just cut between battens? Or stop battens well short and leave last 200mm of render board unsecured? Fitting insect mesh seems pain too. I'm sure it'll be clear once I do it. But would like this to look nice and not cost the earth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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