ollieD Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 Hi all, Bit of daft one I think - I'm trying to get my head around getting the cladding lining up with the outer splash course of bricks or at least to the plinth brick edge. I'm sure I'm missing something obvious but see the attached detail and let me know what you think. The timber frame supplier mentioned having the exterior splash course of bricks would be the way they normally see the block work. Cheers, Ollie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Posted April 29, 2021 Share Posted April 29, 2021 (edited) We have blockwork out of the ground with the cladding sitting proud of it to there is a ventilation space behind the cladding (cladding is cedral rather than wood) . The exposed blockwork is then faced with PIR then a panel of the flat cedral board. But then we don't have a suspended floor. Edited April 29, 2021 by Ralph Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollieD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 Would you happen to have a photo to hand of the flat board/blockwork at the bottom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 HI I don't have any great detail photos, we're still working on it but this one shows the block work with and without the insulation. I'll take more at the weekend. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 (edited) Did this detail come from the timber frame company? I think the design is problematic. You don't have necessary bottom ventilation gap for the cladding and you are lining yourself up for water problems both at the bottom of the cladding on the outside and because any water ingress behind the cladding has no way to get out. You can completely remove the 'splash' course as it doesn't appear to serve any particular purpose and will only cost you extra money in both labour and materials. Is your cladding to be installed vertical or horizontally? If it's vertical you need counter battens. You also apper to have a cold bridge problem at your wall-floor junction. Edited April 30, 2021 by SimonD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollieD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 (edited) Thanks @Ralph - the place looks amazing by the way. Edited April 30, 2021 by ollieD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollieD Posted April 30, 2021 Author Share Posted April 30, 2021 Thanks for the input @SimonD, it's a mix of information we've been given and are open to changes. Happy to remove the splash course and bump the 100mm wide blocks to 140 under the block and beam. Would we PIR board and cover at the front of the block wall for the cold bridge or increase the height and thickness of the 25mm insulation upstand where the screed meets the block to help with that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Punter Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 You may need a bit more insulation as well. I would be wary of timber cladding on timber frame for insurance / mortgage / resale reasons. The Cedral / Hardie type stuff can be a better bet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 I do have this that is similar to what we have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SimonD Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 23 hours ago, ollieD said: Thanks for the input @SimonD, it's a mix of information we've been given and are open to changes. Happy to remove the splash course and bump the 100mm wide blocks to 140 under the block and beam. Would we PIR board and cover at the front of the block wall for the cold bridge or increase the height and thickness of the 25mm insulation upstand where the screed meets the block to help with that? Hi Ollie, Yes, ideally you want to insulate the front of the block wall. This should be down to a minimum of 215mm below the top of your floor beams. EPS would be fine, or XPS. It's common to find EPS 200 or 300 rather than 70 detailed here for the perimeter board. As @Mr Punter suggests you might want to look at your insulation thickness all over and also consider whether rigid insulation is the best option for you in a timber frame - it's more difficult to fit and detail between the studs compared to flexible insulation materials. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ollieD Posted May 4, 2021 Author Share Posted May 4, 2021 Thanks again Simon, I'll take another punt at the blockwork/insulation detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now