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Water pipes - under screed or in ceiling??


Conor

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For the basement I've the choice of either running my hot and cold water pipes on the underside of the GF floor slabs (within suspended ceiling) and then dropping down to the appliances. Or running along the top (or through) the floor insualtion and then up through screed to the appliances.

 

My preference is within the suspended ceiling as I'm not yet at the point of putting down floor insualtion. Any disadvantages other than slightly longer pipe runs? 

Edited by Conor
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If anything goes wrong or needs moving then its simpler if you can get at them. I am a great believer in little access panels everywhere, much to my other half's annoyance, so I can get at things easily - like the underside of the bath, through the wall behind it in the corridor. The deal in the new place is that there won't be any other than in the utility room so I will have to think very hard and test every connection before covering up!

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I had the same choice for our ground floor and plan to go in suspended ceiling for the following reasons:

- marginally easier to get at if a change required in the future

- marginally easier to get at if there was ever a leak

- quicker to detect a leak

- insulation not compromised

 

I don't think any of these are particularly strong reasons though, esp with a manifold system as there'll be no connections hidden.

Edited by cwr
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  • 1 year later...
On 29/04/2021 at 10:14, Conor said:

Thanks. Ceiling it is. 

 

Old thread I know, but did you run the pipes in the ceiling void OK? 

My builder was appalled when I suggested similar.  Says pipes always go in the floor.

Edited by Mr Blobby
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2 minutes ago, Mr Blobby said:

 

Old thread I know, but did you run the pipes in the ceiling void OK? 

My builder was appalled when I suggested similar.  Says pipes always go in the floor.

Yes, all in the void, that's why it's there 🤣

 

Nobody ever commented on this, BC, architect, plumbers, SE...

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4 minutes ago, Conor said:

Yes, all in the void, that's why it's there 🤣

 

Nobody ever commented on this, BC, architect, plumbers, SE...

 

Thanks.  Running them up there in the ceiling would be one less thing to worry about when laying the KORE slab 😏

 

Did you chase the pipes in to the wall?  I could run the pipes down in a void at the end of a run of units in the utility, but then would need to go behind the washing machine and dryer to the sink.  That seems sensible to me, is it?  I guess need to ask the kitchen supplier about the service void, if any, at the back of the units.

 

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37 minutes ago, Mr Blobby said:

 

Thanks.  Running them up there in the ceiling would be one less thing to worry about when laying the KORE slab 😏

 

Did you chase the pipes in to the wall?  I could run the pipes down in a void at the end of a run of units in the utility, but then would need to go behind the washing machine and dryer to the sink.  That seems sensible to me, is it?  I guess need to ask the kitchen supplier about the service void, if any, at the back of the units.

 

No, stud walls, so fitted in the usual safe zones. Radial system so minimal joins in ceilings / walls, and I know where they all are! Had a couple main service voids and ran pipes up these alongside the ventilation risers etc.

 

For our sink, pipes came up from below as it was suspended floor, but we did get the kitchen company to leave a 40mm device void at back of the units. Only of use if your units go right to 5he ceiling... Might be better off battening out the entire wall instead.

Edited by Conor
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4 hours ago, Conor said:

Might be better off battening out the entire wall instead.

 

... and that's the million dollar question... do I batten out the entire wall behind the kitchen units to run the services and protect the plaster airtight layer from the kitchen fitters. 

 

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5 hours ago, Mr Blobby said:

 

... and that's the million dollar question... do I batten out the entire wall behind the kitchen units to run the services and protect the plaster airtight layer from the kitchen fitters. 

 

Just get a continuous layer of dab running the full width at 750-950mm off ToC, for the base units to be affixed to, and the same at x height to take the wall unit fixings. 

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10 hours ago, Nickfromwales said:

Just get a continuous layer of dab running the full width at 750-950mm off ToC, for the base units to be affixed to, and the same at x height to take the wall unit fixings. 

 

That's very helpful Nick thank you. 

But what exactly is a 'continuous layer of dab'  🤔 and is it also a good way ro protect the plaster (for airtightness) as well as provide a service void behind the units?

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1 minute ago, Mr Blobby said:

 

That's very helpful Nick thank you. 

But what exactly is a 'continuous layer of dab'  🤔 and is it also a good way ro protect the plaster (for airtightness) as well as provide a service void behind the units?

Assuming your going to be affixing the plasterboards with dot and dab? Or do you plan to cement coat and plaster with a full wet system?

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16 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Assuming your going to be affixing the plasterboards with dot and dab? Or do you plan to cement coat and plaster with a full wet system?

 

Ah, I see.  Wet plaster because this is best for airtightness is it not? 

Until the kitchen fitters arrive and drill loads of holes in it of course.  🙄

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Just now, Mr Blobby said:

 

Ah, I see.  Wet plaster because this is best for airtightness is it not? 

Until the kitchen fitters arrive and drill loads of holes in it of course.  🙄

Ah, ok. 

Well, they'll actually drill a hole in the wall, then insert a rawl plug, then insert a screw. So not actually a 'hole', more a penetration.

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