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Internal Steel stud work


Pocster

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Hey all,

 

I'm going this route for various reasons over timber.

Does it matter (or is there any benefit) of doing walls first then ceiling?. By this I mean the walls would obviously be floor to ceiling height thereby the ceiling (once plasterboard out) would only contact with the stud walls rather than the structural walls - if that makes sense! O.o. Equally the same for doing ceiling first then walls.

 

I assume there's no different either way.............

 

The other thing that concerned me is once all this stud is up I did intend cladding the walls in OSB and then plasterboard - I like my wall to feel (and sound!) solid - also of course good for any fixing (though I'll reinforce anyway where for example kitchen wall units go). This a good or bad plan ?

Edited by pocster
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You can 'in-lay' the osb so it doesn't make the room smaller if that's an issue, say for hallways / landings etc, but other than that I'd heartily recommend cladding the metal stuff as I'm not a fan ( due to it being a bit flimsy compared to timber imo ). 

Have you fitted it before? Do you know to put struts ( sections of metal strut between stud and existing solid wall ) in at 1/3rd up and 2/3rds up to remove the 'twang' ? ;)

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23 minutes ago, pocster said:

Hey all,

 

I'm going this route for various reasons over timber.

Does it matter (or is there any benefit) of doing walls first then ceiling?. By this I mean the walls would obviously be floor to ceiling height thereby the ceiling (once plasterboard out) would only contact with the stud walls rather than the structural walls - if that makes sense! O.o. Equally the same for doing ceiling first then walls.

 

Are your electrics all in? We did walls first and once they were all done, got the electrician in to do the electrics. Had we done the ceiling first, we'd have needed the spark in before, and all the stud wiring would have been dangling all over the place. Doing the walls before the spark meant all the cables are run pretty much to the exact location first time. 

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21 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

You can 'in-lay' the osb so it doesn't make the room smaller if that's an issue, say for hallways / landings etc, but other than that I'd heartily recommend cladding the metal stuff as I'm not a fan ( due to it being a bit flimsy compared to timber imo ). 

Have you fitted it before? Do you know to put struts ( sections of metal strut between stud and existing solid wall ) in at 1/3rd up and 2/3rds up to remove the 'twang' ? ;)

Funny you should mention that. I saw some systems with those 'anchors' also other systems which just use a ceiling and floor rail so no 'mid way' support....

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17 minutes ago, jamiehamy said:

 

Are your electrics all in? We did walls first and once they were all done, got the electrician in to do the electrics. Had we done the ceiling first, we'd have needed the spark in before, and all the stud wiring would have been dangling all over the place. Doing the walls before the spark meant all the cables are run pretty much to the exact location first time. 

No electrics in yet. I was planning like you to put all the stud in and then run the wiring.

 

The reason for steel over timber is that I'm below ground and *no where* near waterproof. I feel 'happier' with non rot, no soaking up water steel. Though timber is easier to work with - the steel does seem 'flimsy' but once boarded (think I will do OSB on walls and 'thicken up' for bathroom sanitary ware and kitchen wall units) does seem quite sturdy.

 

Also (as an aside) I found a mega tool for cutting all the sockets/switches out. It's an instant purchase for me once available!!! (wood blades apparently on the way).

 

https://quadsaw.com

 

Nothing to do with my original post BTW!!! xD

Edited by pocster
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Fwiw, I'd 100% recommend ceilings first. 

1) cables

2) plumbing

3) foam gap filling

4) ceilings

5) perimeter track on floor and ceiling plumb and square ( a laser is your friend )

6) insulate if / where required and board walls putting either full osb sheets as cladding or pattresses where rads etc are going. 

Are you going metal as your not A1 with woodwork? 

 

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5 minutes ago, pocster said:

No electrics in yet. I was planning like you to put all the stud in and then run the wiring.

 

The reason for steel over timber is that I'm below ground and *no where* near waterproof. I feel 'happier' with non rot, no soaking up water steel. Though timber is easier to work with - the steel does seem 'flimsy' but once boarded (think I will do OSB on walls and 'thicken up' for bathroom sanitary ware and kitchen wall units) does seem quite sturdy.

 

Also (as an aside) I found a mega tool for cutting all the sockets/switches out. It's an instant purchase for me once available!!! (wood blades apparently on the way).

 

https://quadsaw.com

 

Nothing to do with my original post BTW!!! xD

£200 are you nuts ?!?o.O

Buy a level and a padsaw for change of £30 ;)

 

Right. Describe properly what your dealing with. 

What do you mean no where near waterproof. ?

Steel will eventually rust I assure you, especially where you cut the ends :(

I think your heading in the wrong direction here, so let's discuss first ?

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9 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

Fwiw, I'd 100% recommend ceilings first. 

1) cables

2) plumbing

3) foam gap filling

4) ceilings

5) perimeter track on floor and ceiling plumb and square ( a laser is your friend )

6) insulate if / where required and board walls putting either full osb sheets as cladding or pattresses where rads etc are going. 

Are you going metal as your not A1 with woodwork? 

 

My wood working skills are ok for stud :D.

But as I'm below ground and in an inch of water...... also the steel is cheaper in my experience than timer. Also the steel is always straight!. Nothing worse than a delivery of wood and then when you install a length if has that nice bend in it :|

 

Also, sometime ago I needed to get basic electrics in so that needed some wall fixing. As it's like a swimming pool sometimes; steel stud became my friend.

Edited by pocster
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3 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

£200 are you nuts ?!?o.O

Buy a level and a padsaw for change of £30 ;)

 

Right. Describe properly what your dealing with. 

What do you mean no where near waterproof. ?

Steel will eventually rust I assure you, especially where you cut the ends :(

I think your heading in the wrong direction here, so let's discuss first ?

LOL!

But it cuts square holes!!! - it's a nice toy!!! xDxD

 

My build is 2 storey. 1 storey completely below ground. The 'ground' storey hasn't been built yet :D

Therefore my below ground storey has the dimpled wall membrane and eventually an internal drain to remove any water penetration - hence timber not much use yet (Yes; I could make it all 100% waterproof and then use timber - but where's the fun in that!)

Edited by pocster
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Are these non-structural? If so (regardless of steel/timber), why not wait until it's watertight? We didn't put any of our studwalls in until we were well past Wind and Water tight - partly for similar reasons to you but mainly to give us flexibiity once we got a feel for the internal space. 

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7 minutes ago, jamiehamy said:

Are these non-structural? If so (regardless of steel/timber), why not wait until it's watertight? We didn't put any of our studwalls in until we were well past Wind and Water tight - partly for similar reasons to you but mainly to give us flexibiity once we got a feel for the internal space. 

Nope not structural.

 

Because I did a small portion of steel stud to support fuse box, main water inlet etc. I ordered in bulk otherwise wasn't cost effective. The fact the steel stud doesn't fix directly to the structural wall I like (less fixings in dimpled membrane the better) ; though TBH the same applies to timber.

 

I think we've all gone off on a bit a tangent here (though I appreciate all the help); I was just wondering (for the future) walls or ceilings first......

I wasn't intending on doing anything major until I was water tight (or near to that).

Edited by pocster
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13 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

@jamiehamy

Didn't you have solid ceiling structure so 'had' to do walls first?

True, however it was only an additional factor - we could have done the wiring first and all the wires would have hung down from the 'right places' - we would then have sheeted the ceiling with minimal cutting of boards. The downside there was that we'd be doing the wiring earlier than we needed to and it was an effective 'point of no return' for a lot of different things. 

 

 

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