Gone West Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 13 hours ago, Onoff said: Machine screws! (Haven't got a point). Correct, but that's what I found, in that Engineers seem to have their own vocabulary for fixings and the the rest of the world use different terms. Other than Engineers if it's got a self tapping thread, it's a screw and if it's got a machine thread it's a bolt. If it's got a self tapping thread it's got a point on the end. It doesn't seem anything to do with the type of head, or length of thread except for Engineers who can call similar fixings, bolts or screws because they have different heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, epsilonGreedy said: I am struggling to find Spax stock for 4x30 and 4x35 countersunk partial thread screws in stainless. back to the original question!, did you find any?, if not perhaps drill a clearance hole so the fully threaded ones pull the bits tight (it’s what I do). Edited February 16, 2021 by joe90 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No3-4-6-8-10-12-A2-Stainless-Steel-Slotted-Flat-Countersunk-Wood-Screws-DIN-97/322452558445 There you go, I just used wood bolts in the search. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Well done @SteamyTea, I think before posidrive was invented all slotted screws were like that, plain shank (I hate using slotted screws now unless it’s antique furniture as posi etc is so much easier to use with dril drivers, can’t remember the last time I put a wood screw in with a screwdriver!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 58 minutes ago, joe90 said: back to the original question!, did you find any?, if not perhaps drill a clearance hole so the fully threaded ones pull the bits tight (it’s what I do). I think so thanks, that German supplier web site looks like the answer and the ex. shipping prices are far lower than Amazon. Currently I am preparing for putting the proper roof cover on and debating whether to hire/buy a gas nailer for fixing the battens or hammering or screwing them in. Then I have to work up a solution for fixing the trad wooden box eaves in place. Once all of this is decided I can send an order to Germany. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe90 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 I bought a paslode first fix second hand and it’s been invaluable and I recon I could get most of my money back if I sold it (but loathed to). But a decent hammer and ring shank nails won’t take you that long to do. Seriously, good hammers are worth their weight, cheap ones are hard work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 49 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No3-4-6-8-10-12-A2-Stainless-Steel-Slotted-Flat-Countersunk-Wood-Screws-DIN-97/322452558445 There you go, I just used wood bolts in the search. Thanks however I adopted Spax screws at the start of my self build. They are a derivation of the Torx head with an extra rounded bump at the end of the driver bit that helps keep the screw on the bit as things are aligned. Buying a full 2400 set of Spax screws in a sub divided briefcase holder was one of my better selfbuild decisions, it contains everything from 3.5 x 16 up to 6 x 120 screws so I never waste time running off to Screwfix mid job. It was only missing two sizes, 5 x 50 and 5 x 70. The Makita pulse driver (a gentle impact driver) is also a wondrous invention though it struggles above 5 x 70. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 6 minutes ago, joe90 said: I bought a paslode first fix second hand and it’s been invaluable and I recon I could get most of my money back if I sold it (but loathed to). But a decent hammer and ring shank nails won’t take you that long to do. Seriously, good hammers are worth their weight, cheap ones are hard work. The roof truss erection team laughed at my hammer which is a wooden shank Stanley purchased back in 1985. I am going to need a top notch hammer for nailing 2500 natural slates. (Not seen slate hooks used in Lincolnshire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteamyTea Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 8 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said: Thanks however I adopted Spax screws at the start of my self build. They are a derivation of the Torx head with an extra rounded bump at the end of the driver bit that helps keep the screw on the bit as things are aligned. Like these on the Spax wedsite. https://www.spax.com/uk/products/stainless-steel/flat-countersunk-head/stainless-steel-screw-4-x-35-mm-200-pieces-partial-thread-flat-countersunk-head-t-star-plus-t20-4cut-stainless-steel-a2-4197000400356/pid-2255/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epsilonGreedy Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 4 minutes ago, SteamyTea said: Like these on the Spax wedsite. https://www.spax.com/uk/products/stainless-steel/flat-countersunk-head/stainless-steel-screw-4-x-35-mm-200-pieces-partial-thread-flat-countersunk-head-t-star-plus-t20-4cut-stainless-steel-a2-4197000400356/pid-2255/ Yup that's the one. I don't think Spax UK do retail orders. BTW the video on that page illustrates the special Spax bump on the bit that reduces screw wobble on the bit which is useful when your other arm is dedicated to life preservation while perched on a roof truss and teeth are holding the next screw. My neighbours were probably wondering why I climbed up my roof for some impromptu DIY dental surgery. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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