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Electronic isolation valve for stock cock


joth

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So, our mains feed / stock cock has had a cock up and ended up underneath some kitchen units.

To minimize the number of times I need to get at it, I'd like to put in a quarter turn isolation valve plus an electronic isolation valve. This will allow a shut off switch to be put in an easy to access location (maybe with the oven isolators, or smoke alarm silence button, or MVHR boost). And also allows me to wire in an automated cut off if I add water leak sensors any time in the future. 

 

Sensible idea? Any suggests for make / model?
It's got to fit on a 22mm pipe.

I went off of sure-stop because it can't be automated (except via their proprietary cloud system), my plumber doesn't like push-fit, and there's rumours of them being susceptible to limescale build up. (We're in s superhard water area)

 

I found this one - any issues?

https://www.solenoid-valve.world/connexion/1-electrically-actuated-ball-valve-9-24vacdc-or-110-240vac-abvm08s

  • I presume in need the 1" thread, although 3/4" could also work?
  • I can't decide if fail open or fail closed is more sensible? We don't often get power cuts, and I might have a small UPS for the home automation controller one day anyway, so leaning towards the fail-closed 24V version. (or I guess the 3 wire one makes even more sense if I'm really getting a UPS) 
  • The position feedback and manual override probably isn't needed but may as well get them both anyway if there's no longterm drawback to having them there just-in-case.

 

TIA!  :)

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On 19/01/2021 at 16:29, ProDave said:

As mentioned...

I went off of sure-stop because it can't be automated (except via their proprietary cloud system), my plumber doesn't like push-fit, and there's rumours of them being susceptible to limescale build up. (We're in a super-hard water area)

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  • 2 years later...
On 19/01/2021 at 16:27, joth said:

So, our mains feed / stock cock has had a cock up and ended up underneath some kitchen units.

To minimize the number of times I need to get at it, I'd like to put in a quarter turn isolation valve plus an electronic isolation valve. This will allow a shut off switch to be put in an easy to access location (maybe with the oven isolators, or smoke alarm silence button, or MVHR boost). And also allows me to wire in an automated cut off if I add water leak sensors any time in the future. 

 

Sensible idea? Any suggests for make / model?
It's got to fit on a 22mm pipe.

I went off of sure-stop because it can't be automated (except via their proprietary cloud system), my plumber doesn't like push-fit, and there's rumours of them being susceptible to limescale build up. (We're in s superhard water area)

 

I found this one - any issues?

https://www.solenoid-valve.world/connexion/1-electrically-actuated-ball-valve-9-24vacdc-or-110-240vac-abvm08s

  • I presume in need the 1" thread, although 3/4" could also work?
  • I can't decide if fail open or fail closed is more sensible? We don't often get power cuts, and I might have a small UPS for the home automation controller one day anyway, so leaning towards the fail-closed 24V version. (or I guess the 3 wire one makes even more sense if I'm really getting a UPS) 
  • The position feedback and manual override probably isn't needed but may as well get them both anyway if there's no longterm drawback to having them there just-in-case.

 

TIA!  :)

 

Did you go for this in the end Joth? Just come across the same product and seems like a sensible idea for backup flood prevention in the plant room. I'm inclined to go with fail open as wont want to lose water as well as power in the event of an outage! I also considered the option with leak detection alarm but unsure if its the right model to work with Loxone.... 

Edited by sean1933
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10 hours ago, sean1933 said:

 

Did you go for this in the end Joth? Just come across the same product and seems like a sensible idea for backup flood prevention in the plant room. I'm inclined to go with fail open as wont want to lose water as well as power in the event of an outage! I also considered the option with leak detection alarm but unsure if its the right model to work with Loxone.... 

https://www.bes.co.uk/watersafe-remote-water-mains-switch-leak-detector-20604/

 

This type of gadget has been discussed here previously. 

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Nickfromwales said:

https://www.bes.co.uk/watersafe-remote-water-mains-switch-leak-detector-20604/

 

This type of gadget has been discussed here previously. 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Nick. I think what differentiates Joth's suggestion is that the detection and shutting of the valve is triggered by the smart home leak sensors located throughout the property. Rather than an integrated alarm/detection unit that you are tied to their protocols/cloud controls etc. https://www.solenoid-valve.world/connexion/1-electrically-actuated-ball-valve-9-24vacdc-or-110-240vac-abvm08s This unit can have a manual control added to bypass in case of a fault.

 

Have you seen any units like this ever installed?

 

I did wonder if a standard 2 zone actuator could do the same job but decided not to go down that rabbit hole as not its designed purpose (or pressure I imagine).

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, sean1933 said:

 

Thanks Nick. I think what differentiates Joth's suggestion is that the detection and shutting of the valve is triggered by the smart home leak sensors located throughout the property. Rather than an integrated alarm/detection unit that you are tied to their protocols/cloud controls etc. https://www.solenoid-valve.world/connexion/1-electrically-actuated-ball-valve-9-24vacdc-or-110-240vac-abvm08s This unit can have a manual control added to bypass in case of a fault.

 

Have you seen any units like this ever installed?

 

I did wonder if a standard 2 zone actuator could do the same job but decided not to go down that rabbit hole as not its designed purpose (or pressure I imagine).

 

 

 

Telford use a 2-port zone valve on their ( Tristore iirc ) which is on the cold mains side before the manual filling loop ( the Tristore is a manual fill combination thermal store with an open header tank atop ). Maybe look at the tech manual for it and see which particular model of ZV they use. TBH it's the ONLY place I've ever seen a true 2PZV on a potable supply, but if it's good enough for 1000's of tanks to go out to the UK from Telford that should be good enough for anyone to feel happy with it.

 

I've only ever read about the Grohe unit here, hence me linking those threads FYI.

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I imagine a motorised ball valve would have been the weapon of choice if I had to install something like this for a paying client, which the Water-safe unit is by the look of it. A paddle doesn't seem like a good option for this afaic, as the cold mains may be too high ( static ) for this to not pass a little maybe. 

Also may be good to check if Telford specify a 3bar PRedV on the incoming cold mains to allow their 2PZV to function properly.  ;) 

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