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Smart heating control options


Declan52

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At present I use a simple heating control to turn the heating on to my rads upstairs. I only use the rad section of it and not the central heating side. I have all my time programmes set so it comes on in the morning etc but my main issue is I would like the option to hit it to the boost option for an HR in the evening if I need to. At present I have to get off my fat ass and go upstairs and go into the hotpress and manually press the boost button. Now with getting lazy I would like to do this via an app on my phone. 

So what are my options. At present this is the controller I have

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Danfoss-Randall-FP715SI-Heating-Programmer/dp/B001HB9LAG

 

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Shelly 1 could do it - bypass the live to the feed (unless it’s a Nv switch ..?) and can do by pressing a button or phone / app etc. Cheap and easy for about £10. 
 

You could go all the way and replace the whole of the system with a Shelly with a thermostatic head, you can programme them and they will

also communicate with other MQTT devices. 

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1 hour ago, Declan52 said:

Would you take £5950 and a free tour of a hotpress.


For you I’ll do it for £59.50 as they are a doddle ..! They need a good set of eyes to see the terminals and a small screwdriver so I tend to make them up on the kitchen table with some tails on and use Wagos to connect them. Make a power fly lead using a plug and you can test and programme on the bench first as they keep their memory for ages. 
 

The main issue I found was getting it to recognize on the phone app, so use an Android tablet or laptop - also worth adding your phone hotspot as a secondary internet provider so if you lose the internet signal you can still access the unit. 
 

Monitoring is good too - I’ve got a couple (one is a 1PM with the sensor header) and it gives me the outputs of the sensors over a period of time and you can download the data too. Nice touch is the override switch - if you go for a retractive switch it means it can never be left “On” and lock out the controls from the app or the timer. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

So just to tidy this up my Shelly 1 arrived and I set it up. Very easy and well impressed so far. Here are a few pics of its setup and the app that controls it. 

IMG_20210125_151824.thumb.jpg.d4c488be5dee1a2b79b17344c7e4bf76.jpg

I have a live and 2 neutral coming in plus a live going out and 2 earth. The live coming in gets split so a live goes to the L port to power it and another to the I for the input. The neutral goes to the N. The output then is the live return from the O. For tidiness I have them in a 2g box, a single would have been fine but had a double so used it. A blank face plate then covers it up. 

With the app I can then call it whatever it needs to be, lights or heating or whatever it's purpose is. By clicking on the correct option I can then set a weekly schedule to come on when ever I want. As a further option I can connect to the Shelly via the cloud and turn the rads on when I'm not using my home network. 

Screenshot_2021-01-25-15-18-34-352_allterco.bg.shelly.jpg

Screenshot_2021-01-25-15-18-39-396_allterco.bg.shelly.jpg

Screenshot_2021-01-25-15-18-45-731_allterco.bg.shelly.jpg

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2 minutes ago, Declan52 said:

But not sure it's stored on the device or the app.

Interesting.

 

I wonder what happens if you use a local network, with the settings on the phone, then the power goes when you are out.

Not sure if that would be an unusual scenario or not.

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Doesn’t matter. The only difference is that the device needs to get to a time server at some point to recalibrate the NTS event, and you need it to have internet access if you want it to talk to the cloud and have remote access. 
 

@Declan52 the Shelly Temp header is very good with 3 DS18S20 sensors attached as you can let it make decisions on the temperatures. 

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There is some fun and games with some of the dimmer ones - there is a good Facebook support group with the developers on it. 
 

The difference is that if you install the Shelly in the ceiling rose or roof space rather than behind the switch you don’t have the hassle of not having a neutral so you don’t need to use the Shelly1L which they have had issues of not working correctly. That way you can just use it’s a switch wire as normal on the SL line. 

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