Double stud wall required?

[NeilScotland]

Hi All,

 

I'm creating a very small 'divider wall'  (total width = 600mm) - which will hide the side of our soon-to-be kitchen (on one side) and will house shelves on the other. The wall is a sort of divider between our new extension and the old house. Old is concrete, new is wood /plasterboard. 

 

I have many questions - so I thought it maybe easier to just list them out and hear from your experience. I'm fairly novice but competent. 

 

1. To get the depth (300mm) I'm thinking two stud walls. Is that good practice? 
2. I'll use some 4x2 to 'join' the two walls and 2x2 for the noggins and frames for the shelving to go in after plasterwork
3. What type of screws should I use to go straight into the concrete? Do I need to pre-drill and use rawlplugs or is there a special screw that can go straight in?
4. You may see a lip at the top /ceiling (between old and new house) it's about 15mm and unfortunately it is around the center of the 4x2 frame that I will place on the ceiling. Should I add some sort of shims here or just screw it on - and although the frames wont align perfectly the plasterboard will hide these discrepancies....

 

Hope to hear from you, 

thanks,

Neil 

 

Edited November 10, 2020 by NeilScotland

[Temp]

1 an 2 are fine

3 I think this type screws direct into concrete. Various sizes available..

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-bright-zinc-plated-carbon-steel-concrete-bolts-m10-x-100mm-10-pack/5800p

4 Have you considered another layer of plasterboard over whole room to get rid of the step? Or nail together two bits of 2x4 to make a bit with a matching 15 mm step in it.

Edited November 11, 2020 by Temp

[Onoff]

I used this type, had tbh a few misses where they just spun in the hole:

 

https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-100mm-100-pack/3839h

 

An impact driver is a useful tool. For both making your stud frame and the concrete screws. You can probably get one to go on whatever cordless battery system you have. No no

 

Does that 25mm step extend across the rest of the ceiling i.e beyobd the stud wall? You can get 15mm plasterboard.

[NeilScotland]

Thanks Temp, Onoff - i'll see if I can source those screws (I'm in Amsterdam here - it's just finding the Dutch word sometimes that is difficult! ? )

 

I use DeWalt - so I was actually going to get an impact driver for this project. If you have a recommendation that would be great. I always see two offered together and never know which one is good for me. 

 

On the step - actually, it's only at this point and about 800mm wide. if you look across the whole ceiling at this point it narrows to within plaster-skimming-range (few mm)......

I mentioned it to the builders, they said it's just the shape of the old house.... not sure I buy that haha. 

I don't think a layer of plasterboard is going to work - what you don't see behind (the new build, in the other direction) is about 22sq m of ceiling. 

 

@Temp - when you say join two pieces of 2x4, I'm not sure I fully understand this? 

 

I guess one option would be to run my top plate through my saw to make it a little thinner. 

Once it's all in place, the plasterer is coming to skim both ceilings - to have them match (all in all it's about 50 sq m of ceiling). 

 

thanks again, pic for reference. 

Neil 

 

[Dave Jones]

actually impact  gun isnt good for those plugless conc screws it shatters the thread they cut, a drill driver is much better i found.

 

Put some sticksall on the soul/floor/wall plates and it will never move.

 

https://www.toolstation.com/stixall-adhesive-sealant-290ml/p77137

 

 

[NeilScotland]

Not so keen on using an adhesive if possible! much prefer screws..... i'm not in a hurry, so I coudl always predrill etc. 

 

thanks!!