Replace or clad old fences?

[ReX]

Hi, 

 

I have a narrow and long garden (5.5m * 25m). The fences have concrete posts, concrete gravel boards and 1.83*183m wood panels.

The fences are 3 years old but not properly installed, especially on one side, the posts are not even in line (not sure how the previous owner did it so poorly).

 

I want to give the whole garden a new modern look (e.g. I've just finished the new tiled deck and will soon install GRP planters).

 

What would you recommend between:

• fix the current concrete posts (at least the ones that are completely out of line) and clad them on my side (leaving the existing panels and posts). The cladding will be fixed to the existing concrete posts (I have seen metal clamps for this)
• replace the whole fences, posts and boards with a modern solution

 

Both fences are shared, but on one side the neighbour is not willing to contribute to the upgrade and on the other side they would like to split if we match the design they have on their other fence (I am not very convinced - it is all wood, see below).

 

In case of cladding, maintenance and replacement of the wood panels can happen by pulling out the panels from the top and slotting them in, when needed.

 

Additionally, I don't want to deal with rotten/greyed wood and wood treatment so I was keen to use composite products. I really liked:

https://ecoscapeuk.co.uk/products/composite-cladding/slatted/ or https://www.pavingsuperstore.co.uk/garden-and-landscaping-materials/garden-landscaping-materials/garden-fencing-gates-trellis-and-screening/ecoscape-uk-composite-fencing-kit-cedar.html (as cladding) or https://www.envirobuild.com/collections/composite-fencing (as new panels and new posts).

 

Any cons of using composite products?

 

Is there otherwise any wood that will last (or even outlast) composite products without the need of painting it on regular basis? Maybe pressure treated Siberian larch?

 

Thanks

[Mr Punter]

Jolly expensive and I doubt the neighbour would chip in half.  Posts often are first to fail, timber or concrete.

 

For a quarter of the price you could get pressure treated timber.  15 year rot guarantee. Should last a while. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pressure-Treated-Overlap-Fence-Panel---6-x-6ft/p/145608

[Temp]

+1

 

Fix the badly positioned/leaning fence posts and replace the panels.  Check the panels will fit as there are some differences in dimensions. When you erect a fence you normally start one end and install post-panel-post-panel etc You don't do all the posts and then fit panels as the dimensions can vary.

[Declan52]

How much are they out of line??

You could use long bolts and pack out some 4*2 or 6*2 treated to get you where you need to be assuming they are maybe 50mm -100mm max out of line.

I did this a few weeks ago using M10 bolts and 4*2. You use the 4*2 as your new post and it gets set level and all in line and gets bolted to the wonky concrete post. You can see the old posts sticking out the back on the last two posts in the pic below. 

[ReX]

2 hours ago, Mr Punter said:

Jolly expensive and I doubt the neighbour would chip in half. 

 

That was the main reason for asking for wood options. With the first composite product it would cost me around 10k just for the cladding (50meters, 180cm high).

 

Quote

Posts often are first to fail, timber or concrete.

 

Good to know.

 

Quote

For a quarter of the price you could get pressure treated timber.  15 year rot guarantee. Should last a while. https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Pressure-Treated-Overlap-Fence-Panel---6-x-6ft/p/145608

 

These fences have the same design of the ones I have now, I am looking for some more modern look (like in the picture attached).

 

2 hours ago, Temp said:

Fix the badly positioned/leaning fence posts and replace the panels.  Check the panels will fit as there are some differences in dimensions. When you erect a fence you normally start one end and install post-panel-post-panel etc You don't do all the posts and then fit panels as the dimensions can vary.

 

Few reasons I am a little bit more incline toward cladding:

• I could leave some non perfect posts as they are and just fix the really bad ones (less digging)
• No need to carry through the house 20+ old panels and 20+ new panels (this is the only access to the garden)
• I could hide the unpleasant concrete posts and have a final look as in the link above.

And pretty much I could consider to do the job myself.

 

1 hour ago, Declan52 said:

How much are they out of line??

You could use long bolts and pack out some 4*2 or 6*2 treated to get you where you need to be assuming they are maybe 50mm -100mm max out of line.

I did this a few weeks ago using M10 bolts and 4*2. You use the 4*2 as your new post and it gets set level and all in line and gets bolted to the wonky concrete post. You can see the old posts sticking out the back on the last two posts in the pic below. 

 

I like it - no digging and no concrete heavy lifting. If I do as you suggest I could have the timbers posts all in line and fix the cladding against them.

 

Which pre-treated wood battens should I get to get a finish as in the picture attached? Will it last?

 

Edited July 16, 2020 by ReX
attached photo

[Declan52]

58 minutes ago, ReX said:

 

I like it - no digging and no concrete heavy lifting. If I do as you suggest I could have the timbers posts all in line and fix the cladding against them.

 

Which pre-treated wood battens should I get to get a finish as in the picture attached? Will it last?

 

It will depend on how far out they are. But hopefully it's an easier solution that digging them all out. 

You can use 4*4 posts instead on 4*2 of your concerned about the strength. Will just mean longer bolts.

[ReX]

16 hours ago, Declan52 said:

It will depend on how far out they are. But hopefully it's an easier solution that digging them all out. 

You can use 4*4 posts instead on 4*2 of your concerned about the strength. Will just mean longer bolts.

 

Having a look at them, I think the vast majority can be sorted in this way but 4-5 should be digged out and reinstalled because they are so out that also the panels tend to move.

 

As for the battens to get the effect I want, would Siberian larch be a good choice?

[Mr Punter]

15 minutes ago, ReX said:

As for the battens to get the effect I want, would Siberian larch be a good choice?

 

Again you may find that quality pressure treated planed softwood works out a lot cheaper.  If you get a decent wood stain you will not have to put up with it going manky grey.

[ReX]

16 minutes ago, Mr Punter said:

 

Again you may find that quality pressure treated planed softwood works out a lot cheaper.  If you get a decent wood stain you will not have to put up with it going manky grey.

 

Do you mean something cheaper than Siberian larch?

 

Something like this?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Treated-Sawn-Timber---22-x-47-x-3000-mm-Pack-of-8/p/133672

[Mr Punter]

Either will be fine.  I think the Siberian larch varies in durability depending on where it is grown.  Denser in cold climates.