Pocster Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Ah bum ! Drill snagged one of my radial socket cables ! . Assume I don’t have to re thread an entire new cable through ? . What’s the proper way to join this ? I.e a way an electrician would be happy with ? this Ok ? Won’t have any access ; so needs to be fix and forget https://www.screwfix.com/p/debox-in-line-connector-box/8692H?tc=ST2&ds_kid=92700050366088830&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249401&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI46ebq_y35wIViZntCh2eRAhlEAQYASABEgJi-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJNewton Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Given the inaccessibility anything with screw terminals won't suffice as there'd nbe no means for inspection and re-tightening should they creep/loosen over time. One option is crimps, but I wouldn't recommend that without a decent tool and some experience, and so I'd recommend instead something with spring loaded terminals. Wago do a 'Wagobox' that is classed as maintenance free when used with their terminals and Ashley do some maintenance free junction boxes with builtin terminals. Debox also appear to do a maintenance free version of the one you linked to. Apologies for the lack of specific part numbers and/or links but I am posting from my mobile so trying to be brief! Can post further details later if required. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Crimp new wires in a staggered joint and use heat shrink sleeving to provide the double insulation that's required. This has to be a maintenance free connection, so screw terminals (as used in that connector box) aren't allowed. I have a feeling that @Onoff posted some photos of a proper crimped and sleeved inaccessible cable joint some time ago, but I can't find them from a quick search. Not hard to do, and by staggering the joints you can keep things from getting too bulky under the final sleeve. If you have room, then Wago connectors fitted inside a Wagobox are classed as maintenance free, I believe. There's also the Hager/Ashley maintenance free connectors (same product, different name) like this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) 23 minutes ago, Jeremy Harris said: Crimp new wires in a staggered joint and use heat shrink sleeving to provide the double insulation that's required. This has to be a maintenance free connection, so screw terminals (as used in that connector box) aren't allowed. I have a feeling that @Onoff posted some photos of a proper crimped and sleeved inaccessible cable joint some time ago, but I can't find them from a quick search. Not hard to do, and by staggering the joints you can keep things from getting too bulky under the final sleeve. If you have room, then Wago connectors fitted inside a Wagobox are classed as maintenance free, I believe. There's also the Hager/Ashley maintenance free connectors (same product, different name) like this: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ803.html I think that junction box you link to will be perfect . I have plenty of space so that’s not an issue . Think I might get a few of those “ just in case “ I.e for next time !! Edited February 4, 2020 by pocster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 The original thread had Photobucket pics in so no use now. I'll redo it sometime. Meanwhile here's the gist: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/9640-electricians-insulator-stripping-tool/page/2/?tab=comments#comment-164203 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) See here: https://talk.electricianforum.co.uk/topic/25191-plastering-over-wagos-or-crimps-or-ashly-or-line/?tab=comments#comment-343409 Edited February 4, 2020 by Onoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onoff Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 Butt! Ring! ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Harris Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 I quite like the soldered heat shrink ones. Last ones I used were supplied with the cable jointing kit for our water pump. Easy to use, just make a staggered joint (as you've shown, @Onoff) but you just push the wires into the soldered shrink butt splices and heat them up with the heat gun set to a high temperature, so that they shrink and make a soldered joint at the same time. I also prefer the adhesive lined heat shrink over the other stuff, as well as sealing things up it also adds a fair bit of mechanical strength, in case the cable gets pulled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 Maintenance free junction boxes ordered ! thanks all ! Sparky won’t have a fit now !! ?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carrerahill Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, pocster said: Ah bum ! Drill snagged one of my radial socket cables ! . Assume I don’t have to re thread an entire new cable through ? . What’s the proper way to join this ? I.e a way an electrician would be happy with ? this Ok ? Won’t have any access ; so needs to be fix and forget https://www.screwfix.com/p/debox-in-line-connector-box/8692H?tc=ST2&ds_kid=92700050366088830&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249401&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI46ebq_y35wIViZntCh2eRAhlEAQYASABEgJi-_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Honestly, given it's a new build, if you can I would replace it - another option is to replace a section of it and add another socket somewhere so you can make sure of the now shorter cable and thread a new bit in. Of course you can join it, but, I never like it. You could simply fit a 1G pattress box connect with Wago's and then fit a blanking plate. But then you have a blinking blank plate. Basically it needs to be accessible unless you opt for a maintenance free option. I have in the past done a staggered joint, soldered and heat-shrink it all. What the regs say: Every electrical joint and connection shall be of proper construction as regards conductance, insulation, mechanical strength and protection. Every connection shall be accessible for inspection, testing and maintenance, except for the following: (i) A joint designed to be buried in the ground (ii) A compound-filled or encapsulated joint 146 (iii) A connection between a cold tail and the heating element as in ceiling heating, floor heating or a trace heating system (iv) A joint made by welding, soldering, brazing or appropriate compression tool (v) Joints or connections made in equipment by the manufacturer of the product and not intended to be inspected or maintained (vi) Equipment complying with BS 5733 for a maintenance-free accessory and marked with the symbol MF and installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. Edited February 4, 2020 by Carrerahill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pocster Posted February 5, 2020 Author Share Posted February 5, 2020 Replaced that cable in the end . Still ordered 4 of those maintenance free connectors - bound to come in use at some point . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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