eaves detail required for no fascia

[Simplysimon]

hi folks,

 

does anyone have a detail for an eaves details for counter and tile batten but without a fascia? i'm trying to get this into my head and am swithering between leaving it open with insect mesh for ventilation, however, worried about the slates lifting and closing it off but can't figure how to finish cutting around the gutter brackets. i'm looking at putting the slates on battens as opposed to nailing through the roof covering as it's not sarking (medite vent) and it doesn't take a nail well.

 

cheers

[ToughButterCup]

This is what I'm doing....

With the agreement of the architect, trim off the foam, measure and fit board (tanalised) between each rafter, screw into each rafter.

Tea.Medals.

[Simplysimon]

2 hours ago, AnonymousBosch said:

This is what I'm doing....

With the agreement of the architect, trim off the foam, measure and fit board (tanalised) between each rafter, screw into each rafter.

Tea.Medals.

cheers, unfortunately it's the bit above the roofing membrane i'm looking at, when battened and counter battened there is a void which the wind will get under, great for ventilation, however, not so good for keeping slates in place.

[Temp]

In the case of tiles... The bottom edge of one row of tiles normally rests on top of the row below, but obviously at the bottom there is no tile to rest on so they usually rest on the top of the fascia. If there is no fascia a triangular batten is used to maintain the pitch. 

 

 

Note the membrane goes over the top of the triangular batten and into the gutter.  So in the case of counter battens the counter battens would need to stop above the triangular batten.

 

[Temp]

Perhaps beware of the issue raised in this diagram if your pitch is low...

 

http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips83.htm

 

 

 

[ToughButterCup]

15 hours ago, Simplysimon said:

.. not so good for keeping slates in place.

Aha! 

We have Nulok, and that uses metal battens and clips. Super easy to fit and repair.

[joe90]

Have you seen this...... http://www.traditionalmetalroof.co.uk/detail-drawings/4587005754

[Simplysimon]

8 hours ago, joe90 said:

Have you seen this...... http://www.traditionalmetalroof.co.uk/detail-drawings/4587005754

cheers

that may be very useful

 

10 hours ago, AnonymousBosch said:

Aha! 

We have Nulok, and that uses metal battens and clips. Super easy to fit and repair.

i'd thought of nu-lok as well, though is there not something about having to go and get the materials. do you not still have the same problem of wind getting under the slates so curious as to how you are minimising that issue or is it not an issue? have you counter battened the roof prior to fitting the strips?

[Simplysimon]

14 hours ago, Temp said:

In the case of tiles... The bottom edge of one row of tiles normally rests on top of the row below, but obviously at the bottom there is no tile to rest on so they usually rest on the top of the fascia. If there is no fascia a triangular batten is used to maintain the pitch. 

 

 

Note the membrane goes over the top of the triangular batten and into the gutter.  So in the case of counter battens the counter battens would need to stop above the triangular batten.

 

hadn't considered a tilting fillet as i've not slated a roof on battens previously, i suppose it would work, the low pitch isn't an issue and that detail is appalling, for the sake of changing the angle of the fillet.

[joe90]

56 minutes ago, Simplysimon said:

same problem of wind getting under the slates

Our  builder insisted on using slate clips rather than nails in my windy location, also easier to replace slates if needed.