Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi All,

 

My joist hangers are fixed (cant believe how many nails it took)

 

I now need to cross brace them to stop twist. The problem is that I can only work from below and a lot of the joists are already twisted / not square / bent / skewed etc so when trying to fit solid noggins its nigh on impossible. I have tried fitting 38mm x 38mm timber herringbone struts (using the method where you measure the depth, mark on the joist then place the strut across and mark the angles -  this works fine until you try the strut in position as the tops of the joists are all over the place in relation to the bottom so the angles / sizes are slightly off.

 

Does any one have a better method to cut / fit timber herringbone struts?

Could I use the metal pre made struts but fix the top of them to the side of the joist and fix the bottom to the under side of the joist? - See picture below

 

https://www.toolstation.com/herringbone-joist-strut/p67259

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks, Wozza.

 

Brace.jpg

Edited by wozza
Posted

You should be able to twist the joists back using noggins as they should square up the joists. Herringbone steel struts won’t work as they need to be on the top of the joists or will be too long 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Clamp a length of 2x4 vertically to the joist, you should be able to twist them back to plumb using it as a lever.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

if you've only just fitted the joists, why can you not work from the top? the herringbone needs to be nailed from the upper surface for the top one. when you're marking the length of the strutting it really needs to be done close to the joist ends to avoid a difference in spacing due to the timber bowing.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 28/10/2019 at 21:16, Simplysimon said:

if you've only just fitted the joists, why can you not work from the top? the herringbone needs to be nailed from the upper surface for the top one. when you're marking the length of the strutting it really needs to be done close to the joist ends to avoid a difference in spacing due to the timber bowing.

 

Joists were fitted many years ago, I have fitted a steel (removed the structural wall). The ceiling has been removed to allow for the fitting of the steel, so I can only work from below.

 

I have now fitted the herringbone timber, had to re do a few so they fitted better :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...