UFH for existing joist floors and manifolds for radiators

[Raks]

Hi All;
We need to insulate the timber joist floor rooms which have curved bay window radiators as part of renovation.
While looking for insulation boards, I came across these between joist UFH solutions:

https://www.theunderfloorheatingsto...eating-for-between-joists-or-suspended-floors

I would like to get your advice and opinions on:

- the "spreader plate" and "foil board" solutions seems easier to install but I wonder how efficient they are as there is no "thermal storage" screed.
- around 50% of the bedroom floor area is covered with king size bed and furniture so the open floor area is limited. Is this enough for the UFH efficiency?
- shall I keep the bay window radiator as a back up on a separate zone?
- I was told there are manifolds for central heating with radiator systems as well which makes zone control quite easy and efficient. Is it worth to change pipe works of the other rooms' radiators as well with centralised manifolds?

Thanks for your helps

[MikeGrahamT21]

I can't comment on the underfloor heating product, as I don't have it, but I did recently change the Wall Hung Radiator pipework at my house to a manifold system, and MLCP pipe, and its so much better, easier to control, balance and portion of radiators if I need to remove them for whatever reason.

 

We fed the pipes complete with insulation tie wrapped onto them throughout the entire house, with only a small 20cm2 hole in each room, and one access panel to give additional control, was a few hours work, and a lot of sweat and toil, but I'm really pleased with how it performs.

In answer to your question, you can use any manifold, they're all the same, this was an underfloor heating manifold, with MLCP 16mm cones

Edited October 18, 2019 by MikeGrahamT21

[Raks]

On 18/10/2019 at 09:57, MikeGrahamT21 said:

I can't comment on the underfloor heating product, as I don't have it, but I did recently change the Wall Hung Radiator pipework at my house to a manifold system, and MLCP pipe, and its so much better, easier to control, balance and portion of radiators if I need to remove them for whatever reason.

 

We fed the pipes complete with insulation tie wrapped onto them throughout the entire house, with only a small 20cm2 hole in each room, and one access panel to give additional control, was a few hours work, and a lot of sweat and toil, but I'm really pleased with how it performs.

In answer to your question, you can use any manifold, they're all the same, this was an underfloor heating manifold, with MLCP 16mm cones

Thanks, thats what I would like to do. I am considering to add actuators for each of the zone/room to have a roam-based control.

[MikeGrahamT21]

Yeah good idea, I’ve got smart TRVs in each room to do the same job

[eekoh]

@Raks Noticed this topic is a few months old so I was wondering how you’re getting on with your UFH and how it has performed? (I’m considering a similar retrofit install to an older property)

[Raks]

On 29/12/2019 at 14:02, eekoh said:

@Raks Noticed this topic is a few months old so I was wondering how you’re getting on with your UFH and how it has performed? (I’m considering a similar retrofit install to an older property)

Renovation going slow ? and UFH not installed yet.  As we are moving the kitchen to dining area as open plan,  after island and kitchen units the UFH area getting smaller. I talked with few builders/plumbers but non of them installed one with spreader plates so not much feed back from installers.  The labour intensive part would be  insulating the floor between joist. My one is not a deep sub floor  and few other service pipes, cables between them its a bit too much work . I am having a second thought on installing the UFH. 

If raising the floor level is not an issue then have a look to the following option as well:

https://wms-uk.com/systems/low-profile/ambiscreedboard-low-profile-underfloor-heating-system

 

[Temp]

We have a mix of spreader plates (under oak floor) and pipe in screed (under stone and tile). Both work ok but the spreader plate system warms up faster from cold.

 

What matters more is:

 

1) How much insulation you can put under it and what's going over it? Put as much as possible under it. If I was building again I would aim for >150mm and 200+ wouldn't be unreasonable. Some people lay 18mm Chipboard and put 14mm engineered wood on top. It would be better to just to use 21mm engineered wood on its own. Chipboard and carpet? Keep the TOG of underlay and carpet to 2.0-2.5 in total. Special underlay exists. Hessian backed carpet is better than foam rubber.

 

2) how well your house is insulated overall? At the end of the day your bill depends mainly on how much energy the house looses and the fuel used (gas, oil, electric, ASHP etc)

 

3) and if you both go to work? If house is empty during the day a faster response time may be better. That way you don't spend ages putting heat into a floor only for it to come out when you aren't there. 

 

4) it there much solar gain? If sun comes out can the heating system respond fast enough to the increased solar gain?

Edited December 31, 2019 by Temp