Soundproofing

[nod]

Just thought I’d share this with those that are looking for cheap Quick way of soundproofing 

Pictured is the standard gypliner with push fit brackets These simply screw to the side of the joists in a 400 x 1200 grid pattern 

Then clip the gypliner stud in place

You can create a void from 25 mil to 150   

[Oz07]

@nod Whats longest length of that ceiling track? I only ever see 3.6's How much is the overlap if joining together? Do you fix a channel to perimeter? Assume you always use 15mm boards with this as your not going to be able to nog the end joints of boards

[nod]

3.6 

you can join with a bit of track either side 

Or use the bg jointing clips 

no overlap

[Moonshine]

Am i missing something, but that is still looks like a rigid connection from the ceiling to the joist.

 

If you are going for enhanced acoustics and have the luxury of up to 150mm space available, its better to have a completely independent ceiling or hang the frame from GAH hangers or equivalent, with some insulation above the plasterboard.

 

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gypframe-acoustic-hangers?tab0=0

[nod]

14 minutes ago, Moonshine said:

Am i missing something, but that is still looks like a rigid connection from the ceiling to the joist.

 

If you are going for enhanced acoustics and have the luxury of up to 150mm space available, its better to have a completely independent ceiling or hang the frame from GAH hangers or equivalent, with some insulation above the plasterboard.

We are covering rigged ducting and fireproofed beams So we haven’t the luxury of 150 on the whole ceiling 

In places we have only 10 mil

The perforated  hangers are so fine You will get only a limited amount of ST

 

 

https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/gypframe-acoustic-hangers?tab0=0

[AdamSee]

looks good. I can see how it would have some good acoustic performances. I guess it also gives the option of completely overseeing the ceiling with rockwool to help as well.

 

How come you decided to lower your ceiling?

 

I'm was planning on using this system to do my living room ceiling as I need to lower it 100mm to make space for some semi rigid ducting and various other pipes. But I'm still a bit lost as to the best method to fit the perimeter track. Should I dot and dab the walls first getting it nice and flat, then fit the track using some long rawl plugs? Im guessing that as long as I drill through the continuous strip of adhesive at the top of the board, I shouldn't have a problem. The other option is trying to fit to very uneven old brickwork.

 

 

[Moonshine]

Quote

The perforated  hangers are so fine You will get only a limited amount of ST

 

I am going to disagree with you on that one, they still provide a rigid connection from joist to ceiling, it only takes a few rigid connections to degredate the acoustic performance compared to having a truly resiliently hung or independent ceiling. 

[Moonshine]

32 minutes ago, AdamSee said:

But I'm still a bit lost as to the best method to fit the perimeter track

 

For a resiliently hung ceiling you can use a product such as isosonic ceiling strip, which is in a lot of Robust Details, installed as below (E-FC-4 Concrete party floor), however you are always going to need to penetrate the strip to fix the track to the perimeter wall. Its not perfect but minimises the flaking noise from the perimeter walls.

 

 

 

Edited October 17, 2019 by Moonshine

[nod]

5 minutes ago, Moonshine said:

 

For a resiliently hung ceiling you can use a product such as isosonic ceiling strip, which is in a lot of Robust Details, installed as below (E-FC-4 Concrete party floor), however you are always going to need to penetrate the strip to fix the track to the perimeter wall. Its not perfect but minimises the flaking noise from the perimeter walls.

 

 

 

I think you are getting confused 

The system you have googled Is for concrete You can only hang a ceiling from the underside if you fixing into concrete with tap cons knock ins etc 

With timber joists you most always fix into the sides as the fixing can pull out otherwise 

I use this system all the time Tends to be on concrete 

You still need a primary bar 

Which is 50!mil on top of anything that’s in the ceiling 

Plus 10 mil for the top hat Another 25 for brackets 

In short you need a minimum of 100 mill 

If you have ducting or steels etc 

Your going to have a build up of 75 mil Plus boards 

With the clock system you minimum is 10 mil Plus PS 

 

 

[Moonshine]

18 minutes ago, nod said:

I think you are getting confused 

The system you have googled Is for concrete You can only hang a ceiling from the underside if you fixing into concrete with tap cons knock ins etc 

With timber joists you most always fix into the sides as the fixing can pull out otherwise 

 

 

Nope i actually am not, the GAH were actually designed for timber, see below and also BG system ref (C106026).

 

https://www.gyproc.ie/sites/default/files/C106013.pdf

 

Note that the fixings are sideways into the joist.