Low Voltage Garden Lights/Security Camera Installation

[efunc]

Hello all,

 

I’m pretty uninitiated in electrics and wonder if this garden installation is possible and what I might need to achieve it. I have a garden room which I am finishing and having wiring put in. I will have 240v external sockets and bare cable that can be wired directly to a transformer if needed. I wish to place two EZVIZ EzGuard security cameras on the Garden Room. They each come with a DVE Switching Adapter (input 240v 0.5A, output +12V 1A, Efficiency Level 'V').

 

 

I also wish to run some garden lights starting from the garden room running along all along the garden wall. The first 10 - 15m of the wall will be draped in some LED fairy lights, and the next 10 - 15m further along the wall will continue with 6 bollard/post lights (about 50cm high ones). From a cursory glance it looks like 2 x 10m LED light strings would be 2W each (4W), and 6 x LED bollard lights about 2W each (12W). I would like all three zones switched independently.

 

My first question is, can these all be run off one transformer, and if so, which one is suitable? If not should I install 3 transformers? One for both cameras, one for the fairy lights and one for the bollard lights? 12 or 24V for the lights? I know there are generic transformers and also generic lights out there, and there are also bespoke ones from the likes of Techmar, in-lite and Konstsmide. Is it easy enough to work with the off-the-shelf stuff or much better to go with these all-in-one premium brands?

 

Secondly, is it possible to switch the two sets of lights independently and does this mean they must be powered by separate transformers? Can they be controlled wirelessly with a Kinetic Self-powered Wireless Remote Control and receiver like the Curv CV05 on the output of the transformer? The details are:

 

 

Wireless Receiver: CV05

Power Supply Input: 220V - 230V AC, 50/60HZ

Output Type / Channel Numbers: “On” or “Off” output of power supply / 1 channel Max Load 5A

Load Of Filament Lamp: 500W

Load Of Fluorescent Lamp: 200W

Load of LED: 200W

Static Power Consumption: <1W

[Onoff]

To control a single set of lights you'll need to go:

 

230vac > CV05 > input (230vac) side of transformer > "fairy lights".

 

So one transformer per set of lights. 

 

If using Quinetic you can get 3 gang switches even ones suitable for outside. You can also get a dual receiver, their QUR323, not a 3 channel one though sadly...

 

or

 

You CAN also get the QUR302 DC receiver that'll switch 24v DC at 5A. So trannie output into the DC 10/24 side.

 

 

I'd stick with separate trannies (& receivers) or it's one out all out.

 

Edited October 8, 2019 by Onoff

[efunc]

Thank you, that's very interesting! So to install the two sets of lights I could either run them both off one Quinetic Wireless Switch Dual Receiver or two of the single Wireless Switch Receivers. Am I right in thinking they may be too powerful for my LED lights though and I should get something better matched? I understand that LED lights are really prone to instability and for low loads (like 4w in total) I might be better with a a regulated 12v DC power supply rather than a transformer to avoid over voltage. Is that correct? There seems to be some advice about that here: https://www.lightingforgardens.com/garden-lighting-tips-led-power-supply

 

If that's the case I could presumably still get a couple of regulated PSUs for the LED lights combined with two of the CV05 receivers or Quinetic equivalents. There seems to be a lot of issues to consider with LED lighting, like voltage drop on long cable runs and proximity of transformer to the lamps, etc.

[Onoff]

The Quinetic receiver can only handle a load UP TO 5A between 10 & 24vdc. The receiver is thus not "too powerful". The receiver doesn't put anything out per se it's about what it can handle current wise.

 

If you try and draw a load over 5A via the receiver it won't handle it (well, probably not for very long).

[efunc]

Oh sorry, I completely misunderstood. I thought they were remote transformers supplying 12v or 24v for some reason. My mistake!

 

In that case I'll stick with this sort of plan: 

 

Curv CV05 receivers controlling two of these transformers:

 

https://www.gardenlightshop.com/transformers/169-techmar-12v-22w-outdoor-transformer-6046011.html

 

one for the 2 LED light strings, and one for the 6 bollard lights.

 

Excuse the building site, but this is what I'm working on:

 

 

 

The main thing I'm struggling with is the location for the wiring and transformers. I'd planned to place it all discretely in a corner of a side-shelter next to my garden room. It'll be up against the ceiling on either the 6x2 timber head plate, or the brick wall next to it. The wiring is currently wired through the rafters up to this point. The problem is I was hoping for a small discrete box containing transformers and receivers that would be fed by that mains cable. Instead all the solutions seem to require 3-pin plugs which in turn would require one of those enormous outdoor IP68 2-gang sockets. That would take up a large and prominent area of the line of sight when sat on benches in that covered area:

 

 

The lights will then travel along this wall, one zone for 10m and another zone for the next 10m:

 

 

 

Is there a way of doing the supply avoiding the need for a 2-gang mains socket?

Edited October 8, 2019 by efunc

[Jeremy Harris]

Just a note of caution regarding switching power supplies with remote receivers.  The first set of remote switches I installed in our kitchen were switching 12 V and 24 V power supplies for the LED lighting.  I used the standard light switch receivers, and both failed fairly quickly.  The problem seemed to be that the small relays in the lighting receivers weren't up to handling the surge current from the power supplies, so they failed.  I changed to using the high current receivers, which are a massive overkill for the power they are switching, and so far they've been reliable.

[efunc]

OK, thank you, that's useful to know. Which ones did you choose in the end?

 

Also, I can see the combination of outdoor socket and PSU will be a no-go now. The case will not close and the plug cannot even go into the socket all the way due to raised bezel around the enclosure:

 

 

 

 

I thought this was a fairly typical installation for outdoor devices, lights, camera, etc. How does everybody else do this then?

 

 

[Jeremy Harris]

2 minutes ago, efunc said:

OK, thank you, that's useful to know. Which ones did you choose in the end?

 

 

I used these 16 A receivers in the end, so far they have been very reliable: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR305.html

[Onoff]

Something like this perhaps?

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTPS401.html

 

[efunc]

2 hours ago, Onoff said:

Something like this perhaps?

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMTPS401.html

 

 

Thanks, I may have to do something like that, but at 355 mm (W) x 265 mm (D) x 120 mm (H) I'd have to fit it to the damp brick wall instead, and it would be something of 'a feature'! I originally envisioned something small, or hidden, screwed to the 6x2 timber head plate that would hardly be visible. ie 130 x 200mm or thereabouts, max. Now I realise I may have been a bit naive about the connections.

[Onoff]

Are you having a ceiling in there? You could mount everything on a hinge down flap maybe? Might have to compromise on your ceiling insulation...

[Adam2]

I previously used a plug with a made up cable length going in to a waterproof box where the socket existed and I connected the camera plug. Worked great until sea air destroyed inside of camera 

[efunc]

5 hours ago, Onoff said:

Are you having a ceiling in there? You could mount everything on a hinge down flap maybe? Might have to compromise on your ceiling insulation...

Yes, there will be a ceiling made of T&G treated spruce cladding. I'm currently filling it with offcuts of Kingspan PIR, just because it'll end up in the skip otherwise. I could do as you advise. It's not a bad idea. I'll have to give it some though once I figure out exactly how much electrical stuff I need to shove up there.

[Onoff]

7 minutes ago, efunc said:

Yes, there will be a ceiling made of T&G treated spruce cladding. I'm currently filling it with offcuts of Kingspan PIR, just because it'll end up in the skip otherwise. I could do as you advise. It's not a bad idea. I'll have to give it some though once I figure out exactly how much electrical stuff I need to shove up there.

 

I'd line a "box" with fire resistant pb. 

 

This is rough and temporary, on a loose board but you'll get the idea. Bluetooth (ceiling speakers) psu socket is permanently on. Next socket is switched on and off by the switched receiver

 

 

[efunc]

Yes, I like that. I wasn't sure if I'd get away with indoor sockets in an outdoor space, but it's a bit of a grey area because it's effectively covered and dry in there. At a push I may be forced to make a box, mount it on the brick wall and fill it with PSU, sockets and receivers. It needn't look too big or too ugly I suppose...  

Edited October 8, 2019 by efunc

[Onoff]

5 hours ago, efunc said:

Yes, I like that. I wasn't sure if I'd get away with indoor sockets in an outdoor space, but it's a bit of a grey area because it's effectively covered and dry in there. At a push I may be forced to make a box, mount it on the brick wall and fill it with PSU, sockets and receivers. It needn't look too big or too ugly I suppose...  

 

Get ALL your bits, plan it loose THEN select your enclosure I would.

 

The one I have for all the above bits on the board is clear fronted and tbh a bit oversize but it'll go in a downstairs cupboard.....eventually.

 

Cobwebs look unsightly and slugs just find their way in (and can even cause shorts).

 

You can always paint the box "brick" coloured. Even down to fake mortar lines! ?

[Onoff]

How about mounting in a neat line on the back of that doubled up roof timber (the one with the stud & plate washer)?

 

[Ed Davies]

12 hours ago, Onoff said:

I'd line a "box" with fire resistant pb. 

 

Common sense says that's a sensible solution but thinking, instead, about regulations: why wouldn't these have to be in a metal enclosure? I.e., what's “similar switchgear” to a consumer unit and what isn't?

[Onoff]

How about...

 

Power enclosure:

 

 

Into that plug 13A Quinetic receivers:

 

 

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUA313.html

 

Plug the wall warts for your fairy lights into that?

Edited October 9, 2019 by Onoff

[efunc]

Yes indeed! All good ideas. My original plan was to place a very small junction box for all the connections on the 6x2 timber as you identified. However once ceiling cladding is complete would only provide about 120mm depth, and I underestimated the number/size of PSUs and 3-pin sockets, etc required.

 

I'm now thinking about a slightly reduced installation which might only require 2 sockets (or potentially one), and it could be fitted more discretely into a metal box or something.

 

If I purchase this techmar albus 12v kit:

 

 

It'll come with one 22w 12v A/C transformer which can also run the 2 x 2w LED light strings on a separate circuit via a 2 way divider, and I can place a receiver on each output leg. I could even go further and loose the 3-pin plug and wire the transformer directly, provided I include a 3A inline fuse. That should be a fairly diminutive box of tricks.

 

That just leaves the cameras though, which require a PSU each. But again, I could source a transformer for those too and just run them directly off that, foregoing the bulky plugs. So, two transformers wired directly, and sitting in a junction box with two quinetic switching receivers? Does it sound safe?

 

The 22w Techmar transformer is 12v A/C. Would the Quinetic 6A Dual Wireless Receiver be able to work wit that though? https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUR323.html

Edited October 9, 2019 by efunc

[Jeremy Harris]

On 09/10/2019 at 11:54, Ed Davies said:

 

Common sense says that's a sensible solution but thinking, instead, about regulations: why wouldn't these have to be in a metal enclosure? I.e., what's “similar switchgear” to a consumer unit and what isn't?

 

The regs don't actually stipulate that fire resistant enclosures have to be made of metal, it seems that the manufacturers have decided that's the easiest (cheapest?) option.  You can get fire resistant non-metallic enclosures, I believe, but they are usually intended for commercial applications and just a bit expensive. 

 

I have wondered how fire resistant a standard composite meter enclosure is.  Not very, I suspect.

[Onoff]

Don't forget you can enclose a "plastic"  enclosure in a fireproof medium and still comply.

[efunc]

OK, inspired by Onoff's wiring installation I've been looking into this some more and getting closer to choosing what I need. If I purchase a 'DriBox' and place a 2 or 4 gang trailing socket can this be connected directly to the 240v power cable I have coming down from the ceiling without yet another mains socket in between?

 

 

The box will house a transformer (or two PSUs) for the 2 EZVIZ security cameras, and one of the following layouts for the Techmar garden light kit I linked to previously:

 

 

Or

 

 

Because the Techmar transformer has a special weather sealed connector on the 21v output I would need one of their special output splitters and then cut the cable for the Quinetic QUR323 before requiring another one of their connectors to rejoin the cable for the lights. For this reason I would prefer running two of their transformers independently  instead. Also I thought that maybe the residual power draw of the transformers could be contained better if they're placed after the QUR323. However TLC could not tell me what the power draw of the QUR323 when switched off, nor whether it supports 12v A/C.

 

Would this setup otherwise work OK?

[Onoff]

QUR323 is 85-260V AC input. Doubt very much if it'll work on 12V AC. I'd say in fact it won't.

[Onoff]

This "cable coming down from the ceiling" where does it come from, the lighting circuit, ring main etc?

 

Nothing to stop you I guess feeding that 4 gang block with it but fuse it appropriately depending on where it comes from.