No pressure in pressurised system

[Nickfromwales]

Also, it could be a simple as the filter in the PRedV having accrued flux / solder / grot from the main, as iirc @ProDave suggested. 

[Shell820810]

Pictures of TS

 

Water from Outside tap shot about 5m across the street, need pressure gauge on it to test pressure?

 

Pressure reducing valve was checked, and made no difference

Edited October 2, 2016 by Shell820810

[Nickfromwales]

Pic 4, are both the top red gate valves fully open?

What does that pressure gauge by the PRedV show? Deffo need a test on that outside tap for pressure. 

Time to start isolating things and finding out where the 'strangle' is. Any good plumber should shoot through this process and find this in a day max tbh. 

[Shell820810]

  On 02/10/2016 at 09:28, Nickfromwales said:

Pic 4, are both the top red gate valves fully open?

What does that pressure gauge by the PRedV show? Deffo need a test on that outside tap for pressure. 

Time to start isolating things and finding out where the 'strangle' is. Any good plumber should shoot through this process and find this in a day max tbh. 

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Both valves are fully open. 2 bar on the PRedV, this was took apart yesterday, and "done away with"  (its back on now) and there was no difference to the pressure. 

 

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

Next thing is turn off the stopcock that is in the pics, the 25x22mm one, connect some pipe to it and see if that's got the same power as the outside tap. If not, the pipes been damaged ( squashed ) underground. 

[Shell820810]

  On 02/10/2016 at 17:08, Nickfromwales said:

Next thing is turn off the stopcock that is in the pics, the 25x22mm one, connect some pipe to it and see if that's got the same power as the outside tap. If not, the pipes been damaged ( squashed ) underground. 

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There's full power in the kitchen cold tap...

[ProDave]

Ah gate valves. Work of the devil. Turn them off too hard and you can strip the thread, result, no matter how many times you wind the handle it does not open. Had to replace more than one that would not open. PITA I would not fit them.
 

[Nickfromwales]

  On 02/10/2016 at 18:44, ProDave said:

Ah gate valves. Work of the devil. Turn them off too hard and you can strip the thread, result, no matter how many times you wind the handle it does not open. Had to replace more than one that would not open. PITA I would not fit them.
 

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Yup. They're not suitable for hot / cold isolation. Should have been full bore ballofix valves or 1/4 turn WOG valves. 

That siad, if they're brand new then I very much doubt that they're faulty IF they've not been overtightened into the open or closed position. 

This is now just down to basic point to point elimination. Literally starting from the stopcock and working out wards, proving each piece of pipe has clear flow through it. Only that way will you find where the strangle is. As there's a lot of gate isolation valves this should be a but easier as you can just use scanners rather than cut the pipe and rejoin it. 

Get a good plumber to call round and spend a day there sorting this lot out. May be a very good idea to have someone impartial MOT the install and make sure it's fit for purpose before you go any further. 

If you were closer I'd come out and do it for you, so apologies for my welsh roots .

 

[Shell820810]

Thanks for all the advice. We'll get on the phone tomorrow and see what we can get sorted. I just hope at this stage it doesn't require anything major 

[Nickfromwales]

Sounds like valve / configuration issue to me.