Lowering Kitchen pendant light

[philkenny]

Hi everyone hopefully someone can offer help, were at nearing completion of our build, electricians were on site yesterday doing a few jobs including fitting 3 pendant lights over a  kitchen island, the  kitchen has a vaulted ceiling and the flex on the light is too short (1.5m at present and really need to be 2.3m long). they tried dismantling the light fitting to fit new flex but were unable to get it apart and were afraid of damaging it, so we put the lights up anyway, ( my wife bought the lights many month ago and we are probably unable to return now)

 

See lights below, from cox and cox

 

what i was wondering is it possible to join in addition flex to get the required  and put some sort of decorative junction at the join i.e. chrome cube or some similar

 

[PeterW]

Are they a glass shade and are they just hanging from the cable ..?? 

 

If so you may find the cable is bonded into the fitting as it is a structural part of the actual light - it won't just be flex as it may have nylon core. In the instructions it should tell you whether you can shorten the flex and how to do it.  

 

Can you not have a hanging bar with the lights fed from that below the ceiling ..?

[philkenny]

yes hanging from a cable so as you say i think the cable is bonded. That's an idea i had'nt thought of.
 Thanks

[mafaldina]

You could also use a butt splice connector and then sheathe the lot, automotive suppliers for that such as http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/58/1/sleeving/232dcdf00605ee60f109a33df88f76b6. The sheathing will be taking the weight. Or go for lighter sheather and use a chain wrapped around the cable and ceiling rose with hook, or twisted wire cable, or indeed a metal tube. Look at someone like Christopher Wray (admottedly not what they used to be) for inspiration.

 

[Onoff]

Just to demonstrate how attractive a butt crimped joint can look:

 

Of course the butt crimps and heat shrink used here were "hot melt" that undoubtedly added to the mechanical strength of the joint.  I'm sure if you used the proper colour heat shrink over the whole lot it would be darn near invisible!

 

 

[Nickfromwales]

2 hours ago, mafaldina said:

You could also use a butt splice connector and then sheathe the lot, automotive suppliers for that such as http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/58/1/sleeving/232dcdf00605ee60f109a33df88f76b6. The sheathing will be taking the weight. Or go for lighter sheather and use a chain wrapped around the cable and ceiling rose with hook, or twisted wire cable, or indeed a metal tube. Look at someone like Christopher Wray (admottedly not what they used to be) for inspiration.

 

Beware recommending automotive connectors for 230v as they're not 230v insulation 'integrity', neither are the automotive cables ( unless clearly stated ) . 

[mafaldina]

I wasn't suggesting the cables or connectors, but sheathing/sleeving to sheathe the new wires right through over the appropriate lighting flex so one cannot see the join (which should be made with appropriate connectors, wire and insulation beforehand). The automotive range has the advantage that it comes in various diameters/colours/styles. Was thinking more of the convulated tubing or heat resistant sheathing or similar so it could cope with the weight.

 

[Onoff]

BUTT crimps.....still makes me smile as does RING main!

 

Not as much as our old lower school master though.....Major Williard! (TRUE btw).

 

I'll get me coat!

[Onoff]

And to think I turned down an evening with Rachel Riley to do this:

 

So, proper crimps (RS from memory). Done them side by side whereas I'd usually stagger them if joining T&E:

 

 

 

 

See how the glue seeps out, sealing the crimp to the wire and making it watertight (theoretically):

 

 

Mmmmmm.....FUGLY! Would look even more "python/large meal" like with 3-core flex:

 

 

It's a good strong joint tbh. Best thing you could do with it is HIDE it! White heat shrink would tone it down but not in a kitchen surely? Don't know if I'd want it on anything but the lightest light fitting anyway!

 

TBH I think a tube would look good:

 

http://www.houzz.co.uk/photos/1111933/open-concept-great-room-with-vaulted-ceilings-contemporary-kitchen-vancouver

[Onoff]

You could splice and solder with heat shrink to get the joint a bit thinner of course.....

 

EDIT: You would though need to be bang on with your soldering and not have any wispy bits of sharp strand that could poke through the heat shrink.....itself which is unlikely to be as thick as the original insulation. With a staggerd joint there's less chance of course of it shorting out but the joint is potentially longer etc.

 

We're really trying here to do what's NOT done and for good reason!

 

But it's FUN!

Edited October 1, 2016 by Onoff

[philkenny]

thanks for all the suggestions - there lights are up for the time being and we will see how it looks once the kitchen is fitted in a weeks time