Attaching a green oak decorative goal post to a masonry garage.

[epsilonGreedy]

I am considering some decorative embellishments to my currently in-build plain brick & block garage. The intention is to retain the essential masonry structure for all 4 walls but to frame the garage door entrance with an oak frame goalpost and then clad that wall in horizontal feather board.

 

So far I have been warned off trying to incorporate the oak frame as a structural element because as it moves there is a risk it will stress the block work at attachment points.

 

Can someone offer tips on how to flexibly mount the goal post at the doorway? I have a source of cheap green oak 200mm square in cross section which would be heavy enough to kill someone if it peeled away from the garage wall.

 

Here is an example of the end result I am after, though just a single door in my case.

 

More info: The garage has standard 100mm cavity walls and I expect the rafters will rest on the inner wall over the door with a lintel across the span.

 

 

Edited July 4, 2019 by epsilonGreedy

[joe90]

I have fixed a heavy oak mantle to blockwork with stainless threaded rod, drilled a hole in the oak slightly smaller than the rod, hammered in a short way then “self tapped “ it fully home with two nuts locked together to drive it, marked the blockwork, drilled larger holes, cleared the dust, applied resin and offered the timber up  and propped it in place. Rods were 100mm into blockwork and same into the oak, I used m12 if I remember rightly.

[PeterW]

Fairly simple.

 

Drill the posts at intervals 75mm deep with a 25mm spade bit then drill the rest with a 10mm bit. Get some stainless M8 rod, cut to 250mm lengths and then line up the oak to the wall where you want it and mark the wall through the hole.

 

Drill the holes in the wall to 80mm carefully, then resin the studs in. Washer and nut will then tighten up inside the hole. Rough cut some pegs to 25mm rounds and then hammer home - glue if you want and then cut the pegs off when dry.

 

I would use TimberLok screws to hold the rest together.

 

 

[epsilonGreedy]

9 hours ago, PeterW said:

Drill the posts at intervals 75mm deep with a 25mm spade bit then drill the rest with a 10mm bit. Get some stainless M8 rod, cut to 250mm lengths and then line up the oak to the wall where you want it and mark the wall through the hole.

 

Drill the holes in the wall to 80mm carefully, then resin the studs in. Washer and nut will then tighten up inside the hole. Rough cut some pegs to 25mm rounds and then hammer home - glue if you want and then cut the pegs off when dry.

 

 

Ok I can picture all that coming together, would I be correct in thinking that the 8mm stud in the oversized 10mm holes in the oak provides enough free play to accommodate movement in the wood without stressing the blockwork?

Edited July 4, 2019 by epsilonGreedy

[PeterW]

How dry is the Oak...?? 

 

If its still green, then I would drill them at 12mm and use a couple of stainless washers to allow movement - use an 8mm and a 12mm penny washer to allow it to move slightly

[epsilonGreedy]

The oak is quite fresh, it is cheap because it is a by product of another commercial activity.

[joe90]

18 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

The oak is quite fresh, it is cheap because it is a by product of another commercial activity.

 

Can you not store it for a while and put the job on your “to do list” ?

[epsilonGreedy]

8 minutes ago, joe90 said:

Can you not store it for a while and put the job on your “to do list” ?

 

 

New task created at position 57 on the list.

 

The garage door faces due south so this wood will dry out under the single story roof overhang.

[joe90]

3 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

New task created at position 57 on the list.

 

Gosh, I wish my list was that short ??????

 

p.s. I really like the look, got me thinking about cladding mine, my list just got longer ?, I wish I had a source of Oak like you.

Edited July 4, 2019 by joe90

[Temp]

At the bottom build a brick plinth with a 15-20mm diameter stainless steel rod sticking out the top. Drill matching hole in bottom of post. Cover plinth with bit of lead sheet draped about 0.75" down the sloping face of the plinth bricks (anti frost measure) before placing oak post in position over the rod.

 

At top drill drill an oversize hole/slot for a screw so the post can move vertically. The oak will/can shrink in length about 20mm. If hole not made oversize you can get a gap at the bottom of the post with the whole weight hanging on the top screw. Dont ask how I know. Use stainless steel screw with washers under the head as PeterW suggests.

 

Plug screw head hole with oak peg to simulate a pegged joint.

 

[Temp]

PS

 

The edges of green oak can be surprisingly sharp. Consider rounding or chamfering them before assembly. This may also extend life of the finish.

 

If you want to retain the honey colour of new oak I recommend either...

 

1 coat Danish & 3 coats Osmo UV Protection oil.

 

or

 

Something like 1 thin coat of Sadolin Classic light oak and 2/3 of  Sadolin Extra Clear. Must be thin coats!