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Showing results for tags 'wall plate'.
Found 7 results
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I've done my best not to bother you all with this question, but..... I'm not far off fitting my wall plate - and thus my joists for the little (steeply sloping) flat roof. Joists and wall plate on site, just waiting for the concrete to dry a bit. And of course, its DIY The nice folks from Cheshire Roof Trusses sent me the necessary ironmongery. Here it is. This sooooo embarrassing ......... Which way up do I use the Simpson Strong Tie? ? Should the stamped ridge face outwards (away from the wall plate towards the joist) like this? A simpler way of asking the question might be either : What does the top chord of the joist sit on: the square tabs or the rounded ones? Or conversely, do the rounded tabs sit on the top of the wall plate or the square tabs? I think I know how to use the corner plates. It's hard work this DIY lark........
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Wallplate fitted, ridge beam fitted (nearly), rafters up, insulation fitted in between. Who's a clever boy then? ? Maybe over-worried about fixing the wall straps through to the concrete, I chased the Durisol back to the concrete and fitted the wall straps direct to it. This is where we are now (looking up from the floor); I need to make good on top of the wall straps. Which ? Foam, Durisol, Sand and Cement? (Can't Avoid.... )
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Joists are here and dropped in at 400mm centes I'm thinking skew nail the top chord to the wall plate but would welcome any suggestions. For the most they are 97 or 122mm wide, would top down screws give a better fix? Can't find anything specific in the layout drawing or manufacturer installation details.
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Sometimes you bump into really interesting stuff online..... like this (scroll down to the section headed Wall-Plate) Here's the relevant passage '...In order to make the house air-tight, the wall plates have been installed over a polythene membrane, which is shown tacked down until the construction has proceeded to the point where it can be folded up and over the plywood which will soon cover the ends of the joists. Ultimately it will seal against the plywood decking which will be laid on top of the joists....' (https://edinkist.wordpress.com/diary-of-the-build/) To ensure air-tightness at the wall-plate roof interface, is this method (putting the wall plate on top of a polythene membrane) common? I feel some phone calls coming on.
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The wall plate on the south face of our build runs across two sections: Durisol and steel. I'm almost clear about how to fix it to the Durisol. But how do we fix it to the top of the RSJ ? Is a simple bit of M14 threaded bar with bolts top and bottom sensible? (Countersunk bolt and bar at the top). Or is this a question the SE needs to answer?
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As I suspected, this learning curve really is pretty steep. So in an attempt to make sure that I reduce the number of errors in establishing our first floor at the correct level, I thought it might be an idea to start a thread - hopefully I'll be able to summarise it as a check list later. First: the end in mind Accurately mark out the position of the top of the wall plate (rim joist) such that our 202 POSIs sit at the correct height. Follow this bit of maths through with me please: Assuming the top of the POSIs is the same level as the top of the wall plate , it (the rim joist) needs to be 20mm (the depth of the decking) below FFH; (2350+255); that is (2605-20) = 2585mm above FFL In order to mark it out, since our floor is currently 25mm below FFL (currently we are at sub-floor) we need to add another 25mm = 2610mm above our current floor Naturally, it isn't that simple is it? Our timber spec is C24, treated, 200 by 50. Well wadya know? Timber of that spec isn't. It's less than 200 and less than 50 (195 by 45 ish). Which means the bottom of our POSIs are going to be hanging low (to coin a phrase). Our hanger spec is 200 by 50 Does it matter that the bottom of the hangers are going to be below the bottom of the wall plate?
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I think I have got my head round the principles of putting the first floor in its place (is that a pun?). I have read the relevant guidance (The POSI Joist Handbook) - and see architects note top left below. I have also read the architects note (bottom -right) which shows me I need to use 200 by 50 treated softwood. Here's our first floor And here's how Durisol recommend I attach the wall plate to the wall So far so good. POSI say I must use a hanger (and the architect says so too) because of air-tightness, and that means I need to..... make sure the fixing for the hanger doesn't penetrate the wall (and so compromise air-tightness) or put air-tightness tape over the masonry hanger fixing. Hanger - to wall-plate: I have a strong feeling I can't get away with 50mm screws for the connection between the hanger and the wall plate can I? What size will those screws need to be? Wall-Plate to wall: Self tapping M10 coach bolts at 400mm centers (architects note above) to attach the wall-plate to the wall? The key thing is that they connect with the concrete isn't it, even if the 400 mm centers guidance happens to fall outside the concrete core (i.e. into the 'wood' of the Durisol block? I think I'll probably need to embed the wall-plate fixing in resin won't I - for air-tightness?
