SBMS

This makeup as well with steico boards as sarking. And propassiv inside for air tightness and vapour permeability. Note that the timber rafters are the posi rafters.

You will struggle to get a good value with attic trusses without using PIR - which I wouldn’t. Posi rafters will go right to your wallplate you don’t even need a dwarf wall if you don’t want. You can do a 304mm posi rafter and blown cellulose insulation. That’s my makeup for our habitable attic rooms:

That’s why I was recommending posi rafters if vaulted ceilings. I discounted attic trusses because I didn’t want to insulate with PIR and couldn’t get trusses deep enough for cellulose blown insulation.

I thought labour have committed to removing gas as an electricity source by 2030?

Do you have rooms in the roof?

Did they? I thought it was primarily global gas prices that pushed the price up. Didn’t the govt do the exact opposite by subsidising prices via the EPG (I know we all end up paying for it eventually). (disclaimer: I am no supporter of the previous shower of sh**)

@Dunc you’re absolutely right - forgot this. Protek wanted a separate guarantee which was another reason I went with Build Zone. They also asked about 1/3 the number of questions protek did so my gut just told me there cover was more comprehensive. I felt if if accidentally answered one of proteks question inaccurately it’d be used later.

It was easier getting a quote from build zone. Easier organising warranty inspections with building control. Could pick up the phone and speak to someone at self build zone. But if it’s just a box ticking for a mortgage you’re probably fine to go the cheaper route? I think protek does cover you if builder doesn’t in first two years so they are probably like for like in many respects:

I looked at this. Realised that if the rest of the walls weren’t being done in SIPS there was little point. No SIPs manufacturer would install as they need your masonry walls to be within a very small tolerance - fine if they are putting them up in sips, otherwise they just said they’d supply only. Reason number 2 - in my research of all the places a SIPS panel could fail it’s along the ridge where the two panels meet. If this detail is imperfect you’ve got osb weetabix. Reason number 3 - long ridge spans don’t work very well with sips. A glulam ridge was looked at for ours… then they said steel… Reason number 4 - I was attracted to sips because we are doing attic rooms and having them vaulted was a desirable. But many on here have said the noise is quite high when it rains. Instead we are going with a 304mm posi rafter hanging off a steel Ridge, filled with warmcel blown in. Fully vaulted and should be excellent u value, and quiet in the rain. And can be assembled by a normal roofing gang.

I think your quote included site inspections. This is typically what protek mean when they say technical Audit fee. many latent defect warranties exclude the first two years - but then have a clause to pick it up in the event that the contractor is out of business or can’t be claimed against. Does protek have this? stage certificates are used for a self build mortgage only really and allow you to draw the next stage of funds down. Not relevant for you if using a business loan. Try and get a warranty provider that can appoint the same company for your building control inspections as your warranty inspections - it does make it much easier in my opinion. Have you tried a quote from selfbuildzone? I found them much easier and they were only a few hundred more than protek.

Couldn’t agree more @ProDave think the ONS reports around 11%/2 million homes use direct electric heating - less than 1% use an ASHP. I believe that the BUS grant funding covers up to around 33k homes so the ambition is so low… you’re right though target those 33k homes. I would wager as well that those with electric only heating have a cylinder whereas those on gas might have a combi and no space for the cylinder so aren’t a great fit for a heat pump.

I wonder if this is the same with ‘passivhaus’ certified sliding doors as it seems an airtightness compromise.

I’ll be honest, I’m not sure I understand what you mean there! Are you saying the drain holes are unnecessary?

Done by best on photo attached

We had two sets of raynaers aluminium sliding doors in our current self build. Moving onto our second, there’s one thing that always bothered me about the way they were installed, and I want to avoid it if I can on our next. It’s a double track and The fitter drilled drainage holes in the base of the track where the rubber gasket bit is, which go through to weep holes on the outside. The internal track does indeed sometimes get water collecting and it must drain out of these holes. however I also see them as a terrible way to leak airtightness… is this a peculiarity of this door design? Do all aluminium doors have to have the same principle of drainage holes from inside to out therefore an unavoidable airtightness breach? Photo to follow