Scots Build

There's nothing on the exterior where the floor crack is thankfully, I think I'll just mix up some cement and fill it in, hope for the best Not sure what a door standard is that you refer to. The house is a timber frame kit sitting on top of a polished concrete slab with UFH (which isn't leaking etc.

Thanks. Although not the answer I hoped for, it is the information that I was asking for I'll just have to move on

Thanks for the replies guys, especially the very detailed one from Gus It is a main contractor builder I engaged, to build my own, architect designed house. The only paperwork between us was a signed quote I have bought a new build off a developer in the past, so know about NHBC and the householders rights there etc, but just not sure what rights I have to have issues/snags fixed in my current situation. Polished concrete crack Cracked exterior render Bulging exterior render Cracked grouting in wetroom shower floor Gaps opening up between boards on stair landing

Is there any requirement for a main contractor builder to carry out snagging on a new build? House was finished last year and although is generally to a high standard, there are a couple of niggles that are annoying me and I'm getting the silent treatment from the builder. There was no contract agreement or talk of snagging prior to the build and no money retention etc. They have sent decorators in to sort a couple of minor interior cracks but have gone silent on everything else. The main issues I have are: Cracks in polished concrete floor Top landing of Oak stair separating between the boards Exterior render cracking and bulging Couple of edging half slates fell off (have since fixed myself) I'm just not sure if I'm wasting time and energy chasing the builder and should accept they won't resolve and move on, or if they have any sort of obligation to correct issues?

The installer has been back and we had a good chat about the system and he set it up for how we live, rather than how the builder dictated it was setup. It hasn't helped improve the energy usage much though. It is setup now to heat the tank twice a day, morning and night. It uses about 1.7Kwh in the morning to heat tank to 48degC, then another 1.5Kwh to bring it back to 48degC in the late afternoon It still seems excessive to me but not much more I can do about it it would seem Thanks to all for help and assistance

Something definitely seems to be amiss with it then. I'm going to call the installers back to check it over

Thanks for sharing your usage and pointers everyone The system is definitely in schedule only mode. Can anyone help me understand how the schedule works, i.e. I presume if I set it for 45 deg @ 18:00, the system turns on at this time until the required temp is reached in the tank? I had it setup like this before but found the external fans on at random times throughout the day If only heating once per day, is it better to have this time set during the afternoon when the air temp is at its warmest or through the night like the manual suggests (to avoid conflicting with UFH, which is irrelevant throughout summer anyway)

I'm glad you are agreeing it seems an excessive amount of usage. I've kinda just accepted that's the way it is as a first time ASHP owner, but it constantly niggles away at me (as well as draining the funds in electric bills) and that's why I turned here in the hope of help to understand what's normal Definitely no leaking tap or shower within the house, and no hot pipes/liquid suggesting a PRV is passing either. This high usage has been over the last year since we moved in so we'd have noticed any leaks etc

As far as I know, I don't have any control over whether it is the ASHP or the immersion heater that is doing the work. The controls just allow me to set the temp of the water and at what time it is required. If I only set one temp/time per day in the clock schedule, say 45 deg @ 12pm, does that then maintain that temp all the time or does it just aim to raise the water temp to that temp at that time and shut off? At moment the schedule is something like this 18:00 45 deg 19:00 40 deg which I presumed would maintain 40deg but increase to 45 deg for an hour period. There is no consistent big spikes in energy usage at 18:00 suggesting immersion is always used, but spikes throughout the day, say every couple of hours I have trialed turning off power to the ASHP for extended periods of time (when house is unoccupied) and background usage for the rest of house is around 4-5kW/d so the ASHP system accounts for the remaining 13-14kW. I've got a smart meter so can see energy usage in 30min chunks but that's the only metering I have

We moved into a new build last year that has a DAIKIN ERLQ014CAV3 ALTHERMA OUTDOOR UNIT coupled to a DAIKIN EHVH16SU26CB6W HYDROBOX/CYLINDER but energy usage seems to be rather high considering it is only being used for DHW for at least 6 months of the year. The property benefits from large solar gain so no need for the UFH to be on throughout summer. Does anyone have a similar system and can share roughly how much power it's using and/or the most economical way to set it up? I've had a read through the manuals but am struggling to know the best way to set it up for lowest running costs. Is it better to maintain a water temp of say 40degC throughout day then boost to 45 around the time of showers. Or only have one heating period per day? There is only 1 person living in the house at the moment and it's using a steady 18kwH per day (in winter with UFH on, its gone over 100kwH/day). House is modern design and has good airtightness of 1 m3/hr/m2

I have UFH on my upper floor which is fed by an ASHP as well. The diagram below shows the make up of it however if I was building again, I would, without a doubt, plan and budget for a concrete screed upstairs because the system of spreader plates, 22mm chipboard and then flooring (carpet and tiles) means the floor never gets warm and struggles to heat one of the bedrooms. It has a fully glazed wall and the heat loss in that room through the glazing means the UFH cannot heat the room to a comfortable temp when the outside temp is very low (below 0). Air tightness of the house overall is 1m3/hr/m2 so air loss isn't the issue

Firstly, likely a bit late for the OP but hopefully some help to others who may come across this thread If you get your cashback, then yes the loan would be just £2500 plus admin fee (currently £37.50) As the loan amount is lower, you have to pay it back over a shorter period so 5 years instead of 12 If you get a HES cashback grant/loan, you are not entitled to RHI so don't waste your time applying

ClanCool in Kintore do ASHP. I used them to install mine and although just recently moved in, have had no issues with them or the equipment so far