Mattg4321

I understand why you did this, as I also did the same. That insulated board is impossible to detail properly in my opinion. I fixed it slightly differently to you though. I didn’t stick the PIR. I fixed through 18mm thick battens (then through the PIR) into the blockwork and then screwed plasterboard to the battens.

Why didnt you use plasterboard that comes already attached to the PIR out of interest? I'm not sure there's any approved method of using mechanical fixings into masonry to fix plasterboard.

Lap, rhymes with cr.. Probably the worst, least reliable accessories I've ever come across. You won't have any problems with Click Mode

In that case worth looking at something like octopus cosy as there are multiple cheap rates during each 24h period. As you say though, it’s worth weighing up whether it’s best to not worry about the very coldest of days.

Currently most cost effective to have a battery big enough to see you through 24 hours in the winter when there is little generation. Charge it overnight to 100% at cheap rate then export any excess solar at higher unit price than you buy in for overnight. If you think you’re saving the planet by using maximum amount of generation on site, then that changes things.

Rightly or wrongly, I think if you employed 10 different firms to do this work, then you would get it installed in this way 10 times (hopefully with better sealing - there shouldn’t be any draughts!). If the opening isn’t properly prepared, that’s on you. Of course, a great company would survey and suggest improvements before going ahead, but most of these guys don’t really understand this sort of thing. It’s for the customer/architect to spec. These guys just know how to fit windows and doors so they are properly sealed and don’t let draughts or water in and open and close smoothly. Anything beyond that is highly unlikely. Do you have condensation build up elsewhere in the house? Does sound like this room is probably colder than the rest of the house - reading between the lines? Do you have any mechanical ventilation? Intermittent or continuous?

If going for PVC box, then don't fit a surface pattress as it's not only the wrong size (the socket face won't overlap the edges). It doesn't have an adjustable lug. I use these sometimes where walls are very slightly damp in old houses and eventually rot out the metal boxes. No such problem with these. Probably have to order in, nobody keeps them in stock round here at least. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1063228-2-gang-35mm-pvc-flush-pattress-box-round-corners-with-20mm-conduit-ko-white?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23051364679&gbraid=0AAAAADOkMAZCou3JXOW_WiNJ2r4F_Fg3c&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9OnJBhD-ARIsAPV51xNG2MYKTdf6T2rR14bNj17wnkbY5gyAYeFQLZOSGdyOnJgqzd1ZN0UaAoK4EALw_wcB

If you’re worried about noise/interference then surely CY is the choice over SY

It turns out that the top cap is for manual bleeding and the side is for automatic. It’s why I don’t trust ChatGPT.

Thanks. Was that an AI answer, or from your own experience? Ive been testing out ChatGPT recently and found it’s not to be trusted. Confidently states things as fact, which turn out to be nonsense. It has its uses, but it’s basically a more advanced search engine imo. AI in the literal sense it is not

I’ve not come across these AAV’s with 2 caps before. Usually just the one. Can anyone explain the function of both? cheers

Good point! Best to run separate in this case in my opinion. Much more cost effective!

Why would you want 10Gbit to an EV charger anyway? It’s only ever going to be using a tiny amount of data. As above. 2 pairs for data, leaving 2 pairs for CT clamps if needed.

Moisture can migrate through plaster. You’ll need a VCL of some sort.

gapotape looks great. expensive though. Needs foaming in at very least imo. Airtight.