Mattg4321

Good point! Best to run separate in this case in my opinion. Much more cost effective!

Why would you want 10Gbit to an EV charger anyway? It’s only ever going to be using a tiny amount of data. As above. 2 pairs for data, leaving 2 pairs for CT clamps if needed.

Moisture can migrate through plaster. You’ll need a VCL of some sort.

gapotape looks great. expensive though. Needs foaming in at very least imo. Airtight.

Update: I bought the Zehnder attenuated manifold a few weeks ago and fitted it, with great difficulty. An absolute pig. I was even less happy when I turned it on and it had made absolutely zero difference. A few hundred quid and half a day down the drain unfortunately. However, there is a happy ending eventually, as today I fitted 2 of the flexible silencers @Jolo suggested, near to the terminal in the main bedroom. I used 80mm as they fitted fairly well directly over the 75mm ducting I have. It appears @Jolo has 90mm ducting? Result, I can't hear any noise whatsoever from main bedroom terminal even with my ear to it! A dramatic improvement. Tested the airflow and it hasn't reduced whatsoever. Thank you @Jolo. The only baffling thing is why the semi rigid ducting itself has caused this effect on both our systems. Mine is fixed well every 600mm, no sharp bends. I have 75mm, Jolo has 90mm. I have Quiet Vent ducting, he has Ubbink. I'm surprised more people don't have this problem? Or maybe they just put up with it?

V-tuf mini is decent, and it’s M class, so site compliant

As above. You need an insulation resistance tester or you’re just guessing really. Then having to ‘bang test’ it. Clamping the earth is the wrong way to use an earth leakage clamp meter (assuming you have one designed for this and not just a standard clamp meter, where the resolution won’t be high enough at low currents to be useful). You need to clamp line and neutral together, mirroring what the RCD is testing.

That works if you have a low resistance fault. A lot, maybe even most, are not. It might be outside the scope of a low reading ohm meter/continuity meter and require an insulation resistance tester. No need to disconnect all the legs at this stage yet either.

That metal capping would barely stop a 5 year old with a sharp crayon. A drill or nail will go straight through it Needs to be steel conduit or 3mm plate or something in front of it.

The first thing to do with a fault like this is always always always insulation resistance testing. It solves 90% of these faults or more. If you haven’t got a tester or don’t know how to use it properly then your going to be flailing around in the dark… possibly literally!

Appleby boxes have always been my choice as they are generally the best. It’s is annoying though trying to use them when it’s double plasterboarded. Also, when using dry liners in general, if you fit them before plaster skim, make them a snug fit or they’ll move and pull a lump of plaster out at second fix. Why they set the locking tabs on the Appleby boxes at roughly 15mm thick, rather than 12.5mm (so they wouldn’t move) I will never know!! If you fit them after skim, then you will have a fairly ugly lip, visible with flat plate sockets etc. Also, if you want to remove one for access, and it’s fitted before the skim, it will make a mess to some extent or other. You also can’t fit them hard up against a stud as no room for the wing. Also, it’ll be an extra visit to the job if fitted before the skim as can’t be done at 1st fix. For all those reasons it’s knockout boxes for me! FYI if you want the Appleby boxes get them very soon. They are already disappearing from the wholesalers in my experience recently. I’ve moved over to the Click essentials ones. Can be used with double board and the lugs don’t flop around like some of the cheap stuff does.

This. Dry lining/plasterboard boxes are not as good as metal knockout boxes and nogs in my opinion. If one side is already boarded it can sometimes make it slightly trickier to wire, so prefer not.

I think you’re not fully understanding how it works. It’s a fairly complex subject though and it’s easy to get slightly confused about what exactly will happen in each scenario. It happens to me sometimes. I’m not entirely sure what you mean by earth loop and it being bad. I always associated earth loops with audio equipment and hum/noise. There is no mention of it in BS7671 as far as I can recall and I don’t see how this could be a safety issue. DNO Earth is the star point (neutral) at the transformer being tied to true Earth. Ie rod etc in the dirt. This will usually be done multiple times en route from transformer to your property - PME. If your property is a TT system - a minority of installations these days, but including caravans and building sites, then you have no DNO Earth connection on site. You whack a rod in the ground and your path to DNO Earth is through your rod and then through the dirt to the DNO Earth. You’re calling this a ground loop?? It’s a normal earthing system. If you’re in islanding mode, then the fault path will be back to the inverter and not back to DNO transformer. So the fact that you have tied your inverter neutral to earth via the neutral/earth bond relay and your own rod, means that is your fault path now. It doesn’t matter if you are still connected to DNO PME/TN-C-S system earth as this is no longer the fault path, as your power is derived from the inverter and not the DNO. You wouldn’t disconnect your bonding from the incoming gas and water supplies when in islanding mode would you. At this point, they are, electrically, just bits of metal in the ground, as is the DNO PME system. They are not part of the fault path.

You won't necessarily have an earth rod anyway as it's not mandatory. Not even for EV chargers now as most have built in PEN fault protection, meaning earth rods are not required as long as you meet other regulations. Neutral - earth bond is necessary for the proper operation of RCD protection. Stopping the voltage going back into the grid is a separate issue. Hybrid inverter can do as many circuits as the power of the inverter will be able to run. Nothing to say it can only operate a single circuit. I wouldn't take what Sunsynk say as gospel. They are certainly not experts when it comes to electrical installation - I've seen that Keith on their videos do some fairly dodgy things! Also, I seem to remember that some of their inverters will require NO and some NC relays!! FYI Sunsynk are rebranded Deye inverters.

The Sunsynk has an iirc 230v output that is triggered when the inverter is in islanding mode. This doesn't serve as the neutral-earth bond. You need to connect the output to the coil on a separate relay that will make the neutral-earth bond. An earth rod will also be needed if this is a grid connected system. Don't expect to find any explicit regulations in BS7671 as to how this should be done exactly, as they don't exist. Any circuits that you want to be able to use in islanding mode/off grid, need to be connected to the load terminals on the inverter. You really need someone who knows what they are doing to connect this up.