Mattg4321

If going for PVC box, then don't fit a surface pattress as it's not only the wrong size (the socket face won't overlap the edges). It doesn't have an adjustable lug. I use these sometimes where walls are very slightly damp in old houses and eventually rot out the metal boxes. No such problem with these. Probably have to order in, nobody keeps them in stock round here at least. https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1063228-2-gang-35mm-pvc-flush-pattress-box-round-corners-with-20mm-conduit-ko-white?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23051364679&gbraid=0AAAAADOkMAZCou3JXOW_WiNJ2r4F_Fg3c&gclid=Cj0KCQiA9OnJBhD-ARIsAPV51xNG2MYKTdf6T2rR14bNj17wnkbY5gyAYeFQLZOSGdyOnJgqzd1ZN0UaAoK4EALw_wcB

If you’re worried about noise/interference then surely CY is the choice over SY

It turns out that the top cap is for manual bleeding and the side is for automatic. It’s why I don’t trust ChatGPT.

Thanks. Was that an AI answer, or from your own experience? Ive been testing out ChatGPT recently and found it’s not to be trusted. Confidently states things as fact, which turn out to be nonsense. It has its uses, but it’s basically a more advanced search engine imo. AI in the literal sense it is not

I’ve not come across these AAV’s with 2 caps before. Usually just the one. Can anyone explain the function of both? cheers

Good point! Best to run separate in this case in my opinion. Much more cost effective!

Why would you want 10Gbit to an EV charger anyway? It’s only ever going to be using a tiny amount of data. As above. 2 pairs for data, leaving 2 pairs for CT clamps if needed.

Moisture can migrate through plaster. You’ll need a VCL of some sort.

gapotape looks great. expensive though. Needs foaming in at very least imo. Airtight.

Update: I bought the Zehnder attenuated manifold a few weeks ago and fitted it, with great difficulty. An absolute pig. I was even less happy when I turned it on and it had made absolutely zero difference. A few hundred quid and half a day down the drain unfortunately. However, there is a happy ending eventually, as today I fitted 2 of the flexible silencers @Jolo suggested, near to the terminal in the main bedroom. I used 80mm as they fitted fairly well directly over the 75mm ducting I have. It appears @Jolo has 90mm ducting? Result, I can't hear any noise whatsoever from main bedroom terminal even with my ear to it! A dramatic improvement. Tested the airflow and it hasn't reduced whatsoever. Thank you @Jolo. The only baffling thing is why the semi rigid ducting itself has caused this effect on both our systems. Mine is fixed well every 600mm, no sharp bends. I have 75mm, Jolo has 90mm. I have Quiet Vent ducting, he has Ubbink. I'm surprised more people don't have this problem? Or maybe they just put up with it?

V-tuf mini is decent, and it’s M class, so site compliant

As above. You need an insulation resistance tester or you’re just guessing really. Then having to ‘bang test’ it. Clamping the earth is the wrong way to use an earth leakage clamp meter (assuming you have one designed for this and not just a standard clamp meter, where the resolution won’t be high enough at low currents to be useful). You need to clamp line and neutral together, mirroring what the RCD is testing.

That works if you have a low resistance fault. A lot, maybe even most, are not. It might be outside the scope of a low reading ohm meter/continuity meter and require an insulation resistance tester. No need to disconnect all the legs at this stage yet either.

That metal capping would barely stop a 5 year old with a sharp crayon. A drill or nail will go straight through it Needs to be steel conduit or 3mm plate or something in front of it.

The first thing to do with a fault like this is always always always insulation resistance testing. It solves 90% of these faults or more. If you haven’t got a tester or don’t know how to use it properly then your going to be flailing around in the dark… possibly literally!