BenP

Morning all, Looking to run our flow and return for the centrally located UFH manifold in the screed - plumber was talking about quite complicated ducting solutions but I recently saw a video where someone had used a wider dimater version of a typical UFH pipe - i.e. https://www.thefloorheatingwarehouse.co.uk/product/premium-pex-al-pex-pipe-50-metre-coil-wras-approved/ We have a 75mm sand cement screed going in so couldn't see no reason why we couldn't bury two 32mm pipes in one continuous run? Anyone done similar and have product recommendations? Cheers, Ben

Yep - but if it's 600mm it shouldn't need cutting Horrible stuff though - much more pleasant installing wood fibre, although 20/25mm extra is needed and it's much harder to squeeze in!

40 was fine for us - also easy as you can offer it up to a stud and then cut on the opposite side of the next one along (essentially adding stud width to the dimension between studs)

Perhaps you had conditional approval on the plan check? It's quite normal for Building Control to approve plans but lump you with a load of conditions. Usually it means construction can begin and items will need to be observed on site or more detail provided by you / your designer.

Enquired about this as we current have a gas combi that has been relocated and is being adapted to run 35 degree UFH, with the next stage being a UVC with a solar diverter. Octopus are not interested until our renovation work is complete. It does not sound like they want to get involved or start doing their surveys, thermal calcs etc based on our specifications. Bit of a shame but they have given outline spec for space allowances for UVC etc. I was hoping to get everything constructed inside ready to plug an ASHP outside, ideally when the boiler dies or funds allow. Oh well.

As above - Having now lived with MVHR I think you'd have to be mad not to do it. Bathroom does get steamy but clears away relatively quickly. We have a clothes airing rail below a supply vent and most washing will be dry within 12 hours. Generally the environment is pleasant. That combined with steady temperatures as a result of airtightness and decent insulation levels. House is only half finished too - MVHR isn't even setup properly yet!

I think you're over thinking it personally. You are within you're proposed thermal envelope (thanks to between and over on the roof) so it's not going to be 'cold', just unheated. Maybe some token lagging may help in the depths of winter? If it was me I'd ditch the expense of the insulated plasterboard and put the 100mm Rockwool across the whole floor as this is mainly for noise separation.

Cheers ProDave. Will quiz him tomorrow Luckily we are only running a temp supply at the moment until the old floor slab gets sorted and new floor is put in in Spring/Summer.

I'm no plumber - I don't know! No reason why we can't then? Wunda system. Combi boiler. Likely future ASHP.

Hi. Currently working with our plumber to connect up the manifold. Gas combi is being moved next before we link up. Plumber wants to keep feed pipes below level of manifold, so in the screed. Floor is going to be 20mm limestone so future access is not likely. What's the best solution? Below screed is a mix of insulation on beam and block and then a new slab (likely to be foamglas aggregate type). Up in ceiling and back down definitely not possible?

Architect here - you're quite right! We tend to use square meter rates to give an idea of cost scale. A lot of our clients aren't always aware that an 8 metre deep extension will significantly challenge their budget over a 4 metre extension!! We're experiencing some horrific numbers at the moment (SE). However I do think some cost consultants are over egging it. Being in the process of building our own self build we can see that generally they are 25 pc overcooked. Screeding rates were double. I clad our house myself and going by their rates I would have been earing 2-3k a week doing it!!!

Good shout - thinking selfishly here with a garage away from the boundary and sneaking under the size that requires Building regs!

Timber Frame - would have to be OSB sheathed anyway - put this on the inside layer for hanging things etc. Would also be easier to get a decent level of insulation too. 140mm flexible batt between 600 c/c studs. Simple. I think this is the route I'm going. Unless I decide to teach myself some brickwork. Generally prefer dry trades though!!!

There's no required amount as it's considered an unheated space by Building Regs. If you're considering heating it anyway you're going to want 0.18-0.21 I'd say.

Interesting - sounds like the same scenario we have. 1800s cottage with brick floor topped with concrete. I think cost must start to look less daunting when you consider less labour to install blinding, type 1, concrete, PIR with a traditional slab? Out of interest did you install DPM and traditional screed with UFH? People seem keen to top with limecrete and leave vapour open.....