richie9648

Thanks Tony - but they are solar powered windows with no wiring involved

Hi I am looking at getting 4 velux windows - opening through a solar power As I understand it they all come with a switch to control opening and closing - instead of getting 4 is there a way of controlling them all by one switch / app etc etc. I can’t imagine having 4 switches sitting on the wall

Architect advised it on the 3m. I agree I’m not sure why!!! yes we have put in a freebie amendment on the 3.5m

We did a PA on the 3m - we have got the free go plan in and i am hoping the BC dont notice it either when he is up next week to look

Thanks Peter. I am looking to put Karndean down as a final flooring. In terms of spreader plates - is there a particular product you would recommend ?

I’m planning 100mm of kingspan - 150mm if I can !!!

Is the heat output from an aluminium spreader plate better than a torfloor??

Hi i wondered if anyone had had any experience of putting an omnie torfloor system down - what’s the performance like? I’m having a few issues with height buildup and this seems to go straight on to joists which would be reduce any height build up thanks

Hi I have a planning approval on a 3m extension on a semi - but have decided to go out 3.5m - dont ask why - case of me not being here and a discussion between Mrs and builder Neighbours are fine with it and didnt bat an eyelid. Would I put a retrospective application in or just carry on - I assume given it would be deemed under PA and the neighbours are fine with it, the risk of being asked to scale it back are pretty minor? Thanks

Oh dear - I’ve attached a pic below. Will I need a structural engineer to do calcs on this one as I think it’s a load bearing wall and also above the stairs. if it’s too much bother then it might be just barn style rolling doors instead!!

Has anyone fitted a pocket door on an internal wall. We are wanting to move the current door from one side of the wall to the other - probably moving a foot or so, and will have 2 openings. Given this, can i just build a goalpost and put the frame in between or do I need to fill the current opening, create the new opening and build out from there? Thanks

Unfortunately no attic space - any other alternatives? Omnie and others say you should be fine with a combi boiler but not 100% sure - they mention that - we advise that the UFH will require 6.4KW (21900 BTU) based on a standard 1.0 TOG floor finish and a room temperature of 20°C with the estimated heat loss between 3.4kW and 3.8kW. That is just for the UFH - I dont even know what that means. Any helpers??

I am pretty sure he said Unvented - like these - https://www.vaillant.co.uk/for-installers/products/domestic-boiler-cylinders-25601.html I am struggling with the space and finding somewhere to put this will be a nightmare !!! Any other options?

Thanks for the input. Makes sense. What kind of output boiler would I need - someone recommended an unvented cylinder boiler which I thought was over the top !!

On a worst day I will have 2 showers running at the same time - usually when the kids get back and have to use both at same after a mucky day out. in terms of insulation I have none under my suspended floor but as part of the UFH I will be putting at least 100mm of kingspan in between the joists. Are you saying current boiler may not be enough??

Hi Just wondered what the boiler requirements are for UFH ? I am looking to heat 100m2 on the ground floor, 7 radiators upstairs, 3 bathrooms Currently have a Worcester Bosch - https://www.boilerguide.co.uk/productinfo/worcester-bosch/greenstar-30si-compact-combi-gas-boiler and i think its 24Kw - enough for what I need?

Hi My first post here - was pointed in this direction by a friend of mine. After months of research (feels like months) I think I have come to a conclusion on which UFH system and I just needed some support on ensuring I had made a right decision (otherwise my wife and kids will kill me in the middle of winter). Background I am doing a renovation project of the ground floor of my house - 95m2. It is a 1930s semi - whole place is being gutted and an extension going in. The current flooring is timber joists and in a bad condition and has no insulation. So first job will be to rip up the flooring and add 100mm of Kingspan or Celotex in between the joists. Now the complexity of which UFH system to go for. I have boiled down to 2 options: Option1: TorFloor by Omnie - I can use these boards as the structural floor, I am hoping a competent plumber can install this and I can get a 9mm plyboard on top and finish the floor with LVT like Karndean. The height build up is 35mm (22m board, 9mm ply, 4mm Karndean). So the build up is pretty similar to what I have with the existing boards and underlay and carpet Option2: Install a pannelling and screed system (like Nuheat or Profix). With this system I would put some 6mm T&G plywood over the top of the joists, put down the castellanated panels, pipes would go in and screed on top. As I cant put Karndean straight on top of the screed, i would need to finish with 6mm ply and Karndean finish on top. So the build up is 80-85mm (6mm ply, 15-20mm panels depending on system, 50mm screed, 6mm ply, 4mm karndean). It is not clear how much screed I need as some systems are different. I am hoping I have described the above scenarios correctly - I am not a seasoned DIYer so all the research has been mind blowing !!!. In conclusion I am tending to go for the Omnie Torfloor system - number of reasons - floor build up is lower and its £3k cheaper. However what I dont know is the output and difference between a screed system and an overlay system. Any opinions on my conclusions?? Please tell me if I have got this one wrong !! Ideally I need a fairly quick heat up and a fairly good output - kids and mrs moan in the middle of summer of how cold it is !!! Thanks for reading