ProDave
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Posts posted by ProDave
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Best of luck finding a tree man. I had 4 look at mine, all gave a price and then did not answer their phone again or one kept giving a date to come and do the work and cancelled.
I am doing mine myself now. With an 8" single handed electric chainsaw with extending pole to strip the upper branches off, then felling the now mostly bare trunk.
It's easy if you have somewhere for them to drop, you can fell them whole. The tricky ones were the ones without room and had to be dropped in sections.
Only do this yourself if you are comfortable, or as I was, desperate. Best of luck finding a tree man.
As I gave a WBS none of it goes to the chipper. Everything larger than a finger diameter gets used for burning or the thin stuff for kindling, only the really small stuff got burned on a bonfire.
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42 minutes ago, JohnMo said:
I would worry the centre of the plasterboard sagging with a 1m span.
I am sure the plan is frame to both side walls, AND further timbers spanning between these at no more than 600mm centres or better still 400mm centres.
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46 minutes ago, Spinny said:
Here is ours. Went with neither 20 years ago, although the screen folds in half inwards, so it helps the screen clear the shower head.
The centre line is on the left of the riser, i.e. midway between the riser and the centre of the shower head - you can count the mosaic tiles.
With controls remote from the shower, I would (I did) put the controls on the left hand wall, so you can reach in and turn the shower on without the cold water in the pipes spraying on you.
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Riser rail for me, that is more obvious if not centred.
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So you also need to box in the bit up the stairwell where the pipes go up, but only that bit otherwise you will narrow the stairwell. Up to where the newel post would be my suggestion.
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8 minutes ago, SimonD said:
From that link the best bit is
Implications for the customer
If the DNO or MOP need to attend a domestic or similar premises and encounter equipment other than that used for supply or metering purposes within an approved meter enclosure, this may prevent work activities such as:
● the replacement of lifetime-expired equipment;
Great way therefore if you don't want a smart meter, to make sure there is no free space to fit one.
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Another +1 for Click Mode. Good quality, well built, versatile, reliable and cheap. What is not to like.
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As it's only supporting plasterboard I would construct a false ceiling using 38mm by 89mm CLS timber supported just from the walls with a similar sized CLS fixed to both walls. That then gives you plenty of room to accommodate the wiring for the lighting changes.
You could probably do it in a thinner size using metal framing, but someone else would have to advise on that, I have not used it.
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31 minutes ago, JohnMo said:
Isn't it already in containment, it's in a big box. So what's the difference from a consumer unit, you open that box and you see single insulation wires.
No idea of the answer, just a confused - simple terms learning lesson would be good
I was going to ask that. A meter box is a cabinet that needs a key to open it. That does indeed seem to meet the description of an electrical enclosure.
After all you can have single insulated cables and even bare terminals in a junction box with a clip on lid.
I agree it is poor work and it's not as thought it would have been difficult to do it properly in the first place. But a waste of time trying to complain to the competent person schemes, history seems to show they will be quick to fine someone who uses their logo if not a member, but taking action against a member who does poor work seems incredibly rare.
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On 24/03/2026 at 20:13, saveasteading said:
That's more for an 850W system than it cost me for my original 3.68kW system.
No wonder there is interest in selling this plug and play kit, it allows suppliers to charge a lot for a small system just for the users that think they are getting something special.
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On 26/03/2026 at 10:54, SteamyTea said:
Nuclear fusion is going to be market ready in 20 years time.
We were first told that 40 years ago.
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23 minutes ago, torre said:
The live and neutral visible at the back should have their outer sheath on too outside the fitting shouldn't they?
Didn't spot those. Definitely lots of shoddy work.
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But it is also oh so simple to put right, I would not even trouble the developer.
Turn off the power to the boiler, unscrew the outer cap, push the cable further in so the sheath is completely inside and put the cover back on and tighten it.
Check there is a rubber bush in there somewhere, that is what compresses to clamp it in place.
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Rip it off and plasterboard.
If you have ANY electrical alterations to do, your electrician will hate you for keeping the lath and plaster.
Just my preference.
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2 hours ago, Russdl said:
No, they make their own. Short of submerging them they can’t be extinguished and if you remove them from the water before they’ve cooled down sufficiently they’ll be off again.I have seen a video of a submerged EV still burning underwater. So that won't extinguish the blaze buy might keep it cool enough to limit the spread until it has burned all it's fuel.
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I am not sure I would want batteries inside the house. IF they do go up in flames, almost impossible to extinguish so almost certain to lead to loss of building even with a long fire protection of their room. I think I would want them outside in a cage.
Only a couple of days ago a huge blaze in Glasgow building collapse and main rail station closed for days. Started as a fire behind the counter in a vape which people tried to put out with extinguishers and failed then it took hold. And this is just a collection of the small batteries in vape's.
I expect insurers to exclude battery fires soon if they don't already. They like a get out clause. There is a burnt out cottage near here, insurers refused to pay out because the investigation revealed the cause as a laptop computer left sitting on a bed plugged in and charging. Presumably it set fire to the bedding. They say that was negligence so not insured.
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28 minutes ago, ToughButterCup said:
Dave .... be kind ...
@Lincolnshire Ian wrote
' ... Our council will start charging us council tax ...'
Ian: the answer is No.
I read it as he already has a building regs completion certificate. If you don't have that I would not have mentioned it. Some of us get confused.
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Why / how do you have a building completion certificate if the plasterboard is not yet on?
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14 minutes ago, -rick- said:
This is a good goal and I think that is an area that could be improved in the original design. Especially upstairs.
If accessibility is a concern then the squarer bathroom is better than a long thin one.
One of our unusual ideas was the combined downstairs WC and utility room. Quite okay by building regs but not to everyones taste having the washing machine and EX in the same room.
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23 minutes ago, Oz07 said:
Even with that garage and bedroom above included in 11m?
no basic house is 11M long plus garage.
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1 minute ago, Alan Ambrose said:
The US dictator will lose interest in Iran quickly - he doesn’t have much of an attention span.
Lets hope so.
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23 minutes ago, Oz07 said:
Yours looks longer but thinner @ProDave? Can't quite zoom in on sizes maybe 13x7 overall? Works well. Im trying to keep the same footprint as existing planning as I get the impression from planners they will make my life easier. Existing plans are 1.5 storey but informal chat with planners indicate they would be open to 2 storey. I just cba with the detailing and insulation on 1.5 storey now. I just want a simple truss roof with an airtight membrane and 4 or 500mm of insulation above. No intermediate supporting ff walls etc. Did have ideas of potential 2nd floor but unnecessary.
Ours is 11M by 7M internal so not that different.
Requirements vary, we did not need or want a GF bedroom for instance.
Ours is 1.5 storey, you would not be allowed anything else here. It is a cut roof supported from a ridge beam. The ridge beam gets intermediate support from the walls either side of the stair well, the only supporting internal walls. Cut roof from a ridge beam gives no intrusions to the upstairs layout unlike attic trusses and dormers. And detailing it as a warm roof all the insulation and air tight layers are encapsulated above the ceiling making it easy to detail and get good.
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I offer our floor plans, as your house is almost the same size and shape as ours.
Context. North is up. Front of house is north facing so at the top of the plans, garden is to the south and West mainly with good views to both.
We have an addition of a single storey sun room at the back and a single garage on the east end of the house with a room above it.
Things we particularly like. The double aspect kitchen diner as noted before in this thread. That opens to the sun room at the back.
The Lounge looks out over the garden to the back / south.
The double doors from both main rooms to the entrance hall that when open make it almost one large space.
Almost no space wasted with corridors and a simple un cluttered layout.
There were some minor changes to the bathroom / en suite at actual build but only minor.
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Our bricklayer pointed them properly (yours did not) and a coat of masonry paint finished them off.
Changes to the grid proposed
in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Posted
Must check to see if Artemis is really going to launch today or is that a victim of the date?