Deejay_2

We did a self build in 2015 and I still have the very comprehensive spreadsheet I set up (I am no expert) which shows every item purchased, cost and VAT which I am happy to email to you but not sure how you would let me have your email address, unless you put it on here. We also sent our plans to two Builders Merchants, Travis Perkins and a local one who listed and priced up everything we would need - each charged about £145 and the cost was refunded when we purchased over £100 of goods. Travis Perkins were the slowest and I don't know what the position is with them these days as I can't even get quotes for materials from them. I found their Bills of Quantity really useful as they basically set out the materials in the order in which they are required for the build. My own spreadsheet does the same thing. We built a six bedroomed, detached house with integral garage in masonry with concrete filled foundations, which required clayboards due to proximity of trees and clay. The builders merchants' BoQs will definitely help - you can decide whether you think ours would be of use.

We are considering remodel of 1970's bungalow. Isn't there a saving to be taken into account over new build of the cost of groundworks. We built on a separate plot on the same site in 2015 and our groundworks up to the block and beam floor cost us £31,000 plus demolition and initial boreholes, soakaway reports etc. We would like to extend the bungalow outwards involving two whole external walls (new footings) and will more or less end up with two breeze block (may be brick) external walls still standing - so almost full demolition. Then remodel internals, new roof etc with rooms in roof. This will allow us to choose an external building material to match the other two new house on the site, and install insulation as required, ufh, etc etc. Does that sound doable. We are in a Conservation Area and feel doing it this way will require less restrictive input from Planning. We have a small competent small builder who would do the work but who is not interested in doing a new build so lot's to consider.

Thank you and I can see what you mean. I wasn't really seeking a response/advice in this instance, just explaining where we are. If we decide to go ahead with the remodel, then I'll re-introduce myself as it's a totally different project from the original.

Thank you for your replies - I have been giving this further thought. We already have draft plans drawn up for a 4 bedroomed house with a triple garage with granny flat above, with an additional 4.5 metre single storey building required to meet the 25 degree rule. So in a straight line from the entrance this goes : 4.5 m single storey, 11.5 m triple garage with flat over, 1 m link attaching garage to 12 m x 12 m house, followed by garden. We are in a conservation area and know Planning will request that we alter the plans to make things less "bulky" which is why I was thinking it might be an idea to separate the triple garage and put it at the bottom of the garden, which is lower and therefore less visible. But then this would entail moving the main house into the space the garage has vacated which would be much nearer to the neighbour and infringe the 21 m requirement between habitable rooms. At that point I wondered whether it was worth bothering - there's seems to always be a rule or regulation to obstruct us. Then I suddenly had a light bulb moment as our current 3 bed bungalow is allowed to be exactly in this nearer position, so why knock it down. We would probably struggle financially to do the original idea but this one we could manage ie build the triple garage at the bottom of the garden, move into the granny flat above it, and then remodel the bungalow whilst it is empty. We can apply for the exemption and as long as we start the development, then we won't have to re-apply to planning ever again. We intend staying in the property long term (well, shorter term for me of course). The bungalow lends itself perfectly to remodelling so why didn't I think of it before. The ground floor is the same meterage as the proposed house, and we would put bedrooms in the roof, hopefully without having to raise it. Also with the repositioning of the buildings we won't need to have the additional 4.5 m single storey building we didn't want. The footings on the house we built in 2016 cost £33,000 so this is a major expense to save, albeit we'll need to pay for footings for the garage. I agree we should put everything on one application and as I think this project would be doable, I shan't be worrying about leaving what would be insurmountable problems for my son, should I die after the development is started - this has been my main worry. As far as I can see from the Internet there is no Council Tax payable if a family dependent lives in the annexe/flat, but I'll need to check that with our Local Authority. We haven't definitely decided to do this yet and I'm now excitedly re-designing the bungalow and looking up how to insulate etc, questions about which I'll ask in the appropriate area. If we decide to go ahead, I'll reintroduce myself as this is a whole new project. I shall now wait with baited breath that no-one will respond with their opening being "You can't do that because ..........."

We have completed our plans for submission to Planning and have decided to reconsider the layout of the buildings for various reasons. The development involves the demolition of a 1970's bungalow and replacing this with a new build house and triple garage with granny annexe over - all set out in a straight line. We now think that for financial reasons as much as anything we should do the development in two stages ie build the triple garage with flat above first - now at the far end of the garden which separates it from the new house, and then demolish the bungalow and replace it with the new house later when we know where we are financially. My questions are: 1 Should we just submit the garage/flat plan initially - the garage and flat m2 will add up to 126 m2 - then if we deduct the floor area of our current detached garage which will be demolished ie 28 m2, this leaves less than the 100 m2 extra floor area allowed for CIL. Will we still have to complete the liability form and seek exemption. 2 When we have established further funds, we then submit further application for demolition of bungalow and construction of replacement house. This will bring us well into the CIL zone, so we would expect to complete required forms and apply for exemption. OR 3 Should we submit the whole development on one planning application but ask that it is done in two phases. If they agree, would this mean the CIL would not kick in until the main house is started. Presumably if we build the triple garage, this will mean the development has commenced and we will serve the requisite notice, but I'm not sure where this leaves us with the main house and CIL. Doing the development in two stages works out much better for us - we can keep our current mortgage, less neighbour/Parish Council objections because the layout we have now decided on is much more acceptable, and it gives us breathing space. We feel two applications would probably be better but wondered whether anyone could advise one way or the other. Many thanks.

I should be grateful for advice on the following please. We submitted our pre-planning application last December and the response indicated a list of requirements for validation, one of which is a Coal Mining Risk Assessment. I emailed the Coal Authority and they sent a form to complete which also required a block plan and location plan. They came back within the same day saying the site does not fall within the Development High Risk Area and therefore does not need a Risk Assessment Report and then went on the say I might like to consider their Consultant's Coal Mining Report (from groundstability.com). I'm not sure whether this is necessary or just them being obliged to sell me something. I managed to locate the information provided to us in 2014 (previous new build) from the Coal Mining Advisory Service via the Local Authority Building Control which consisted of a plan showing a Conjectured Position of Geological Fault ie a line running across the village and including the bottom corner of our garden, together with a fault list with tick boxes with one box ticked which reads "The conjectured surface position of geological faulting crosses the area as shown on the plan". I'm not sure whether to go back to the Coal Authority at this point with this information but am concerned they will use this to "encourage" me to get a further report. Would it be best to leave it and just include with our application the recent email stating we do not require a Coal Mining Risk Assessment and see whether Planning come back requesting a different report. We don't want to spend unnecessary money on futile reports but on the other hand we don't want to put our development at risk in any way. Any advice/opinions would be much appreciated.

Wow, that information is so useful. It looks as though it's another case of specifying suitability for the winter months, with no thought given for the extreme heat in the summer months. WE used an architectural technician last time and we followed his specification - however, the "retired" RIBA architect we are currently using has not offered any advice either. It may be a case of "you get what you pay for". I'm going to research the information you have given - many thanks for going to all that trouble - it's not something I would have considered and as can be seen from my post, I have been concentrating on the windows and shading.

Hi - my spreadsheet indicates SIG Roof Rectocel Rigid Board PIR 130mm SIG Speedline Thermal Laminate 37.5 I am hopefully attaching photos from the house we built previously. I have photos of every stage which is handy as I can now see what could be regarded by the experts as "not very well done". The architect has tried to send the plans for proposed dwelling over to my PC but we have failed so I can't upload them. We are communicating by Royal Mail at the moment - he sends the amended plans (misses stuff off), I re-amend them and post them back - works well to be honest. I'll upload the plans for the previous house as they are similar. However there is a projection on the rear of the proposed house and the garage is a detached triple with granny flat above and we have an additional 4.5 m single storey "gym" to adhere to the 25 degree rule re daylight. We never intended building on the site ourselves so were real amateurs. However having Premier Warranty was an additional back up and well worth the money. Don't laugh but I sort of project managed it myself - ordering all the stuff and then organising trades when the builder had left at the watertight stage. We had no hiccups and the build ran smoothly and stress free. You may say, that's because I let them get away with murder - who knows!!! I'm interested to hear your views on the insulation. Struggling to upload pictures so will do another post.

Thank you again. I'm now researching external blinds (to be fitted in the future if required) and have a few questions. Is it complicated to create an external reveal (?) on sliding doors over which to fit the headbox. Would we be better off having a different style of patio door ie two side panels and two opening doors - all triple glazed (although not preferred). The doors we had fitted in the previous build are approx 4.5 m wide and upvc double glazed sliders and were very heavy. Are aluminium clad doors "thinner" and lighter. I am thinking we may go for a smaller opening ie 3.5 m but we shall not be having any rooflights on this elevation so I am also thinking of the light aspect. It's a largish kitchen/breakfast/family room but does have a further 2 x 1200 x 1200 windows on the southern aspect. It would be good to have large doors but I feel we may live to regret it. Also - someone mentioned ordering their blinds with their windows - the company's name began with a G but I can't remember the name - does anyone know the name of the company. My architect is RIBA but mainly retired and does not seem to offer advice re anything really - he is not expensive and certainly not out to fleece me - so I'm not complaining. However, I feel I need to do as much research as I can before the plans are submitted to avoid changes later. The advice I have received on this site has been amazing and invaluable and I am really grateful.

Thank you for the advice. Have you any suggestions as to who I would go to to have the house thermally modelled. We are building the house in stone and are not looking at PassivHaus. We are restricted on design and orientation. We like everything about the house we completed in 2016 except for all the massive rooflights and the excessive solar gain in the summer. I'll do further research on the blinds as I hadn't taken the size of the headbox into account. Any pointers re thermal modelling would be much appreciated. Many thanks again.

Thank you for all the very useful responses from which I have gleaned the following: 3g glazing is the way to go. We had already decided on ASHP for heating and cooling. Further research to be given to Solar PV and I'll ask questions in the appropriate section. Will research the insulation aspect. Already have reduced the size of the veluxes which are all on the eastern elevation (roof). We can add external shades retrospectively if required. Very interested in the overhangs but will need to discuss size with architect. We have removed all rooflights on the Ssw elevation - roof now clear for Solar PV). The sse (I think) elevation has only 3 small windows so not a problem. We may reduce width of sliders in kitchen/breakfast area but will investigate installation of electrical connection to fit external blinds retrospectively. We are keen to take advantage of the winter sun so hope these measures will help with solar gain in heatwaves, but at least we can fit electrically operated shades/blinds retrospectively if required. Many many thanks for all the input - it is so great to have support and I am learning so much.

As we hope to submit an application soon, I always look at new weekly applications on the local Planning Portal to see what's going on around where I live. The number of applications a few months ago were around 65, over the summer this number dropped to around 32-35, this week there are 3. Definitely a downward trend in numbers at the moment, although I'm sure the 3 example will just be a blip.

We are still in the process of finalising our plans for a self build house. I have been researching solar gain and have come across many posts on this forum. We completed a house build on this site in 2016 and no consideration whatsoever was given to solar gain and the house has many large rooflights. We mistakenly purchased a brand that does not provide external roller shutters/blinds. The internal blackout blinds do not do much to keep the heat out. Many of the rooflights are on the south south west elevation and the house gets very hot during summer hot spells. In order to prevent this overheating on the new house we need to be more genned up at this stage. Apologies for the length of the post! What I think I have established from this forum so far is: Eventually 3g windows will become the norm, which will have the effect of prospective purchasers being put off any house that has 2g glazing. However, 3g is good in the winter months when it helps to keep in the heat, but in the summer actually generates more solar gain than 2g. To counteract this solar gain, shading of some sort would need to be added. To counteract this, one could apply external film – which appears to work really well in reducing the solar gain. However, this will act as a barrier to the sun in the winter months and therefore could increase heating costs. Solar reflective glazing will have the same effects as the film, making the house cooler in the summer, therefore less air conditioning, but also cooler in the winter, requiring more heating – and once it’s in, it’s in. It is suggested that an overhang on the roof would help to shade rooms during the summer months when the sun is high. If there are habitable rooms in the roof, then rooflights become a problem as regards solar gain. After mistakes on our previous build, we realise we should have chosen a top brand, ie Velux, who provide all the gadgetry ie electric/solar operation, solar heat reducing blinds, roller shutter blinds. My thoughts on our house design relative to solar gain are now as follows Install 3g windows but some additional shading will probably be required such as external shutters, external roller/venetian blinds. These would need to be electric/solar operated so research is required now to check on what needs to be installed with the build, even if the shutter/blind is added later. Add an overhang to the roof – say 18” - does anyone have any thoughts on this. Pre-planning want kneelers and copings (Conservation Area), but I would prefer to omit these (and the chimney), and spend the money on a suitably sized roof overhang. All of the veluxes on the proposed house are on the eastern elevation. None on the SSW elevation – for reasons already stated. Would it be better to fit 3g and add external shutters or external blinds to enable heat from the sun in the winter to enter, and to shut it out in the summer. As an aside, I purchased some solar film from a company called Purlfrost to put on the inside of the rooflights at the previously built house but this is rented out and we’ve not been able to install it yet, so nothing to report on its effectiveness. However, I now think putting film on the inside is not such a good idea from what I have read on here. Better to stop the heat getting past the external glass. This company do all types of film and were the only firm I could find that sell the film on a DIY basis – we got ours on a 1m wide roll and so will have to cut it, but I think the company may now cut it to size. Anyone wanting to try out the usefulness of film might find this DIY option useful for a trial. In our case, the rooflights in the built house are mainly very accessible and therefore relatively easy to install the film internally (or externally). It is possible to remove the film for the winter months. With the new house we would look at the external film for the rooflights if things really got too hot. The external shutters/blinds that are electrically/solar operated would be the most sensible option but they are very expensive. However, once fitted they would just be used when needed. Has anyone had any experience of the Velux external roller shutters. Extreme heat really knocks me out and this aspect is therefore very important to me. The 1970’s bungalow we currently live in, which will be demolished is very comfortable. We have blackout vertical blinds on all of our windows and they work very well, although the large ssw facing lounge window still lets in quite a bit of heat, even with the blinds closed all day. We have no rooflights – I now believe these cause major over heating problems. The bungalow does not take a lot to heat it up in the winter, via a gas combi boiler and our heating bills are quite low – considering there is no wall insulation. In fact, if we installed an external blind on the lounge window for really hot days, I would say the temperatures of our living environment are near perfect. Strange how all the new stuff being introduced seems to cause nothing but problems, in that concentrating on the winter months, has brought serious overheating problems in the summer, when in fact we have known for a long time that the winters are getting milder and the summers are getting hotter. I have just read in the newspaper that the National Grid has had to fire up two coal fired power stations this week (heatwave Sept 2021) to increase supplies of electricity because of the increased use of air conditioning. You couldn’t make it up! I would be so grateful if anyone has experiences to share of any of the above and also point out where I have got things wrong. Many thanks.

I would advise against doing any structural work without the consent of the Freeholder. If you do, you will breach your lease and may end up having to forfeit your flat ie they will reclaim it from you. You own nothing but the right to live in the flat until the end of the lease term - you own neither the flat or the land the building stands on - so basically you are a tenant but with few rights. You might like to join the National Leasehold Campaign Facebook site - you will be amazed what you discover. There will be many others on there with Notting Hill Genesis as their freeholder and it might help to ask on the site of others' experiences in trying to carry out alterations. Leasehold is a national scandal and if you take the time to read the accounts of people who have been duped by the developers/freeholders/incompetent conveyancers, you will realise just how many thousands of people, particularly young people/first time buyers are now trapped and unable to sell. If you are unaware of the above, I think this is something you should bear in mind, other than just complying with Building Regulations.

Wow - the post about the VAT reclaim is very enlightening. It would seem to make sense to omit a rooflight on our first submission if we decide to keep the top floor as a cinema room and a storage room and then change to bedrooms later. After approval, we would then seek an NMA to change the two rooms to bedrooms with one shared bathroom, which course of action we would have ensured requires a further rooflight - without the extra rooflight, planning would say they were not interested in internal changes and would not grant an NMA. Am I correct in this. Better to stand the cost of the NMA than risk being rejected by HMRC. Very useful information - thank you.

Sorry to be so persistent. When the architect and myself discussed removal of the two roof bedrooms from our plans, the main dwelling was considerably nearer to our one neighbour who I felt might "feel they were affected" in some way and who would then more than likely lodge an objection. Altho I gave the architect plans of what we were looking for at our first meeting, I was aware that these would probably change due to the 25 degree rule re loss of daylight/sunlight on said neighbours. In fact, to obey this rule, all the buildings have moved along the site away from the neighbours by 4.5 m so the main dwelling is 4.5 m extra distance from said neighbour, which is why I'm re-considering our decision to remove the bedrooms. However, I feel Planning may ask us to reduce the triple garage which will then bring the main house back closer to the neighbour. My architect is retired and we are both in our 70's I think and somehow our communication channels are not too good. His plans are excellent and I also get a 3D image. I don't want to keep messing him around and would like to be certain of the best thing to do before asking him to change the plans again. I know others take objections more lightly but I'd like to avoid them if possible, and don't mind taking the longer route (ie NMA) if it avoids friction. We don't socialise with our neighbour but do rub along nicely which is important as we live on a private road (ours) and have joint interest in things like parking and sewers. Anyway, the question is - would I need a NMA to change the cinema room and storage space in the roof to 2 bedrooms a) because they become habitable rooms b) as stated in previous post, safety aspects like fire doors and door opening sizes. Any help would be appreciated.

Thank you. I didn't know that about the Council Tax - thanks for that - I'll look it up. Do you know, or does anyone else know, whether we would require an NMA if we decide to put the framework and plumbing in after planning approval. If I gather all the information I need, I can then make a decision about whether to just include the bedrooms now, ie before submission.

Our Architect is in the process of preparing our plans for submission and its not proving easy which is why I'm seeking advice. The plans show a cinema room and storage area in the roof of the main dwelling, with a full staircase to reach them. My question is, if we obtain planning permission and then decide to change this space into two bedrooms, each with an ensuite, would we require a non material amendment. I ask this as I have read that Planning are not interested in internal changes. What we would like to do is install all the plumbing required for the ensuites and perhaps the stud walls for two bedrooms but go no further until they are required in the future. Does the fact that the use will change to habitable rooms make a difference, although there will be no overlooking issues and no further windows will be required over and above those on the original submitted application form. The development is not particularly low key, size wise, but we felt a 3 bedroomed house (with additional triple garage with granny flat over) might attract less objections than a five bedroomed house (ie "why do they want all those rooms). I know there are no set NMA rules, but wondered whether anyone has had any experience of this.

Thank you everyone for responding. We built a house on the site in 2014 almost the same as the proposed one except new proposal has triple garage with flat above and there was no CIL then. I've been checking my spreadsheet of costs from that build against current prices and can see the prices have probably doubled. This is making me wonder whether realistically we can afford it. If we end up selling said bungalow to purchase say small house/flat for me and house for son to give us separate accomm, I feel we would realise more money if the bungalow has planning permission for new dwelling which is very fashionable around here. Hence the questions. 1 I intended putting my older son and myself on the planning application form - does this bear any relevance to the CIL liability form - ie should we apply in all 3 names as joint owners or doesn't it matter. Ok - the answer to this question is clear. Thank you. 2 Because we jointly own the property, do we need to put all 3 names on the CIL Assumption of Liability Form. I had originally intended just putting Son A and myself on the form as we occupy the bungalow (mainly in case I die during the building process), but now I am thinking we all have to be included on the form as owners. "The exemption will apply to anybody who is building their own home or has commissioned a home from a contractor, house builder or sub-contractor. Individuals claiming the exemption must own the property and occupy it as their principal residence for a minimum of three years after the work is completed." Also as can be seen from the quote it appears all three of us will have to occupy the property for 3 years after completion which would mean Son B having to come and live with us as well. Do you think I have interpreted this correctly. Still not sure about this one ie it says "must own the property". In fact, the 3 of us own one third each so not sure that putting one on the CIL form will be acceptable. Son A would presumably live there the longest as I have a much shorter use by date. So, for example, if only his name goes on the Assumed Liability Form (subject to LA confirming this is OK), then will it only be him that will be expected to live there for 3 years, even though he only owns one third. 3 Although we would like to build the house if we obtain planning permission, should we be unable to raise the necessary funding, would we be able to transfer the CIL exemption if we decided to sell the property before commencing any work. Also, if the owner just wanted to "modernise" the bungalow and didn't wish to implement the planning approval would the CIL liability just die out. Form 7 Part 1 Self Build Exemption Claim Form is submitted before any work is started but after Planning Permission has been granted - is this correct - which means we could sell with planning permission before we reach Form 7 Stage, and transfer Acceptance of Liability to new owner. (We don't want to do this - we had hoped to start work to implement the planning permission and then take our time deciding what to do, and if I die or whatever, my sons could sell the bungalow with planning permission if they wanted to. Really just taking advantage of my willingness to take on the task of getting the plng approval - neither son would want to do this whereas it is a good hobby for my retirement. 4 Say we start the build with the sole intention of not having to re-apply for planning permission after 3 years, and then decide to sell and the new owner wants to carry on with the build, can we transfer the CIL exemption over to the new owner. So I need to ask local CIL where we stand with this. If person purchasing is building for own residential use they may be allowed to somehow take on the exemption either by transfer or putting in their own application. I'll try and get clarification on this and post what they say. Thank you for the input which has been very helpful and which has made things much clearer for me although probably more confusing for everyone else, which I'm apt to do.

I am trying to ensure I have everything covered before submitting our planning application. We intend to demolish our 1970s bungalow and replace it with a detached house and triple garage with "granny" flat over for me. The bungalow is owned jointly ie myself and two sons My older son (son A) and myself live in the bungalow and my younger son (son B) lives elsewhere. Questions: 1 I intended putting my older son and myself on the planning application form - does this bear any relevance to the CIL liability form - ie should we apply in all 3 names as joint owners or doesn't it matter. 2 Because we jointly own the property, do we need to put all 3 names on the CIL Assumption of Liability Form. I had originally intended just putting Son A and myself on the form as we occupy the bungalow (mainly in case I die during the building process), but now I am thinking we all have to be included on the form as owners. "The exemption will apply to anybody who is building their own home or has commissioned a home from a contractor, house builder or sub-contractor. Individuals claiming the exemption must own the property and occupy it as their principal residence for a minimum of three years after the work is completed." Also as can be seen from the quote it appears all three of us will have to occupy the property for 3 years after completion which would mean Son B having to come and live with us as well. Do you think I have interpreted this correctly. 3 Although we would like to build the house if we obtain planning permission, should we be unable to raise the necessary funding, would we be able to transfer the CIL exemption if we decided to sell the property before commencing any work. Also, if the owner just wanted to "modernise" the bungalow and didn't wish to implement the planning approval would the CIL liability just die out. 4 Say we start the build with the sole intention of not having to re-apply for planning permission after 3 years, and then decide to sell and the new owner wants to carry on with the build, can we transfer the CIL exemption over to the new owner. I am very keen not to make a mistake as regards CIL and realise how important it is to follow due process. I am sorry there are so many questions but I am hoping there is someone knowledgeable in this particular area who may be able to advise me, and maybe others, as the whole CIL thing seems to be very complicated. Many thanks.

Hi - thanks for your response. I had got it wrong (already!). The cost of £3,000 is up to obtaining Building Reg approval. Then £1500 for additional detailed drawings if required and a specification to enable a tender to be obtained and to control the quality of the work. She will invite builders to quote and advise on tenders received. Instruct builder monitor progress and quality. Will also provide Certificate of progress if required for lender including Certificate on Completion. She does say "monitoring the works on site" and "instructing the builder". Still an unbelievable price. I also think she may do 3D representations with the planning drawings. I am not getting carried away with this but honestly at the moment I am so pleased. If this were to materialise, then we could dispense with a Warranty provider, which in itself would be a great saving. I'll keep posting on this - next time I might be crying.

I submitted a pre-planning application with plans I amended which were done in 2014 by an architectural technician who we would have happily used again but he is now retired and much prefers to bird watch. I have found the experience of trying to find someone else a little daunting. Firstly I contacted a local arch technologist who took a month to respond with a quote. He quoted for his plans incl BC and then attached quotes from several companies re reports that might be required eg Tree Report £500 (no trees), D&A statement (would amount to £2000 in the end), Heritage Statement (also £2000 with everything added), fill application form £250 and so it went on. His own plans were reasonably priced but the total would have reached around £10000 plus VAT. 3 others approached were too busy. Looking at the Planning portal I could see that some architects do their own reports where they can, so thought maybe the costs might balance out. The Architect I chose from the planning portal is RIBA qualified but is retired but still does some work. She was interested so off went the plans I had done. She said she does her own reports and as I have already done both D&A and Heritage reports myself (plagiarised from others) she said she could adapt these where required. There is no VAT and on the face of it she fits in with all our requirements ie flexible, knowledgeable, experienced and not expensive. The price she has quoted is £3000 and includes drawings for Plng and BC, drawings for obtaining tenders and overseeing the build (if I have read this correctly). Am I going to wake up from this dream or am I going to be totally disillusioned by the responses I receive from here. I have checked her out on the Architects Registration Board and have seen a couple of examples of her work on the Planning Portal. I have another Arch technician interested and am very impressed with his website and his knowledge and his costs are also reasonable but there is just some niggle of a doubt. I have therefore decided to engage the Architect but no doubt will get more of a feel for things during discussions with her before I sign any contract. Does it sound as though I have been lucky.

We are hoping to obtain planning permission to demolish our bungalow and build a replacement house with a granny flat over the garage. We are at the stage of having a response to our pre-planning application and I have learned so far that everyone within this world is swamped with work. I have already posted a couple of times and no doubt will be doing so on a regular basis. The architectural technician we used in 2011 to successfully gain planning permission for two houses on our site has now retired and it has been quite a job finding someone. Hopefully we have, but I shall post details of this experience on the appropriate thread. At this early stage, having people not answering phones or too busy to take on more work has almost put me off but I realise it will only get more difficult in the future, so for the time being I'm pressing on. Thanks to all those who contribute to this site - what a wealth of information and experiences.

Thank you - I will check the terms and conditions as suggested. I "always" do things by the book and would probably end up speaking to them first anyway, just in case something goes wrong during the build. However, it will be interesting to see what the terms and conditions say.