Ronan 1

Snip of precast drawing

Rear elevation

Side elevation

I don't have any SE drawings that show anything bar steel in the roof , I can post elevations but they show even less detail about the porch. I can get one of the SE's at work to have a look at it but I want to settle my head on it first

OK Gents, I have precast slabs coming next week and have a conundrum I need help with. The attached photo it shows the rear of my house with has a covered patio which will also act as a balcony for the master bedroom. This will be achieved by using 200mm precast slabs spanning between the external leafs of the external wall and for the last 1.5 meters it will span between the lintels shown supported on the blockwork piers and the external leaf of the external wall. So to my question do I need to put a Steel between the 2 piers to stop any movement towards or away from each other OR the fact that I will pour a monolithic slab on top of them which will be 100mm wider than the slabs at the rear and parallel between the piers with will bond them and should also stop any chance of sideways movement. Apologies if this is a bit rambling and doesn't make sense but it one of those things is very clear to me but I keep ping pinging between my decision and the time is NOW.

Yeah I'm lucky we do alot of heavy civils so have Lots of large plant about even managed to get the free lend of a dump drunk and 2 drivers for fortnight but a bit like the dozer the big plant is great except when you pull up to fill the bowser with diesel ⛽ 😖 I'd hate to think of what it would have cost if I had to pay so one to do it...

Yes that's my take on it BUT I could and often am wrong. Of you find out different let me know as it will make a difference to some big purchases 8ve coming up

My understanding is no you can't BUT I'd be delighted to be wrong

I had a few window companies in the south supply and fit and none would do vat free , same actually for precast slabs and stone

I've plenty of room around the house for it and when I was digging and redistributing circa 2000m3 of muck on site anything less would have been a real pain. I've a block grab for it too so the block layers are using it so it dead handy and the fact it's free is also a nice bonus. One the slabs go on I'll probably swap it out for something smaller . Plus I know the driver and he is pretty tasty

Your going well Nod, it's flying up, I was hoping to be up to first floor level next week myself but the bloody weather here this week has put that out the window, thankfully I've been 25ton machine ive left on site to lift the steels whenever we get there

Generally priced per ton for cut and bent and per m2 for mesh. Location and m2 area and overall tonnage will make a big difference to price also

Hi if you need to underpin by only a few hundred mm I'd ditch the trench prop, there is really no need at all. Just make sure you dig them in a hit and miss sequence. I personally do not like a top fill pin and much prefer to dry pack my pins but to be honest they are that shallow it won't really make much difference.

What horse shit.... I designed something no architect was able to give me which is what I want and a way I want to build it. I brought it to an architect( award winning) who is a relative of a good friend to put into planning and BC drawings and to ensure I wasn't missing anything and he reckoned he wouldn't change a thing Where most Architects fail is they are more interested in what they like and disregard their client opinions as inferior... hence alot of self builders treat them with less than the respect good ones deserve... P.s I'm a big fan of good architects and if plot was different or I wasn't in the game and had such a clear vision I would definitely have used one.

Gents I'll have doors 915mm wide (36inch) and 2147mm high (84.5 inches) in my new build what size ope should I leave in the blockwork ?? I.e should I allow and extra 50mm all round ??