graeme m

I have no mortgage but I may want one after the build. Which lenders don't expect a warranty?

I think there's more to it than normal LV UFH. It only heats up where it's needed. If the sun is shining on a patch of floor that patch will not heat.

Thanks for that. We have looked at those flexi panels, they look good but they aren't as efficient at fixed panels. I don't think we'd gain anything but I will look again.

http://www.epwarmfloorltd.com/

I got that a bit wrong, I thought the total was £670, that's just for site insurance, they want nearly £2000 for a warranty , sod that.

I've had it in my last two houses, plumbed. Not sure it's the best option in thisnew build though. We are planning to leave wiring points in all rooms if it proves we need to add the Norwegian UFH.

Thanks for that. I was thinking oil filled electric rads in the bathrooms or that norwegian underfloor heating.

Anyone used Protek. Looks resonable to me £670 site insurance and 10 year building Warrenty included?

Ferdinand have a look at the plan and you'll see what we have. The roof is zinc, we can either run between the joins or cut around the panels or sit on top, not keen on the las option.512-1-002-ProposedFloor&RoofPlans-10.pdf512-1-002-ProposedFloor&RoofPlans-10.pdf

Please see me response.

The issue is I have a small south facing roof at a low pitch 30m2, there's no space in the garden for panels, there is a large garage with a flat roof of 28m2 but as a condition of our planning Arun Council (howk Spit) have removed any permitting developement rights so I'm not even sure we can use the garage roof. The plan is to prepare the house for batteries and install once they become viable. I can fit a gas boiler as back up but was hoping to avoid this. I'm just not sure we can get enough KWs from the space.

Hi Dave, I had them on my old house for 7 years so I know the pros and cons. We live in the sunniest part of the UK so are better off than most with Solar. I agree Fits is not worth the cost of a recognised installer. I'd just like to know if there's any new inovations coming to the market as we need to get as many KW as we can.

As the plan is to run our new home on electrickery we need high yield panels, especially as the roof is is some what limited in space. So what is the latest on PV panels?

I can't find much difference in price between the two and suspect LW will turn out more expensive when fitting is added on. There's a guy doing a selfbuild down the road using internorm and recommends them highly. I've been on the window roundabout for a year now, I've looked at everything and internorm is my choice although I am going fully passive certified. Good luck

This is pretty much it. Ground floor plan, 1st is one room, living, kitchen and 9m2 terrace. We might want to including a heating element but it's a small house. 110m in total including the terrace. Usually only two of us but when our sons come home 4 in total. There's only three bedrooms and one of those will be an office. Possibly a sofa bed in lounge too. MVHR routes.pdf

Any advice on which is the best?

Internorm it is then.

Round two or is it three? Due to various hold ups more to do with us changing our minds than anything else we have yet to progress to building on our Passivhaus. We have decided to go all in for full certification (some may remember i was deliberating the point) this of course means windows, doors, balcony doors (now sliders as bi-fold just don't hit the targets unfortunately) and roof lights have to be very low U and airtight to silly degrees. The size of the house 110m2 on two floors doesn't help the calculations, especially with the completely open plan 1st floor living, kitchen, dining and outside area. Internorm are currently the top contenders however a late entry are Livingwood, who appear willing to do what ever it takes to make their windows fit the desired calculations and knock a fair pile of pound notes off the Internorm quote. So the big question Living wood windows anyone?

I can see my garage slipping away.

I was thinking the same and we all know what that means.....

Am I right in thinking any heat introduced into the house, eg towel rads are going play havoc with the overall are temperature? The other half loves (it would appear) doing laundry and in the colder months will need a drying area (and no she can't use the garage). There will be a dryer somewhere but you can't be using that all the time.

Thanks Jeremy. All the bathrooms are on the ground floor. I'm going to have a look at the low voltage matting for the ground floor. This stuff looks interesting, website is awful though. http://www.ukwarmfloor.com/

I have a meeting with Architect and PHPP designer today. I have been told in the past that UFH is not suitable for a Passive house as the lowest temp rate is still too high for a PH. Clearly as your houses show this is not the case. I have had (wet) UFH heating in my last two houses and most of the time one wouldn't even know it was on, if you felt heat in the floor IMO it was set too high. The new build is upside down with three modest bedrooms, a family bathroom and and ensuite on the ground floor, This would involve installing 5 (wet UFH) zones. Up stairs is open plan with a balcony/terrace. It isn't a large house by any standard (plans are below). I have a two year old Valiant combi boiler that came from the demolished house which I was planning on fitting for hot water back up and bathroom towel rails, perhaps I should put in a couple of Rads upstairs too. As I said the archtiect has three rads in her pH and says she's only turned on one rad once in the last two years. We both work from home and one of the bedrooms will be used everyday as an office, with this in mind perhaps LV electric heating may be a better option using the power from the solar panels. I had intended on Ceramic tiles in the bathrooms and 1st floor perhaps something softer may feel better on a non-heated floor? I'm begining to wish I'd just went for a traditional structure insulated to the knockers and conventional heating, I'd be finsihed building and living in it by now, not to mention significantly better off. Final 512-1-002-ProposedFloor&RoofPlans-9-1.pdf

I'm awaiting details but the architect and PhPP bloke say it is now possible to heat and yes the house will be to PH standard at least. I've also decided to go for full testing during the build, we may not want the plastic badge in the end but, we will know how the house functions and if some naughty tradesman has made a cock up, so to speak, before it's all too late. I may still include a radiator in each bathroom and one in the lounge. My architect says she intalled three in her PH and she's only ever switched one on once.