PaddyP

Thanks @Russell griffiths will have a look for a Triton stockist in Ireland as that's where I am based. I cannot find any peel and stick membranes online. Could you direct me to any brands? Will also contact ICF supplier. Thanks a million.

Would this maybe do the trick as an extra layer of protection ? https://www.screwfix.com/p/bostik-flashband-grey-10m-x-150mm/55009

Thank you all very much for the replies. Yes @FM2015all roofing and guttering is on and windows in. Just awaiting external cladding and flashing to arrive and install. Thanks @Russell griffithswill have a look into the triton and see if any local builder providers have a stick on membrane available. Sounds good @saveasteadingcheap and cheerful! Is it blackjack suitable for painting directly on to eps?

@JamesP your ceiling looks fantastic! Love the exposed timber. Real attention to detail required there! Hi @JohnMo thanks a million for those pictures. Great to see that the flat bit is barely noticable. Thank you everyone for their help. I will speak with the structural engineer and see what they reckon. Has anyone used scissors trusses? While the flat bit is barely noticeable I still would like to avoid it if I can without too much additional cost and effort.

Hi all, I am currently building a house using a Kore insulated raft foundation and 350mm Amvic Passicve ICF block. Since the ICF walls have been completed we have noticed patches of damp on the slab where the ICF wall meets the floor. These damp patches are located randomly around the perimeter and are not located just under windows so doesn't appear to be an issue with sills. The raft foundation is our finished floor and will be polished in the coming weeks. After contacting Kore their solution to solve this problem and prevent further issues is to install a basecoat and seal the connection this way. However, the house will battened and clad in corrugated metal so this solution is not of much use to me. From what I unfortunately only now see, this seems to be a fairly common issue. We have not yet completed our external cladding and flashings yet so perhaps that will solve the problem by directing water away from the junction and I am worrying prematurely. However, if this does not fix the problem it will be much more difficult to fix after cladding so would like to go overkill now if necessary. Detail below was used during construction. Stepped DPC detailed was not installed due to the starter bars. In hindsight a hydrophilic tape/waterstop should have been added but unfortunately too late for that now. Has anyone come across a product solution to this issue? or can think of a

Well I'm more of a lurker than a poster around here I think this thread encapsulates all the good that this forum has to offer. Lots of valuable feedback here for any self builder to look over. @ETC@etc has provided two excellent designs. While I prefer the first one the one above seems to fit more to your style and is a marked improvement from the architects draft.

Hi Russell, thank you very much for your feedback. That sounds like an excellent option using the Web joists. Does it need to be sheeted in OSB on the outside or just a felt? It will be a slated roof. Hi Peter, I have just received planning so just trying to get an idea of things in my head. I will definitely have a structural engineer on board. The scissors truss looks a good option. Hi @Ralph that looks a great space. From your picture it is difficult to see the flat piece at all.

Hi there I hope you are all keeping well. I am currently looking the roof design of our house. We are trying to achieve a vaulted ceiling in the open plan area. This area measure 5m wide x 12m long. We are trying to achieve a full height pointed apex and on the ceiling and not have a flat piece at the top. The picture below shows the finish we are trying to achieve. However, most people appear to have a flat bit at the apex rather than a point. In many cases this is to hide MVHR pipes. We will also have MVHR in the build so wondering is there an alternative? How can we achieve full height apex ceiling and still have space for services? Some options I have come across are scissors trusses and parallel chord trusses. Are these viable options or am I barking up the wrong tree? Any opinions links, pictures etc are greatly appreciated!

I got the Amvic 350 block directly from Amvic. I am in Ireland myself and got it directly from their factory to my site. This was last summer so not sure what their current situation is like. I dealt with Alan and Cillian in Amvic, both were very helpful.

I used the Amvic Passive 350mm block. This gives a u-value of 0.15. It is 100mm insulation 150mm concrete 100mm insulation. Would recommend the Amvic system but not haven't used any others to compare against.

Hi all, We are just finishing off the roof structure here and hit a bit of a bump in the road. The house is split into two blocks each with a 5° monopitch roof. We had wanted to put a metal standing seam roof on however had struggled to find a supplier that would a. give a guarantee at 5° b. could roll 20 metre lengths required for the roof c. would not cost the moon and stars. I eventually did find a supplier but now unfortunately this has fallen through so am exploring other options. The roof structure is Thermoroof insulated panels, 50mm battens for ventilation and decked in 18mm OSB. The options I appear to have are as follows: Fibreglass/ GRP: always appears to be highly recommended on the forum here. From research only appears to be as good as the installer. Where I am in the South East of Ireland not the most popular choice and installers are lacking so not my first choice. Single Ply Membrane: mechanically fixed to the roof. Soprema and Trocal are some of the brands used by installers here. One Trocal installer visited the site and said he spends most of his time on repairs these days which has sent alarm bells ringing. EPDM Rubber Roofing: Firestone is the only real option for this here. Single sheet glued down appears to be fairly highly regarded with a 25 year warranty and expected lifespan Of 50 years plus. To me the Firestone EPDM appears to be a clear winner. Reasonable price, long lifespan and reasonably robust. Is there anything I'm missing here? Is there downfalls to EPDM I'm not aware of or any horror stories? Thank you very much for your help!

Hi @ToughButterCup yes it's a metal reveal I'm looking for. I agree it looks fantastic when done well. The difficulty I appear to be having is nobody seems to want to take responsibility for it. As it's off standard and it's falling between trades. As you can see in the picture below we just have one window with this feature so while not essential would be a nice feature and would like to keep it.

Hi all, I am having a little bit of trouble with the external window reveal of one of our windows. We want to extend this further and create an overhang like in the picture below. The house is ICF and to be clad in corrugated metal. Keeping the windows watertight is a major concern of mine. We have come to a solution for all other windows except this one. Has anyone done something similar and would be willing to share their solution? Or have an idea who I should approach? Would this be something for a specialist metal fabricator? All the best, I hope

Hi Blynchy, I'm in Ireland myself and building with Amvic ICF and Thermoroof panels are being delivered this morning. Can definitely recommend the KORE insulated raft and Amvic ICF. Will let you know how the Thermoroof goes!

I have gotten 3d imaging for two houses from the website Fiverr. It is a free lancing website so their are hundreds of different people providing the service. Have a look through their reviews, portfolio's and pricing to see which one best suits your needs. Most will include 2-3 revisions and changes of things that they didn't get right the first time. I paid about £120 each time for 8-10 external render images.