Adsibob

Update: installer has identified three small leaks across two of our four UFH manifolds. I'm not sure if these are "new". The water marks may have been there from day one, but he tightened the joints on three spots and said he was pretty sure this would fix it. So for the moment there is no need to flush the system with chemicals.

Surely a big aspect of this forum is time wasting/procrastination/fun. I found this thread an enjoyable use of my time, even though nothing materially useful will come out of reading it.

If this knitted UVC jacket came with this model, I would definitely get one.

It’s possible they are all red to indicate that there is something hot inside: like the colour indicators on hot and cold taps.

The installer is coming on Wednesday to do a more thorough check for leaks than I've been able to do, but i'm fairly confident there are no obvious leaks. It's obviously leaking somewhere, but not somewhere out in the open.

what would this look like?

Interesting. I believe @jack and I have similar units. I have a Brink Flair 400. Ours was commissioned by CVC and I’m sure they have the statutory amounts. Our air is a touch on the dry side in winter, so maybe I should turn the flow rate down a bit. On the whole I’ve been very happy with it. In the rooms where we have spent a bit more and have Lindab Airy valves/terminals it is silent . That includes in our master bedroom, en-suite, guest bedroom, study and living areas. In the other bathrooms and in the kids bedrooms we went for the cheap valves/terminals and it is just about audible. It would annoy me if it was in our bedroom like that, but nobody else has complained. Ours only really gets audible in our bedroom and en-suite when it is boosted, but even then it’s not that noticeable.

It’s because it’s the colour of socialism.

We have discovered that some of our 2G windows are draughty. The draught is coming in at the corner of the openable frames. Quite disappointed given these windows were very expensive and marketed as highly energy efficient. I’m going to raise this with the suppliers (who also did the install), but I’m just wondering how easy it is to fix this without using those unsightly aftermarket products. Windows were installed about 18 months ago, and I suspect the problem has been there from the beginning.

Thanks. You are assuming a level of familiarity with these things that is a bit ambitious. For example, what does this mean: And how do I:

Oh I see! Well not really, I’m blind as a bat when it comes to these things. here are two photos of my magnaclean. How exactly does one dose through this?

In the end the modulation got back down to my usual reading in the 30s very quickly. I was just panicking (I’m an expert at that). Yes, we’re have a magnaclean fitted. Why would I need to dose more water? I’ve already topped up the pressure by turning two little valves that my plumber told me were for topping up. Weirdly, now that the house and HW have been heated and the boiler is off, it’s showing the actual flow temp as 74C. Not sure why that is.

I have mentioned here before that our Viessmann Vitodens 200W 35Kw system boiler occasionally loses pressure. It happens every 8 weeks or so. @Nickfromwales recommended flushing the system with a special sealant and I’ve asked my installer to do this… still waiting. Yesterday night the boiler recorded a low pressure fault at 1124pm. We didn’t notice till 9am this morning when we woke up and realised we’re had no heating and the hot water was warm. I’ve topped up the pressure to 2.1, and this caused the boiler to start firing up again. I noticed that the flow temp slowly went up from 20C to 65C, it took about 10 minutes to get there. I also noticed that the modulation of the boiler was 98% to 100%. This has slowly come down to 55% as the boiler has been running over the last 40 minutes or so, but that is still much too high for normal. Even with every UFH zone on and our 2 rads and HW switched on, the boiler doesn’t go over 50%. At the moment, wet only have the HW, the two towel rads and about half the UFH on. Am I just being impatient, and will the modulation fall to around 35 or 40% eventually, which is where I’d expect it to be for this level of demand? Can anyone explain why this is happening Is it to do with the boiler running less efficiently until the whole system pressure is balanced?

Machine gun assisted camera? Or better still, camera assisted machine gun? If anyone knows where I can get one, please let me know.

Here is our design. in terms of additional countermeasures, shall I go for electrocution or just barbed wire? What about those fake guard dog sound emitters?

Thanks, just been reading up on this/watching the videos and it looks good. What depth fixing would you use for 50mm of EWI on a single brick wall. I presume I need to anchor off the masonry and not just the EWI, so will 100mm fixings do?

Sorry, you're right. It's Kooltherm K5 that we have, about 50mm worth, stuck onto very old masonry (it's a refurb of a 1930s semi) and then covered with a plastic mesh and a silicone render. But there is foil; it's just on the inside of the bricks, as part of a damp proofing fix that we implemented.

I do get those alerts, but I turn my phone off at night, otherwise I'd be woken up by every fox and squirrel. There is a way to set it to just trigger for humans, but it doesn't always work. I'm not sure why that is. I guess the algorithms are only so good. We also have security lighting that comes on, triggered by animals, and that in itself might trigge the Ring. I'm not sure.

I want to connect a PoE outdoor ring camera to a powerline (like this): https://www.amazon.co.uk/TL-PA4010PKIT-Passthrough-Configuration-AmazonBasics-RJ45-CAT6-Ethernet-LAN-Patch-Cable/dp/B07V2966DM/ref=psdc_429888031_t3_B01G5Q9E0O I have seen PoE injectors that can convert an ethernet cable supplying both power and data to two separate outputs: (1) an ethernet cable with only data; and (2) a power supply. Does the reverse of this exist, and if so, what's it called?

I wanted to check with my electrician before I start drilling holes into the external wall where the gate will be mounted, but he's not picking up his calls. I have external lights with PIR sensors installed along that wall, about 9' from the ground, spaced about 2m apart. As long as I'm not drilling in a line below these lights or a between them, am I save to assume i won't hit a wire? I could buy a sensor, but I'm not sure it will work, as the wall has 40mm or 45mm of insulation which includes foil and that may interfere with any sensor's signal.

He only appears to come in to our side passage, not out. He must go out via somebody else’s property. Our house looks new compared to the others, and I made a point of making sure all our ground floor windows and doors are PAS24 rated. The side door is solid. But ours is the only house without a side passage gate, hence easy for him to come in to our garden, then access all of our neighbour’s gardens. I’m tempted to stake out the passage armed with a shotgun. But I don’t own a shotgun.

I urgently need to put up a secure gate in our side passage. There have been some burglaries in our street this week, and today one of the victims knocked on my door and asked if she could look at my Ring doorbell footage. Sure enough, on the night in question (at 450am!) the bloody shit waltzed down my front steps and onto my side passage, completely unfazed by my security lighting coming on. He used my side passage to get into our garden, and from there jumped into the neighbour’s garden and stole some bikes from their shed. I have a quote for a steel gate but the lead time is 8-10 weeks. I guess I could install an off the shelf wooden one in the meantime, but was wondering if anybody knows any companies who could do something in steel more quickly, within a week or less ideally.

So I finally figured out the problem. It was pretty incredible really. A second fitter came after the first installation failed and “fixed it” with the “missing fire cement”. Then it failed again and he came back, together with two other people from his company AND a rep from the stove manufacturer. None of those 4 so called professionals spotted that the baffle was missing from the top of the fire box until I said: “could the problem be anything to do with this”, pointing at a rectangle of dense insulation that was still in the box and explaining that “I asked the original installer what this was for, but he said it was ‘probably just to protect the stove during transit’ but that didn’t sound right to me, so I kept it.” At that point, the manufacturer rep, says “well that’s the baffle, the installer clearly didn’t check the installation manual as that makes clear how this should be installed”. He showed me in the manual. At this point I asked what the purpose of the baffle was and I was given a list of various benefits, including that it keeps most of the heat in the stove, so that it can warm up your room, rather than letting too Much heat get into the flue pipe. Clearly, without the baffle the flames were getting into the pipe and over heating the connection between the adaptor and the flue pipe. It was that join which was leaking. Bloody morons. I feel like I should complain to HETAS about these cowboys. Still waiting for them to bring a replacement adaptor and do the installation for a third time!

These days, the standard Grohe cisterns are so pathetically light on volume of water that I don’t think spillage is an issue. I think all of mine are fine. There is a slight amount of calibration on the cisterns if there’s any issue. I have a brand new, still in the box Duravit P3 Comforts with soft close lid and wonder gloss finish on the porcelain if anybody wants to buy it off me. Cost me about £480 including the soft close seat but I will consider any sensible offer.

We had some off cuts of 18mm MDF, so are going to use those. It's too thick for the depth of the hole, which is about 15mm, but with the adjustable legs on the pax wardrobes, we should be okay. I expect the MDF will compress a bit (these are 75cm wide by 236cm high wardrobes, with an additional 40cm high unit placed on top, and filled with lots of clothes).