markharro

So this has got me thinking. If this new driver lasts a similar time to the one that failed how do you plan to be able to replace these things? I assume you normally fit them in the circuit behind plasterboard. Once hidden away and the wall finished and plastered and painted what do you do if/when the driver fails? should you design in some sort of access hatch?

In the end it turned out that the (brand new) driver was the issue. I got send a replacement and now all is well!

Thanks v much. Be good to get some more input on this as well.

Almost finished the backer board and then will tape before using a tanking roll on product. Can I leave this hole "open" or does it needed sorted and if so how? The reason its there was to fit the cement backer board as the pipe that feeds the outlet to the right pushes out a bit. Thanks

Thanks Dave. First question is how do I tell between mcb and rcd? Once I know that I can check what I have connected to our external power sockets on our shed. Then I might be able to run an extension cord from there. Yes def cut in the correct spot and then sealed with special silicone glue I bought. The thing is after I did all this and mounted the strip in a metal housing and then clipped on the diffuser and then siliconed the end caps I tested it in the house and it worked fine. It was plugged in to the exact same power socket.

At the moment we only have our ASHP and solar PV connected to our 3phase consumer unit. Other than that we have 4 temporary power sockets energised. We are using these to power our internet router/switch and MVHR from time to time and a couple of lights etc. Also power tools from time to time. I am currently installing a 2.5m external LED strip. I checked carefully with the supplier that the strip and driver are compatible. You will see the specs in the photos. I cut the 5m strip down to the 2.5m required. I added a plug to the mains end of the driver and connected to the strip as a dry run in the house and it lit up as expected. I have now fitted it outside. However on wiring up again to test each time I plug in the MCB trips. The strip doesn't light at all. I am totally puzzled - why would it work first time around with the strip lit and no tripping but now not at all? I have googled and most answers are talking about inrush current but these seems mainly connected to multiple drivers etc. Any other ideas what might be going on? thanks

Thanks everyone. Got it reset and will keep my fingers crossed that these are just teething troubles

For the second time in about 3 weeks we have this warning showing for low water pressure. The pump was installed in the summer and basically hasnt been used until about 4 weeks ago. We then got this warning. The installer came out and opened and shut the two black valve levers in the photos and it worked again. That was about 3 weeks ago. We have used the heating since then sporadically. Now the warning has come back. Surely this cant be normal!? The installer showed me how to reset the pressure but I cant remember now if I have to open and shut these valves in any particular order? Hopefully someone can advise? thanks

I am planning to instal an LED strip to light some recessed timber cladding by our drive. It would be good to be able to trigger the light on with a PIR sensor. Having done a quick google most of these look awful. I need one in black to match our cladding - any recommendations? thaks

I cant say I understand this. We have a 3phase supply so can instal PV up to 11.04kW (or something like that) on our existing G98 permission. At the moment we have about 6kW installed. If we installed a standard home battery does that mean it reduces what further PV we could instal because that would be news to me? Why would or is the position different using a car battery as the "home" battery?

Thats interesting @RobLe we have 6kw PV at the moment with the potential to go to 11kw are we have a 3phase supply. Can you explain how adding eg a Leaf would affect this? The thing is, Myenergi are indicating that their V2G charger will be affordable.

That's why Myenergi's post that they hope to bring such a charger out for sale next year is particularly interesting I think @Dillsue - https://www.myenergi.com/news/power-to-the-people-myenergi-starts-work-on-new-v2g-ev-charger/ Correct me if I am wrong but one of these + a £2000 old Nissan Leaf on your drive and you have a very high capacity/low budget home battery!?

Old Nissan leafs can do this cant they? Is the issue not that there are no two way EV chargers for sale? At least not yet. Myenergi's blog indicates they are developing one to release next year!

@Nickfromwales Ok this is food for thought thanks. A couple of questions from this. I think I get most of your steps but I don't think I will be able to do it this way. The main issue is the mouth - the powerfloated concrete slab is our final floor finish so we want to avoid cutting in to it in such a visible way. So basically the tray needs to go in once and for all. I appreciate that this does not make it any easier. You will see from my last post that this tray can also work with feet supporting the corners. It seems to me that if it is robust enough to work that way why do I need an tile adhesive under the main body of the tray? Can I ask why the trap might need support? Again from the Bette example if you were installing it with the type of height these legs would give would you need to support the trap? The problem I see with supporting the trap is that we need to get it positioned dead centre so when the tray goes down it mates up exactly. When I tried a dry fit it was out a bit but had enough wiggle to pull central. If I bed it down in advance some way (my plumber had suggested using sand) I think I will lose that fine adjustment!?

Thanks guys. From the Bette website I see this - https://www.my-bette.com/en/product/features-and-installation/bettelevel So I think thats confirmed that the tray is fine without any full bed support. I am going to go with my plan - Sikaflex under the rim bottoms!