markharro

Will need to bookmark this page- I have fitted a Geberit frame downstairs and thankfully managed not to balls it up! I have a Grohe frame to put in upstairs - bought it second hand so will need to hunt down the instructions online. There were really really useful videos for the Geberit frames which in no small measure allowed me as a numpty to fit it......I was hoping there would be similar for the Grohe. This has reminded me I will also need to source some extra parts eg the waste and water supply pipes will have been cut down to suit the previous install...can anyone recommend good source of spares?

Any input on my post above?

On the topic of levelling on timber, we have 22mm chipboard on the first floor and there is an issue where our landing butts onto our metal staircase top. Basically the board on one side is depressed by maybe around 6-7mm. Ultimately we are laying lino and the plan is to first fit plywood over the chipboard then an underlay and then the lino. The issue is how to level up at this junction. Its maybe no more than 1 square metre where the issue is. I understand the use of levelling compounds I think but can anyone guide me on these points - 1 Should I apply the levelling compound onto the chipboard before I put the ply down or should I screw down the ply first and level that and then add the underlay and then lino? I am thinking the former may be better? 2 This will be a high footfall area so I am a bit concerned the levelling mix may break down over time? Should I be? 3 Can anyone recommend a specific product to use? thanks

I'm (finishing) a house build too and I have now got a pretty decent collection of Makita 18V tools. Started with drill/driver then hopped to impact driver and of course lots of other things too. For heavy drilling into concrete I use a corded Screwfix Titan SDS drill which cost less than £100 I think and is night and day compared to the battery tools.

Hi @Iceverge what make of MVHR unit have you got? Interested how you learned how to self - maintain? Any good videos you can point to showing the procedures?

Whats the metal tape you have used here wrapped around the insulation and is it worth using?

Can I correct what someone has said about there being no 2 way chargers available atm. There is one - https://www.sigenergy.com/en/products/dc-charger I have been talking with an installer for the last few weeks about this product. The intriguing thing for me is that it appears to work (potentially) with cars that are not supposed to do 2 way charging like our own.

Very helpful replies thanks and think I know what I'm doing now. One more question however. An engineer pal has said to watch out for galling between stainless steel threads and nuts. For this static application can I use standard grease for this or something more specialist?

Thanks. I actually have a bit of 16mm threaded rod and it fits but maybe I want more wriggle room that I would get with 12mm to make sure I get both rollers in line? There is no guidance of the length of rod to bury in the concrete however? Also can anyone recommend a particular brand of resin? Do I need one of the tools shown to blown out the drill dust or will a vacuum do that?

Hi @Onoff @Conor too late now for the J bolts....the pad was placed ages ago. In any event here is the manual for the gate - it shows preparation for the fixings happening after the pad has gone in. No info on the diameter of bolt etc needed.

I need to bolt down a post and also 2 rollers being running gear for a cantilevered gate. what are the best bolts/fixings to use? thanks

I think it was a really important programme actually. Guy Martin is the modern day Fred Dibnah and people will sit up and take notice. Yes of course a 6 figure renovation is niche but the pre-fab terraces are the real takeaway message. We can and we should be building quality stuff like this and not the absolute C%$p that is the standard new build or indeed old build.

We have a beam in a wall between two rooms. I want to fill in the space with some form of insulation to contribute towards overall acoustic insulation between the the rooms. What would be best for this. I have some leftover PIR that would fit but I suspect I am better using some acoustic wool batt?

I get this too with the same set up so would be interested to hear of any fix

I have put this together to the stage shown - mirror stuck to MDF with LED strips down each long side of the MDF and wired into the driver - my question is whether there is any need for any sort of earthing of the mirror and if so how that is achieved? thanks